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Hitting the road? Ask questions about dining out anywhere, and post your trip reports here!

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Postby Carol C » Thu Aug 16, 2012 6:39 pm

We have good friends who are going to Paris in September and would love some recommendations on eating in Paris! They are staying on the edge of the 5th Arrondissement close to the 6th and the Luxembourg Gardens area. Places that the locals frequent would be of great interest to them--more local, bistro type places. It has been a number of years since we have been in that area, so we are hoping you all can provide some recommendations. Also, they are willing to venture out of that area for any great places! Thanks so much for any help!
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Re: Paris

Postby GaryF » Thu Aug 16, 2012 10:29 pm

Carol, it's been a while since I've been to Paris and I know most of my favorites have closed or are no longer up to par.
However, I am assured by recent travellers that my favorite patisserie, Gerard Mulot at 76 rue du Seine is still one of the best in the city- and it's very near the Luxemburg Palace. It actually supplies the French senate, which meets in the palace, their daily croissants.

http://www.gerard-mulot.com/paris/actua ... -mulot.php
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Re: Paris

Postby Ken B » Mon Aug 20, 2012 11:20 am

This from an email I sent to a friend some years back but recent Internet searches (my sister was in Paris not long ago) found these venues still extant. We stayed in the 5 th so most of these places are in or easily accessible from there. You should note the addresses, there is another Jardin des Pates somewhere further out in Paris - an unrelated restaurant. I should also add if there is one place I would do almostanything to get into it is L'Astrance but it's a hard ticket to get...

Le Jardin des Pates 4, rue Lacepede in the 5th.  This
was probably our favorite meal in Paris, though far
from the most extravagant.  We probably liked it
because it reminded us of a place we might go to on a weeknight here  It is a small restaurant that serves very simple
fare, with vegetables and herbs grown in their own
garden (we were there in the spring, I'm not sure what
they do during the colder months).  For plat's they
serve only fresh pastas, made in house, with a special
sauce matched to each pasta.  I had a chestnut flour
pasta with creamy duck sauce and Kristen had rye flour
pasta with fresh zuccini from the garden, lardons and
gruyere.  In addition to dessert, we finished our meal
with an interesting thyme flavored liquor/digestif
called Farigoule, which I recommend.

A friend recommended Au Bon Saint-Pourcain 10 bis, rue Servandoni in the 5th, in
a litle more out of the way corner.  It's a small
family run bistro style place.  There's maybe 8 tables
in the whole place, so you'll need a reservation even
on a weeknight.  No one there really speaks much
English (though both the waitress & chef speak some),
nor is anything translated on the menu.  But for
traditional simple French in a really charming place,
this was our favorite.  We had excellent escargot
there, and I had the tete de veau, which is basically
the boiled head of a calf, Kristen had a nice beef and
olive stew, and we finished with the best creme brulee
of my life.  We also got a nice bottle of burgundy
which I think was from the region where the family
that runs the place is from, Irancy, which I've never
seen in the states,

We needed a break from all the butter, cheese and
steak, so decided to have Moroccan one night, at Au
P'tit Cahou 39, boulevard Saint Marcel on the border
between the 5th and the 13th.  I had a nice tagine of
chicken, bananas and cinnamon, Kristen had an amazing
7 vegetable couscous.  Up the street at  34 boulevard
Saint Marcel in the 5th is Au Co Co de Mer, a
Seychelles restaurant that has a room with sand on the
floor made out to look like the beach in the
Seychelles.  We did not eat there, but poked our head
in as we walked past, it looked quite nice, and got
some very nice write ups in guides we trust.  

Our first meal in Paris was at a small traditional
brasserie in the 6th called Fernand, 13 rue Guisarde.
Another smallish (but not as small as Au Bon
Saint-Porcain) place, that feels like being
transported back in time.  It's a really nice palce in
a neighborhood full of more mediocre touristy places.

If you're at or by the Pompidou, there is a nice cafe
in the Marais called Les Philosophes, and a sister
cafe up the street called Au Petit Fer A Cheval, both
owned by the same guy, who runs a number of places in
the Marais.  They're both cute, a good place to get a
cup of coffee to warm up, or a light meal (we had
lunch at Philosophes and a couple of coffees at
Cheval).  They're a couple of doors apart: 28 & 30 rue
Vielle du Temple.  Across the street from Cheval is a
nice small wine bar (and bookshop) called  La Belle
Hortense.  You could spend a great afternoon lounging
around any or all three.

The neighborhood wine bar by the opera house I told
you about is Le Baron Bouge, in the 12th on 1 rue
Theophile-Roussel.  Crowded and loud and packed with
locals, with loads of great wines by the glass, many
of which would be difficult to get here.  I also had a
good charcuterie plate there with a really great duck
terrine andouillette.
The Wine Market
1200 Bardstown Road, Louisville, KY
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Ken B
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Re: Paris

Postby Robin Garr » Mon Aug 20, 2012 11:48 am

Carol, Mary and I loved this restaurant on a visit a few years back. Specializes in seafood and fish, as the name suggests, and I'd call it a "nice" neighborhood place. It's in the 14th, I think, not too far from the Luxembourg Gardens in Montparnasse:

Vin et Marée
108 Avenue du Maine
+33 1 43 20 29 50

Here's a nice little place in the 6th, just off the west side of the gardens, good for lunch and world-class chocolates:

Christian Constant
37 rue Assas
01 53 63 15 15
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Re: Paris

Postby Carol C » Mon Aug 20, 2012 5:59 pm

Thanks so much Gary, Ken and Robin for your responses. Makes me wish we were going! I will pass on the information and I certainly appreciate all the recommendations. Again, thanks.
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