Discussion of Robin Garr's Exchange Pub review

[Robin Garr]

Theory of Relativity is demonstrated at Exchange Pub
LEO's Eats with Robin Garr



NA Exchange got a new name when it moved down the New Albany hill: Now it's The Exchange Pub + Kitchen. It got a new look, which is actually an old look, as it makes creative use of a historic building in New Albany's rapidly gentrifying downtown. But it didn't get new food, insists Chef Rick Adams, who swears that the menu he forged at the previous location -- including his signature shrimp and grits -- hasn't changed a bit.

You would have a hard time making some of the Exchange's regular customers believe that, though. Adams says one gentleman in particular is adamant that the "new" shrimp and grits is much better than the "old."

"I haven't changed a thing," the chef says, "but he's sure it tastes better now."

What's up with that? Maybe it's like this: When most of us first learned to eat with chopsticks, we realized Chinese food tasted much better that way.

When you enjoy a beautiful rose with your sweetie on an al fresco terrace in Provence, the wine tastes much better than the same cheap bottle does at home on the kitchen table. And fried fish rarely tastes as good as it does at a Lenten fish fry.

In short, excellent dining isn't just about the food: Stir in an inviting surrounding, add a touch of romance, a dash of nostalgia and a whiff of childhood comfort food, and even simple fare gets better.

I call this the Restaurant Theory of Relativity: E = MC2, or Eats equals Mood times Cooking squared. After a pleasant dinner in the attractive surroundings of the Exchange's new quarters the other night, I can testify that the theory fully applies.

The original NA Exchange, which opened just about two years ago, was pretty much a pearl hidden in a gnarly oyster: Legitimate "gastropub" cuisine was coming out of the kitchen, particularly after Adams' arrival last year. Its setting, though, was hardly memorable, an anonymous unit in the maze of suburban strip centers along Grant Line Road.

The new spot shares an old building with Feast BBQ, which opened last year. It was built in 1882 as the Sunny Side Saloon and Restaurant, according to the folks at Feast. Our server at the Exchange said its section was once the watering hole's stable. Now it's dominated by lofty walls of old red brick, a fine wooden bar with a massive bar back, and a Brobdingnagian ceiling fan 16 feet across made by Lexington's Big Ass Fans. I am not kidding about this.

Read the full review on LouisvilleHotBytes,
http://www.louisvillehotbytes.com/theor ... change-pub

And in LEO Weekly:
http://leoweekly.com/dining/theory-rela ... change-pub

The Exchange Pub + Kitchen
118 W. Main St.
New Albany
(812) 948-6501
http://facebook.com/exchangepubkitchen
Rating: 88

Ian told me that Robin had been in so I decided to wait to say anything about the New Exchange. I've been twice now and honestly, I'm just blown away by the place. While the space is familiar ala Doc Crows and Manny and Merle's in character; it's somehow a level above in my opinion.

I've had many meals at the previous location off Grantline and I'll readily attest to the quality of the cuisine on this menu. I'm pretty sure I noticed that the Ruben is back now which definitely made me smile and I'm a huge fan of the braised short ribs.

Donna especially likes the steak frites and we are looking forward to our next visit which will be on the 19th. We stopped by on Saturday around seven. The place was packed and we were told the wait was over an hour. Surprisingly, I was nothing but happy for Ian and his staff at the obvious popularity of the place.

We put our party of six on the list even though we had no intention of waiting that long. Our next quandry was which of the other excellent options within easy walking distance we would select. Two of us had been to Feast recently for lunch and the chicken salad and pulled pork as well as the beer selection were top notch. We also had a bourbon from what must be the most extensive stock this side of the river.

Even though it was a chilly night we reveled in boisterous company shouting out options as we walked over to Market St. We could indulge in the outstanding wood fired pizza, crab cakes, and wine at the River City Winery or fajitas and margueritas at the reenergized La Rosita. I've been dying to give the Frenchman's another go and maybe partake in some more bier de garde. Of course I'm at Bank St nearly every week and the cask ale they have on, a stoutly hopped wheat if you can believe it, goes down with the best qualities of an IPA and a hefe.

