The Value of Service

Enough has been written about what FOH professionals should be paid. I would like to take just a moment to prostetalize about what a top-tier pro brings to the table, for both the restaurant and the guest. I do hope you enjoy my views. If you would like to see my FOH philosophies in action, I encourage you to dine at Varanese. They place great value on their staff and believe in the kindness principle. Hospitality happens everyday, habitually... I am proud to count myself an alumni of this house, especially for this reason.

I would like to begin by asking you, the reader, the last time you experienced true hospitality- that act of kindness that wasn't part of the person's job. It doesn't have to be a restaurant experience. It could be that convenience store clerk that asked you about your kid, or the DMV clerk that went out of her way to make that experience a bit quicker and livelier. Or your neighbor that took the liberty to blow the leaves out of your side-yard into the street for pickup. Now really think about how that single act made you feel about that person and your loyalty to them. I'd bet you would probably go out of your way to visit that gas-station, hope to get that clerk on your next visit, or take the time to weed-eat their side of the side-yard.

Great service programs instill this attitude in their guests and this is, I think, the primary key to success in our business. The second key is low employee turnover. Happy staffs produce happy guests. Trust me, a great deal of time/money is spent not just on initial training, but on continued development. If FOH staff turns every 6 months, then the new guard knows nothing about the seminar that (x) winemaker gave 9 months ago.

As was said, the professional servers follow the money. The ones that care, deeply. The ones that create business, reputation and stability. If these people are taken care of, then the floor can pretty much run itself. Just as in the kitchen. A solid, devoted group can sail through the toughest of tides.

Although it's been a minute since I have been there, I know that I can go to Varanese and see Chris, Ed and Levi holding it down. Of course they have brought on some great new talent (a previous liquor salesperson, an ex-owner of a wine bar and a previous bar manager, off the top of my head.)This new talent didn't present themselves willy-nilly. These are serious professionals that want to be a part of something great. It all began with the core. I'd be willing to bet that you could ask your server a fairly deep question like,' Why are some wines unfiltered?' and even if they didn't have the answer, there are 2 others that do and would love to come and chat with you about it, time willing. This kind of professionalism only comes from the management making sure that their people can pay their bills... and the guests taking care of the people that take care of them. Yeah, it's a family structure, tight and supportive, but I promise all that goes out the window if the collectors come calling...

So underestimate the value of service all you want, but I encourage you to visit your favorite restaurant and ask the owner about the value of service. Bar none, they will all tell you the key to success is keeping the good ones around. Trust me, you can love what you do, but if your car gets repoed, or you have to work 60 hours a week to make a wage under poverty level, well it slaps all the joy out of the task. I'm not for servers making some crazy income, but I am for servers making 35,000/yr for a full time commitment (at least.)

Let's be serious here. When I started in this industry in the mid 80's, servers were paid 2.13/hr. I can't tell you how many times the minimum wage has been raised, or how many 'cost-of-living' raises congress has given itself. I can tell you that servers still get paid 2.13/hr. We all know that server who says they make $900/wk, every week. I am here to tell you they are telling a fish tale. I've seen it too many times.

It's easy to discount the value of service- everyone has a story about the worst and best, so we all have an opinion on the subject. I strongly believe that this is not only the most under-appreciated group in the house, but that it is on par with kitchen staff as far as success goes.

I suppose I'll step down off my soapbox now...

So, if patrons could choose between having a server or self service at a nice place like Varnese how would that go over? Say you could go in, place your order at a cashier, get your own drink, take a table number and sit down and wait for someone to run your food out.

If you could choose having a server or no server what would you choose? I think many would take advantage of this option. Others would choose to have a server.

Or how about a "robotic" restaurant like this one in Germany...

ABC News, robotic restaurant, Nuremberg Germany
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b79pwb6Wlsc&NR=1

So, if patrons could choose between having a server or self service at a nice place like Varnese how would that go over? Say you could go in, place your order at a cashier, get your own drink, take a table number and sit down and wait for someone to run your food out.

