LEO/LHB: Le Relais: Still classy, a little less pricey

[Robin Garr]

LEO's Eats with Louisville HotBytes.com
(LEO photo by Ron Jasin)

The economy is still pretty much in the tank, local unemployment is soaring, and gasoline prices are crawling upward again. Who can afford fine dining?

Faced with this fiscal reality, a number of Louisville's more upscale establishments have undertaken menu resets, seeking to meet a shaky market with quality cuisine that doesn't take quite such a bite out of consumers' flattened wallets.

Over at classy Equus, for instance, the fine-dining restaurant and its adjacent partner, Jack's Lounge, now share a single menu, including a good choice of small bites under $10 and a main-course list that ranges from the teens into the high $20s. It's hardly diner-style pricing, but it moves Equus from the special-occasion category into a fair choice for the impulsive diner.

We've seen a similar trajectory at Le Relais, which I've always rated among the city's five top restaurants, and, on any given day, its best. Over the past year, without sacrificing a bit of its first-class service or art-deco look, it has subtly shifted from high-end modern French grand dining to something more in the bistro style.

I rendered a quick report when this shift began last winter (LEO Weekly, Feb. 4, 2009), and had been looking forward to going back for a more comprehensive dinner. Opportunity struck the other day when our friend Lucinda, one of the most adventurous diners I know, called and uttered two words: "steak tartare."

Raw beef? Tell me more. "It's special on Thursdays at Le Relais," she said. "I want it. And maybe some escargots, too."

Read the complete report in LEO, and on LouisvilleHotBytes.com.

Bistro Le Relais
Bowman Field
2817 Taylorsville Road
451-9020
http://www.lerelaisrestaurant.com
Robin Garr's rating: 93 points

We had dinner there about 3 weeks ago and had a very similar experience. My steak was medium rare, perfectly cooked, and just about the best steak I've had in quite some time. My wife also tried the vichyssoise and found that it had an odd "wang" that she didn't take too. Otherwise the pate is magnificent and we had wonderful desserts. A nice Chateaunuf du Pape complimented our meal. Now we have to go back on a Thursday for the steak tartare.

Thanks for the fine review of one of my personal favorites.

I went to Le Relais for the first time a couple weeks ago. The service and atmosphere was perfect and I enjoyed my meal. FOr dessert I had the chocolate soufle and it was out of this world. Can't wait to go back!

I also just recently had dinner there and it was wonderful. The service was great, food wonderful, great wine (1/2 btl of 04 Clos des Papes) love the atmosphere, and Anthony Dyke (as always) was the consummate host. Truly one of Louisville's gems.

I haven't been in years. There was a time that I didn't mind spending $150+ for dinner for 2 people, but to be perfectly honest that time has passes. I DO love the food there, but can't convince myself to spend on one meal almost my entire grocery budget for a week. It would have to be a special occasion for me to go. I hate that because I LOVE snails and pate. LOVE them.

[Robin Garr]

There was a time that I didn't mind spending $150+ for dinner for 2 people

Trisha, did you notice that the story was about Le Relais having reduced its prices? The share for Mary and me was around $120, and we could have held that down even more if we hadn't chosen a couple of the more expensive entrees and ordered wine by the bottle (two half bottles). It would be really easy for a couple to have a decent dinner with wine there and get out for $100 with tip, you'd just have to be a little thoughtful about your choices.