
You can, and probably do, call it a Danish pastry, but its roots lie in Vienna. Nevertheless, the Danes have made this rich and delicious pastry their own, and you'd be hard-pressed to find a better one in the Old Country than you can enjoy right here in Louisville at Danish Express.
This quaint St. Matthews storefront occupies a cozy space with big plate-glass windows that make up the entire front wall, facing east to bring in bright sunlight in the morning.
It's open from 8 a.m. until 2 p.m. daily (except Sunday), offering breakfast throughout and lunch at midday. The breakfast menu - including but not limited to the rich, oversize Danish - makes it one of the city's top spots to break a fast. At lunchtime, it's still a decent place for a quick meal, but facing much sterner competition, it's not quite as close to the front of the pack.
A dozen well-worn but sturdy round oak-top tables decorated with baskets of silk flowers fill a room with walls the color of cream of asparagus soup, with a section of bright cream of tomato beneath a chair rail along one wall. There's an odd blend of paintings of racehorses and food; one appetizing work features a cup of coffee and a doughnut. At the back of the room, a glass case houses the day's selection of Danish (get there early or your favorites may run out), along with an intriguing collection of cookies and bars.
The breakfast menu features Danish, of course, $2.50 each for your choice of cinnamon, cream cheese, apple, apricot, cherry, strawberry or blueberry. There's a selection of egg dishes and omelets, mostly in the range of $4.50 to $7.
We arrived at 9 a.m. and found our favorite cream-cheese Danish already 86'd, so we went with a cinnamon model and a table knife to split it. Half of one of these hulking pastries is plenty, anyway - you've got to know when to say when. Rich and tender, these babies must be an inch thick, loaded with cinnamon and sugar and finely chopped nuts.
... Danish Express accepts no credit cards. It's cash or check only. My advice: Hit a nearby ATM on your way in. -Robin Garr
Read the complete report in LEO and on LouisvilleHotBytes.com.
Danish Express
102 Cannons Lane
895-2863
Robin Garr's rating: 79 points