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Robin Garr

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Couvillion is tres bon, I garontee.

by Robin Garr » Wed May 30, 2018 9:31 am

Couvillion is tres bon, I garontee.

LEO's Eats with Robin Garr

Couvillion’s namesake catfish couvillion.
Image

I really like Couvillion. I like the Cajun-country catfish dish, and I like the new Germantown restaurant. I can hardly wait to tell you about this. But first: What the hell is a Couvillion, and how do you even say it?

Okay, then. Couvillion (“coo-vee-ohn”) is a delicious Cajun fish stew made with a rich, thick roux, usually built on catfish and served with rice. It’s a Cajun variation on the French court-bouillon (“koor-boo-yawn"), which is a thin fish sauce that’s arguably more refined but probably not as tasty or filling.

Couvillion the restaurant, pronounced just the same way, occupies the stylish art-deco building just off Goss Avenue that previously housed Finn’s Southern Kitchen. Owner and Chef Paul Skulas came over from Portage House to open the new spot. And couvillion is a signature dish on the Couvillion menu.

But we’re getting ahead of ourselves. Let’s back up and take a look at the charming building, originally the office for the adjacent 1880s-era Louisville Cotton Mill buildings, long a popular antique mall now reborn as the Germantown Mill Lofts condos.

Finn’s had thoroughly renovated the facility, but Couvillion spent two months kicking the style up another notch. Blond wood sections contrast with pretty blue-gray walls, highlighted by local artist Whitney Carpenter’s bold outsider art. Sturdy wood tables, heavy wood-and-metal chairs (with flat, hard seats) and wooden floors build a hard-edged environment that can amplify a happy roar.

A short but thoughtful drinks selection that makes up for brevity with interesting selections. I couldn’t resist a Roots’n’Boots cocktail ($8), a savory mix of dark rum with cane syrup and a shot of root beer, its rich flavors nicely heightened by a couple of chunks of star anise marinating in the drink. Mary, intrigued by the presence of Ale-8-One ($2.25) on the menu, ordered her first can ever and gave thumbs-up to its sweet ginger-ale flavor.

The menu picks up the Southern theme that’s been all too prevalent in this not-so-Southern burg in recent years, but to its credit, it focuses not on the Confederate South but the Cajun and Creole flavors of New Orleans and Acadiana, Cajun country. ...


Read the full review on LouisvilleHotBytes,
http://www.louisvillehotbytes.com/couvi ... n-garontee

You'll also find this review in LEO Weekly’s Food & Drink section today.
http://www.leoweekly.com/category/food-drink/

Couvillion
1318 McHenry St.
365-1813
http://eatcouvillion.com
https://facebook.com/eatCouvillion
https://instagram.com/eatcouvillion

Robin Garr's rating: 93 points

Noise level: Conversation is easy until a louder blues ballad comes over the sound system. We didn’t mind that. (Average sound level 71-76 dB, with bounces to 84.)

Accessibility: The historic building’s main entrance is barred to wheelchair users and others with limited mobility by a series of steps. Access is possible via an unmarked side entrance.
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RonnieD

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Re: Couvillion is tres bon, I garontee.

by RonnieD » Wed May 30, 2018 10:30 am

This is very exciting! Can't wait to check them out! That Green Gumbo looks wonderful!
Ronnie Dingman
Chef Consultant
The Farm
La Center, KY
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Robin Garr

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Re: Couvillion is tres bon, I garontee.

by Robin Garr » Wed May 30, 2018 10:34 am

I really liked it a lot. It's not just the interesting food, it's that the kitchen really knows how to put it together so the flavors sing in harmony. That's not as commonplace as I wish it was.
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Leah S

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Re: Couvillion is tres bon, I garontee.

by Leah S » Wed Jun 06, 2018 9:46 am

We went Monday evening (1/2 price wine!) and it was truly excellent. Had the Gumbo Z'Herbes, cauliflower and green bean salad.
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Dan E

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Re: Couvillion is tres bon, I garontee.

by Dan E » Fri Oct 11, 2019 8:09 am

Just wanted to bump this, as Couvillion is one of my favorite places to eat. I worry sometimes because it is never crowded when I go, but then, I typically go for a late lunch on a Saturday, which I imagine isn't its busiest time.

Robin summarizes it well, but I think the well-composed modern cajun cuisine is relatively rare in Louisville, and they do it the best, with no close competitors.

I often find myself WANTING to like Gumbo more than I do, but their version is always perfect. The duck creole may be my favorite dish there, as the rich tomato-based sauce is awesome. The ribs are long-braised and flash-fried, with a tangy vinegar sauce and have a great texture every time. The cheese-dusted pork rinds are a satisfying starter and always pair well with the alcoholic beverage of your choice.

The brunch menu is strong too, with the dirty rice and eggs(my wife's go-to) immediately springing to mind. The cocktail list is short, but they always have intriguing and well-made options.

The service has always been strong, and I enjoy the patio on a nice day.

Check it out if you haven't already
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Robin Garr

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Re: Couvillion is tres bon, I garontee.

by Robin Garr » Fri Oct 11, 2019 8:30 am

Dan E wrote:Check it out if you haven't already

Good advice, Dan. It's definitely one of my top ten. Thanks for the testimony!
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Steve Eslinger

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Re: Couvillion is tres bon, I garontee.

by Steve Eslinger » Fri Oct 11, 2019 9:33 am

I love the place and I too wished they would be a little busier. Their brunch menu is great and that’s coming from someone who is not a big bruncher. And I can’t eat there without ordering a cup of their ham and bean soup (as opposed to bean and ham soup). I’ve also loved all of their gumbo iterations.

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