by Stephen D » Thu Nov 19, 2009 9:41 pm
I remember Ethan and I having that dish the first time we hung out together. Can you imagine the scene? Two of us, alone in the place during 'business decline,' sitting right in front of the kitchen window. Taking notes, so to speak...
There is a tone chefs tend to take when they are evaluating another's (or their own) work. The gaze never leaves the plate. Every statement becomes minimized. There is an absolute lack of emotion in vocal tones. Even the most egregious of mistakes and triumphant of successes are recognized and passed over like one was reading off a checklist.
I still remember Ethan posing the question (that he already knew the answer to,) 'where do you think this comes from?' I lifted my leg above the table surface and pointed to Achilles, unable to resist the urge to be irreverent in an empty restaurant. Unfazed, he nodded and turned back to the matter at hand: analyzing and learning from what this chef was teaching on the plate.
It was during this experience that I had an epiphany regarding Asian cuisines, in general: Many times, in an effort to use soy sauce as a substitute for salt, they miss out on the minerality that this ingredient provides. I felt that dish would have gone from a 9 to a 10 with this addition. What do you think?