If you could choose having a server or no server what would you choose? I think many would take advantage of this option. Others would choose to have a server.

Or how about a "robotic" restaurant like this one in Germany...

ABC News, robotic restaurant, Nuremberg Germany
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b79pwb6Wlsc&NR=1

Great point, I'll go with the self serve option.

You should really be asking yourself this: Why do I leave the house in the name of dining to begin with?

I'd bet your first response wouldn't be: to be the first one at the vending machine.

You are apt in insinuation, though: My philosophy on this matter depends upon the ideal that people go out to eat because they want to be cared for. Without that premise I have nothing.Then it all becomes vending machines....

For the expertise of the chef and some high quality food? We are not all chefs. And you can't get great food out of a vending machine.

I would love having the option of having great food without having to interact with a server. I don't need to be cared for.

I eat out when I am just too tired to cook. I like a server when I've been serving others all day and I'm just too ragged to think. I'd like an automated system on those days I've got work/reading to do while I eat and I don't want to be interrupted.

I eat out for great food, new dishes, cost, and expertise. I love sushi, but I don't want to attempt to make it. I don't want to have to buy 3-5 types of fish, make rice, and learn to roll. I can't afford or find some of the ingredients that restaurants can get their hands on, but I can eat them when dining out(Truffles, Kobe Beef,Uni).

I don't need or want to be cared for. The super server makes me uncomfortable. The crumb comb is the dumbest item in a restaurant. Oh god, I have crumbs on my table, my experience is ruined. Give me a break! Don't pull out my chair, open my menu, unfold/refold my napkin, or fill my water glass after every sip. I'm not a helpless baby and don't need treated like one.

My best meals/restaurant experiences have not been in places with the superb service. They have been in dives, bars, hole in the walls, where the service is basic and relaxed. I ate at a "bar" in the Bahamas where the floor was sand and the server was the bartender. I ate at this place 5 times in a week, not because the service was outstanding, but the food and atmosphere were awesome, and the service was good enough.

I just don't get people who want treated like royalty when dining out. Treat me as your equal and I'll do the same.

I would love having the option of having great food without having to interact with a server. I don't need to be cared for.

Then allow me to take the time to apologize for my insolence. By all means, excuse me for suggesting such a radical notion...

Seriously, you have spoken the obvious truth and understand exactly why people spend upwards of 32.50 a person for a meal.

I still must adhere to what I know to be the truth: service is as important as cuisine and cocktails. You would be hard -pressed to tell me otherwise. I've seen it in action, I know this to be the case. I have no more for you and I'm sorry if you don't feel me on this...

/shrug

I eat out for great food, new dishes, cost, and expertise. I love sushi, but I don't want to attempt to make it. I don't want to have to buy 3-5 types of fish, make rice, and learn to roll. I can't afford or find some of the ingredients that restaurants can get their hands on, but I can eat them when dining out(Truffles, Kobe Beef,Uni).

I don't need or want to be cared for. The super server makes me uncomfortable. The crumb comb is the dumbest item in a restaurant. Oh god, I have crumbs on my table, my experience is ruined. Give me a break! Don't pull out my chair, open my menu, unfold/refold my napkin, or fill my water glass after every sip. I'm not a helpless baby and don't need treated like one.

My best meals/restaurant experiences have not been in places with the superb service. They have been in dives, bars, hole in the walls, where the service is basic and relaxed. I ate at a "bar" in the Bahamas where the floor was sand and the server was the bartender. I ate at this place 5 times in a week, not because the service was outstanding, but the food and atmosphere were awesome, and the service was good enough.

I just don't get people who want treated like royalty when dining out. Treat me as your equal and I'll do the same.

Huh?

Don't think for a moment I believe great service depends upon a tablecloth. At that sandy place, if that (newly-hired) server made the common mistakes we all make when entering a new job, you certainly wouldn't be referencing that experience here.

