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Gayle DeM

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For Justin Hammond and Holly C - Sonoma and Yosemite

by Gayle DeM » Wed Apr 08, 2009 10:36 pm

Like Robin and Linda C, I much prefer Sonoma County to Napa County. Sonoma is so much more of a relaxing visit than Napa. I have been to Sonoma at least every other year for the past twenty-five years. (I did enjoy Napa to some extent twenty-five years ago, but when I went six years ago I thought it so people-filled if made me feel like I was in Myrtle Beach or Gatlinburg. I have vowed never to go back, unless I have the opportunity to eat at the French Laundry.) While I have always enjoyed Sonoma County North (Geyserville and Healdsburg), if I am limited in time I prefer the Russian River/West County area (Forestville, Freestone, Guerneville, Russian River, Sebastopol and more).

Although if you drive from SF to Jenner or Bodega Bay via Petaluma the drive will be less than two hours, I much prefer to drive Coast Highway One because I’m an ocean lover big time. Driving up the Coast Hwy, one passes Muir Beach which offers both a regular beach and a nude beach. Up the way a little further is Stinson Beach (regular only). Around Stinson Beach is the entrance to Muir Woods National Monument with its spectacular grove of giant coast redwoods. Parking is limited so it is best to get there as early as possible. http://www.nps.gov/muwo/index.htm

Now back to Sonoma wine country: I love the village of Bodega Bay. It has two restaurants that have fish markets: Lucas Wharf Restaurant and Bar and Tides Wharf & Restaurant. The Lucas Wharf is the more casual of the two and is my preferred place for lunch when I am there. You can also visit the Porter School house of Alfred Hitchcock’s The Birds fame. For dinner I love to drive up to Jenner, a little burg located where the Russian River meets the Pacific Ocean. The vistas along the way are amazing. I head straight for the River’s End http://www.ilovesunsets.com/home.html This is the place if you want fresh local halibut and/or Dungeness crab. My favorite splurge is the crab tasting menu – worth every penny and dollar, especially if you are a fan of Dungeness crab. But when money is tight, I am most happy sitting at the deck off the bar, sipping wine and enjoying the view. River’s End also has limited lodging that is definitely honeymoon worth.

When I leave Jenner, I head back to Bodega Bay and take the Bodega Highway toward Sebastopol. Just outside of Freestone is Wild Flour Bread, a wonderful artisan bakery with a brick oven. http://www.wildflourbread.com/ It’s amazing. They only sell at the bakery, no wholesale, no shipping. If I have spent the night in Jenner or Bodega Bay I stop for sticky buns or scones. You also could take River Rd. from Jenner to Guerneville. Your other option is to continue up the Coast Hwy. to Mendocino. Neither is a bad option.

My favorite winery to visit in this area are Russian River Vineyards http://www.russianrivervineyards.com/contact.htm You need to turn off the Bodega Hwy. and go towards Forestville. RRV has the only winery-based restaurant in the Russian River Valley, but it is no longer open for lunch. So if I had spent the night in Jenner, I would just stop to admire the grounds (it is one of the oldest in the area) and stop at the tasting room (11:30 am. to 4:30 pm.) and go on my way. In my personal opinion, the wine was better when the place was owned by the Topolos brothers and was known as Topolos Winery. But I still like to visit it because it is such a beautiful place.

If you choose to continue to Sonoma North, I definitely agree with Linda’s recommendation of Manzanitas. My favourite winery in this area is the Hop Kiln Winery. http://www.hopkilnwinery.com/index.asp I love it for the beauty of the old copper hop kilns and the beauty of the ancient artichoke plants that have reached tree size and are overwhelming when in bloom (and that well may be late May) as well as for the wine. (I am going to have to get up to Geyserville next trip so I can taste that Diavolana pizza.)

Whether you go to Sonoma or Napa, Linda’s suggestion about avoiding the weekend is right on!

Finally, Justin, you are so lucky to be visiting Yosemite in late May which is the peak time of snow melt which means the falls should be near their fullest. When I visit Yosemite I always like to start off with the Valley Floor tour, led by a ranger. That way I am quickly brought up to date about what is open, closed, at peak, past peak, etc. and I get a sense of the layout. You may want to go slightly south of the park and visit the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoia, especially if you previously visited Muir Woods. That way you can compare the difference between the redwoods and the sequoia. Finally, I can’t imagine visiting Yosemite without dining at the Ahwahnee, the great Art Deco/Arts and Craft hotel. The architecture is totally stunning. Be warned that the dining room is pricey, I usually do breakfast, but no matter when you eat there, you will need a reservation.
"I didn't fight my way to the top of the food chain to be a vegetarian" -Erma Bombeck
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JustinHammond

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Re: For Justin Hammond and Holly C - Sonoma and Yosemite

by JustinHammond » Thu Apr 09, 2009 8:53 pm

Thanks so much.

We have limited time in the Sonoma/Napa area and you tips will help us make the most of out time. We will try our best to check out the vineyards you suggested. Have you by chance toured the Del Dotto caves(http://www.deldottovineyards.com/catego ... egoryID=49)? The pictures look amazing and I am having a hard time not making a reservation.
"The idea is to eat well and not die from it-for the simple reason that that would be the end of your eating." - Jim Harrison

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Gayle DeM

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Re: For Justin Hammond and Holly C - Sonoma and Yosemite

by Gayle DeM » Thu Apr 09, 2009 11:49 pm

Justin, no, I haven't been to St. Helena. It does look intriguing. :) I'll wait for your recommendation, but I could easily be talked into checking it out on my next visit to wine country. It looks like you could go straight from Jenner to St. Helena via Guerneville and Fulton or from Bodega Bay to St. Helena via Sebastopol, Santa Rosa and Fulton. Neither would be a super highway. LOL but the scenery should be fantastic. I think I'd take the former because the drive through Santa Rosa is not so pretty. St. Helena is north enough in Napa that I think you would miss most of Napa's crowds.

I'm sorry but I forgot to put this in my earlier post. However, when in San Francisco I always have to do breakfast at least once at Taylor Street Coffee Shop. (375 Taylor Street) I found this place three years ago, and now I have to return every time I'm in town. From the outside it's not much to look at: a little hole-in-the-wall place, maybe four four-tops and five two-tops, with retro photos of past icons like Marilyn M and Jimmy D. BUT the breakfasts are something else. And very reasonable! I'm especially fond of one of their specials called the "Southern Scramble" which comes with hash browns and fruit for $8.95 at last visit. (Hadn't raised their priceces in over a year!) Sure beats breakfast at the huge Hilton that is just down the street. Bonus: in case you sleep in, they do breakfast all day or until they close at three?/four? Personally, I think their breakfasts are as good or better than our own Toast, Lynn's, Wild Eggs or North End! :)

If I think of more, I'll let you know. I plan on heading out to SF at the end of May myself and then up to Puget Sound this time.
"I didn't fight my way to the top of the food chain to be a vegetarian" -Erma Bombeck

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