by Stephen D » Wed Sep 30, 2009 1:22 am
I stopped into Mayan Cafe for a lunch meeting the other day. I arrived at noon and was so pleased to see that they were at capacity! Like, perfectly. Every single table was filled, some pulled together to make big-tops, except for my table, there was only one deuce empty in the place. It was seated within 10 mins after I arrived. I loved the vibe of the crowd. Completely diverse, culturally, demographically and generationally. I kept smiling musing on my 'one-world' observation. It's just great to witness this kind of thing, at least to me.
I have never had quitalacoche, the fungus that is found on corn and is one of the star culinary aspects of Mexican cuisine. I was told that chef Bruce has it on his menu, but I guess he works with it on his dinner menu. I guess that just gives me another reason to return! I fell back on the calamari ceviche, a dish that I prepared at the miracle fruit dinner (I actually forgot about that, to be honest, I just look down the menu, see ceviche, and say 'yes.') Which reminds me- how dumb is it that I have been in the city for 6 years now and haven't been to Seviche? Before you answer, I have to point out that I am absolutely terrified of libating on Bardstown Rd. Bad experience thing, from long ago.
Back to the subject, this ceviche was solid as I have had- great texture, acidity and salt balance (often forgotten, yet truly makes this dish sing when done right.) The tortilla chips were warm, lightly salted (iodized salt, maybe?) and had the very small pools of oil that proved evidence of a la minute cooking. I had pushed them to the side until I felt their heat and saw the oil, as I am just not a fan of precooked corn tortilla chips. Don't get me wrong, sitting in front of the TV with some 'salsa' bought at the convenience store + yeah fine, whatever. But dining in a restaurant setting = nah. I don't hold it against the chef, yet I avoid eating (much) of them. Like a chocolate chip cookie, when they are eaten just after cooking, something that is a banal staple of convenience store cuisine becomes a comfort food par excellence. What we commonly eat, not unlike cattle chew curd, suddenly becomes the very thing we enjoy most about a dish. Something so simple becomes a source of inspiration, lighting up our day. All because the chef decided (how much you wanna bet?) stubbornly that they were going to serve their tortillas a la minute.
Good stuff, and I look forward to getting back there soon for the corn fungus!