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Early look: Toronto Mexican Deli

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Robin Garr

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Early look: Toronto Mexican Deli

by Robin Garr » Sat Apr 03, 2010 10:18 am

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The latest arrival in the little cottage at 2900 Brownsboro Road (originally Heitzman's bakery, later the first incarnation of Melillo's and later of Bourbon Bros BBQ) is worth a closer look. The basic menu offers a mix of American diner-style fare (burgers, pancakes, biscuits and gravy, a Reuben) and simple Mexican fare (burritos, eggs with chorizo (pictured), a "Mexican hoagie." Take awed note of the Starving Roofer Omelet ($6.95), a four-egg omelet with onions, peppers and meat.

But slow down, look around, check the blackboard, engage Chef Rafael in conversation, and you'll discover Mexican delights that don't show on the menu. Quezadillas, fajitas, Mexican-style tacos. Chef Rafael is not just another short-order cook. He's worked around town at Le Gallo Rosso, country clubs, some chain kitchens including Bonefish, Smokey Bones and Chili's, and his creativity shows best in his daily specials. He roasts his own beef, pork, chicken and sometimes lamb. Today he's roasting ribs from a local pig he got from a friend's Indiana farm and butchered himself. If you're around Crescent Hill for the Easter Parade, you might consider popping over for lunch. Don't tarry, though ... they're open only for breakfast and lunch Mon-Sat, slosing at 2 p.m. weekdays and 3 p.m Saturdays.

Rafael does a lot of takeout business, but there are a half-dozen two-top tables, and if you happen by at a quiet time, chances are the chef will come out and engage you in conversation.

This little place has seen quite a string of short-lived eateries, but I hope this one will last. Crescent Hill needs a taqueria of its own!
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Sally M

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Re: Early look: Toronto Mexican Deli

by Sally M » Sun Apr 04, 2010 1:31 pm

Is the coffee any good, or is it ordinary and/or nondescript? "Good" is my requirement of a breakfast, or early-morning spot.

Any idea what time he opens?

My colleague and I really enjoyed Rafael's hospitality at Le Gallo Rosso, esp. his dessert of berries and zabaglione (sabayon). This was back when Le Gallo Rosso was a little gem, bring your own wine, and not yet on most diners' radars!

It will be fun to round her up and pop in on him one morning.
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Re: Early look: Toronto Mexican Deli

by Robin Garr » Sun Apr 04, 2010 4:56 pm

Sally M wrote:Is the coffee any good, or is it ordinary and/or nondescript? "Good" is my requirement of a breakfast, or early-morning spot.

Any idea what time he opens? ...

Sally, I usually drink espresso and stuff at Heine's, so I may not be the best judge of a regular cup. He said the coffee was Columbian, and it tasted good to me. It didn't come from a big urn but a restaurant-size Mr. Coffee kind of thing, I think.

It's open VERY early - 6am M-F, 5am Sat - but be aware it's a one-man shop. Rafael had a flat tire Friday morning and couldn't get there, so the plays stayed closed until he could get in. Normally, though, he likes to serve Mexican roofers before they go to work, so he's there very early.

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