Let's be serious here. When I started in this industry in the mid 80's, servers were paid 2.13/hr. I can't tell you how many times the minimum wage has been raised, or how many 'cost-of-living' raises congress has given itself. I can tell you that servers still get paid 2.13/hr. We all know that server who says they make $900/wk, every week. I am here to tell you they are telling a fish tale. I've seen it too many times.

You're correct the minimum for servers has not increased but, the average cost of a meal has increased drastically. Also there has been a movement to raise the norm for tipping from 15% to 18% or even 20%. Most restaurants at least charged 18% for large parties. This more than offsets the fact that the minimum wage for servers didn't increase. All it means is servers have to work hard enough so that people appreciate them.

As for servers making $900 per week, I know several that make considerably more than that. It just depends on where you work and how you work!

I eat out for great food, new dishes, cost, and expertise. I love sushi, but I don't want to attempt to make it. I don't want to have to buy 3-5 types of fish, make rice, and learn to roll. I can't afford or find some of the ingredients that restaurants can get their hands on, but I can eat them when dining out(Truffles, Kobe Beef,Uni).

I don't need or want to be cared for. The super server makes me uncomfortable. The crumb comb is the dumbest item in a restaurant. Oh god, I have crumbs on my table, my experience is ruined. Give me a break! Don't pull out my chair, open my menu, unfold/refold my napkin, or fill my water glass after every sip. I'm not a helpless baby and don't need treated like one.

My best meals/restaurant experiences have not been in places with the superb service. They have been in dives, bars, hole in the walls, where the service is basic and relaxed. I ate at a "bar" in the Bahamas where the floor was sand and the server was the bartender. I ate at this place 5 times in a week, not because the service was outstanding, but the food and atmosphere were awesome, and the service was good enough.

I just don't get people who want treated like royalty when dining out. Treat me as your equal and I'll do the same.

Huh?

Don't think for a moment I believe great service depends upon a tablecloth. At that sandy place, if that (newly-hired) server made the common mistakes we all make when entering a new job, you certainly wouldn't be referencing that experience here.

I'm saying the quality of the food is much more important than service. I'll continue to go back to a place where the food is great and the service is so so. I won't continue to go back to a place where the service is fantastic and the food is so so.

My interaction with my server is of two people existing in the same community. My interaction is that of someone who wants to show respect for and value toward the work that person is doing. My interaction is to acknowledge the necessary role the server plays in the relationship between the kitchen, my food, and my enjoyment of that food.

Now I have my issues with overly-chatty servers - particularly those servers who "intrude" into my conversations. So while I say "two people existing in the same community," I don't mean I want to get all 'friendly" with the server, unless it's a server I interact with on a regular basis. But I do value the social knowledge a server can provide me - a drink recommendation, an entree recommendation, a local coffee shop recommendation, an after-dinner activity suggestion. I ask and hope they will answer because we are two people existing in the same community.

I don't need a server to "take care of me" in the way other people have described this idea. But I do need them to respect my time, respect my food, try their best to provide me with an enjoyable experience, etc. In my current work, I am thinking alot about "an ethic of care," which, most broadly, is to view another person as a human being. I think servers are too often viewed as a cog in a system, a lesser, a hired person. To view them as human, of value and worthy of respect, is to attempt to value the work they are doing - and to generously consider that they are trying their best to do this work.

The value of good service is priceless as good service is one of the two factors most influencing my enjoyment factor (good food being the other factor). Good service, though, will never be highly valued until we want to believe that 1)not just anyone can do the job, 2)that the job requires "higher order" brain processing; and 3) that it can be a profession, that we should want it to be a profession for those good servers who like that line of work and that such folks should be compensated adequately/appropriately.

Nice post Stephen! Unfortunately I think it's falling on some deaf ears. Saving money and avoiding human interaction seem to be taking priority over the desire for the superior service you have described. Why don't we just slap a drive thru on Corbett's and be done with it?

I still must adhere to what I know to be the truth: service is as important as cuisine and cocktails. You would be hard -pressed to tell me otherwise. I've seen it in action, I know this to be the case. I have no more for you and I'm sorry if you don't feel me on this...

So you can't have great cuisine and cocktails at home without service?