by Robin Garr » Tue Jan 26, 2010 12:25 pm
As Marty continues to work for Gannett's editors, he seems to be developing what may have already been a natural preference to be kind - not that there's anything the matter with that - and it takes some parsing of his increasingly professorial review style to figure out what he didn't like.
Based on my own opinions. though, I think you'll find the secret to its mid-range point rating here:
Owner Phat Le's cuisine focuses on refined, risk-averse, Americanized takes on Vietnamese (the Café Mimosa side of the menu) and Chinese cuisine (The Egg Roll Machine); you won't find strange organ meats on your plate or rustic sauces infused with exotic spices.
You will, however, find very good examples of the dishes that became staples of American ethnic cuisine many decades ago.
This strikes me as a genteel way of saying "well-made, unadventurous and boring.'