We ultimately decided to check out Habana Blues which several of us had been to before but not recently. We were seated immediately and a pitcher of premium Mojitos and the best Cuba Libre ever soon had us congratulating ourselves on our choice. The interior of this place is like an old house with multiple-connected rooms and soaring ceilings. I spotted Todd Antz at a table nearby and went over to see what he was eating. His newest version of the Keg is just around the corner so I figured he was a regular here.

Todd and his table mates shared their recommendations and wished us a good meal. That is what we had all agreed. The service was prompt and the meal was delisciosa. I had Habana Blue's version of the braised short ribs as I was Jonesing for the same at the Exchange. We didn't linger after dinner but started to head over to the Frenchman's for a drink when the phone rang. Our table at the Exchange was ready! We ducked in out of the cold a few minutes later and were seated in a separate room near the front of the restaurant. The VIP section I'm sure!

As we entered, a young man dressed in flannel with an acoutic guitar was tearing up Diamond's Sweet Caroline! Of course we all joined in the chorus as good Red Sox fans must. We ordered drinks and deserts and marveled that the place was still slammed. I drank Bell's excellent Smitten Ale paired outrageously with a bowl of Comfy Cow's Coconut icecream. A match made in heaven!

Ian came over and spoke with us for a while and as we were leaving insisted that we see the second floor room. If there is a better space in the Metro area, I'm not aware of it! Ian and his staff have truly exceeded all expectations with the new restaurant. When I said as much, Ian said he was hurt that I would say so. Ian it was not that I didn't expect great things from you, it was just that my imagination was not equal to what you have achieved!

Ian told me that Robin had been in so I decided to wait to say anything about the New Exchange. I've been twice now and honestly, I'm just blown away by the place. While the space is familiar ala Doc Crows and Manny and Merle's in character; it's somehow a level above in my opinion...

Ian came over and spoke with us for a while and as we were leaving insisted that we see the second floor room. If there is a better space in the Metro area, I'm not aware of it! Ian and his staff have truly exceeded all expectations with the new restaurant. When I said as much, Ian said he was hurt that I would say so. Ian it was not that I didn't expect great things from you, it was just that my imagination was not equal to what you have achieved!

I agree; what Ian, Chef Adams, Steve Resch (the building contractor) and the Exchange staff have done with in the space is fantastic to say the least. We could not ask for a better neighbor and we are so happy to have them downtown and especially next-door.

Thank you for the kind words as well Shane. New Albany is Louisville's best borough. I had the chance to dine at the new Dragon Kings Daughter tonight in New Albany and they have exceeded their Bardstown Rd. location as well. New Albany is hopping and we love it.

I'm just blown away by the place. While the space is familiar ala Doc Crows and Manny and Merle's in character; it's somehow a level above in my opinion.

Yeah, I thought the same thing when I walked in. It looks pretty nice in there. Very impressive.

Congrats to Ian, Rick and all at the Exchange. Well done!!

I absolutely love the new location. We find ourselves there often now. Although, I do sort of stand out front and drool between it and Feast.

There are times lately when I'm compelled to pinch myself as a reminder that this is New Albany we're describing. I always thought it could be done. I'd be lying if I said I knew it could be done. I'm just delighted that it's getting done. There still is much to do, but thanks to all these fine folks who've invested time and money in making their dreams reality, we're making progress.

The Right Bank ...

Shane, if you don't mind, I'd like to reprint your thoughts above.

Of course Roger, I'm always gratified if anyone cares what I think. Your mention of a progressive dinner in New Albany seems so obviously desirable! I really hope something comes of it but even if it's never an organized event, some of us will do it none the less. Cheers!

Also, your thoughts regarding Forecastle and local beer seem a no-brainer as well. I wonder if something like the CAMRA movement might eventually form in this country. There is nothing better than fresh beer. When I returned from the UK I assumed that I'd had my last pint of real beer. I couldn't have been more wrong about that.

The Europeans might not know shit about how to implement a proper toilet in a pub but they sure as hell understand what drinking beer is all about. I can't help but think that we here are on track to arrive at that epiphany as well.

Someone said to me today that they were surprised that I hadn't returned to Europe to visit my son if not for the beer. I said that I wanted desperately to visit my son in Germany but I could get all the good beer I'd ever want right here. Thanks to people like you and other local brewers there is no need for anyone to go anywhere to get great beer!