Cunninghams

Traditions. The older I get, the more I want to relive, revive and redeaux the traditions of my early days. And one of the places I like to do that is Cunningham’s.

Cunningham’s has been around since Watterson wasn’t an expressway, and Standiford wasn’t an airport. The 5th and Breckenridge location was a hangout for my parents, because of the private rooms. The place always seemed to have an Aura about it. We won’t go into what that Aura was, however, it was none the less there.

Then came the fire. My father called me and told me Cunningham’s had burnt beyond repair. This made me very sad indeed. “Where will I get the comfort food fix?” was the only thing that would come to mind.

Fast forward several years, when I moved back to Louisville from Nashville and Cunningham’s has relocated to 4th Street across from the palace, and also has an offshoot down on River Road at Harrod’s Creek. The second night after the moving truck leaves, I crave a Cunningham’s burger. Yup, I’m home.

Since I work practically next door, Cunningham’s is my fallback position when the lunchroom at the office doesn’t have much to offer.

The selection off the menu is, in a word, plentiful. You want a Reuben, go for it. You wish a fish platter (made with what I consider to be the best whitefish in town) then let one of the staff know, and it will be brought to you piping hot, and quickly as well.

When Country Fried Steak is on the specials line, I can’t resist. The Milk gravy is always just thick enough that it stays where you put it. And on Friday, the Salmon Croquette that is as big as a saucer plate. Served with the traditional pea gravy, it is wonderful.

Also, they also have a Sunday brunch buffet for those who can’t make up your mind, you can have a wonderful variety of entries (fish, fried chicken, turkey and dressing to mention a few). Vegetables that would make my grandmother proud, including southern style green beans, stewed tomatoes that are just sweet enough that you don’t think you’re having dessert, macaroni and cheese, mashed potatoes. Oh I could go on all day.

Dessert? Well, let’s just say that it’s not their forte’. Stick to the traditions of the menu. Besides, by the time you finish your meal, you won’t have any room left for dessert.

Prices are reasonable as well. I had a lunch special (Salmon, stewed tomatoes and mashed potatoes), a soft drink, and with tip, it was $10.50. The Sunday buffet runs $11.95.

And what would a review on Cunningham’s be without mention of another one of their traditions. Mr. Poole has been at the downtown locations for as long as I can remember. It’s always a delight to see him in action. He’s cut back on his hours in recent years, however, he still comes in 3 days a week.

So if you’re wanting something that will be stick to your ribs, remind you of “down home”, and where you’ll be treated well, Cunningham’s is the place. I’ve never been disappointed.

I'll have to agree with you Bill on all counts and their fish is the best. Just an overall good place to get good home cooking.

[Robin Garr]

I'll have to agree with you Bill on all counts and their fish is the best. Just an overall good place to get good home cooking.

I love the nostalgia of Cunningham's and its place in local history, but I have to say ... back in Lent, we did a bunch of fish sandwich reviews, and just didn't feel that either Cunningham's at that point was living up to its reputation. Greasy breading that didn't stick to the fish, ick. I hope it was a temporary issue, but it did concern me because both properties had similar problems.

I really like the service at Cunninghams. Always friendly, even when they're slammed. Good bar drinks too. Great stewed tomatoes and greens as well as mighty good fried chicken. BUT, there for a while ,their fish sandwiches did get real skimpy and not near up to par with their usual standards. This was about the time Robin did his review. I remember because the manager took the stack of LEOs from the restaurant and dumped them in the garbage. A thoughtful Cunninghams employee brought the stack to us saying he knew they cost us money and he thought it was a shame to waste them. Then he added with a smile as he was leaving, "We told him people would notice the change in the fish." I thought that employee was a class act.
I noticed later that their fish sandwich improved and returned to its former wonderfulness.

I think the lesson here is that the public will tolerate a price increase better than a cut in quality. An increase in costs while never welcome, at least it's understandable. A dip in quality to save dollars is often seen as an abuse of trust.

I think the lesson here is that the public will tolerate a price increase better than a cut in quality. An increase in costs while never welcome, at least it's understandable. A dip in quality to save dollars is often seen as an abuse of trust.

Great point, Carla!