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Quacking About Foie Gras

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Phil Gissen

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Quacking About Foie Gras

by Phil Gissen » Wed May 13, 2009 5:30 pm

I was wondering if anyone else can tell the difference between foie gras from the Hudson Valley in New York and the foie gras in Europe, particularly France. I had wonderfully prepared foie gras the other night in Louisville, but it just didn't give me the depth of flavor I remember from Paris and elsewhere in Europe. Foie gras needs that richness so a Barsac or Sauterne can complement the flavor in all its glory.
"The Sea Was Angry That Day, My Friends, like an Old Man Trying to send Back Soup in a Deli."
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Laura T

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Re: Quacking About Foie Gras

by Laura T » Wed May 13, 2009 5:49 pm

Oh, seeing this post reminded me! I found a very interesting little article about foie gras in my Spirituality & Health magazine that I thought I would share.

Foie Gras: Feeding Doesn't Stress the Ducks
by Matt Sutherland

Amongst creatures great and small, ducks are an unparalleled source of monounsaturated fat, one of the superfoods like red wine, whole grains, and raw fruits and vegetables credited with the French paradox effect. As migratory waterfowl, ducks are genetically given the ability to store high amounts of fat as energy for extended flights. In northern Europe and other regions where oil is scarce, duck and poultry fat has always served a crucial role in cooking. Easily domesticated, the waddling waterfowl is lauded around the world as a healthy food source.
Then there's the touchy subject of ducks force-fed to increase the size of their livers. This technique for creating foie gras has been used since ancient Egypt and has been controversial since at least the eleventh century, when a French rabbi called upon Jewish farmers to show more concern for the birds - or to pay for their misdeeds in the hereafter. It hasn't gotten any easier.
But a quick duck primer often helps to diffuse heated emotions. The duck esophagus is lined with fibrous protein cells similar to fingernails, allowing them to feed on small spiny fish, plants, and insects, all of which are swallowed whole. Conscientious farmers understand that ducks don't chew and don't have a gag reflex, and their migratory habits genetically prepare them to gorge on large amounts of food in short order to sustain extended flights.
The process of enlarging the livers involves holding the bird and inserting a funnel down its throat to deliver a carefully measured amount of pre-cooked corn. Numerous studies, including one completed recently by the National Institute of Agronomic Research, show that stress levels do not increase during feeding. In fact, farmers have long realized that the happiest, healthiest birds produce the best-tasting liver. Foie gras farmers are recognized in the industry for the quality of the breast and thigh meat of their ducks, and they also readily sell tongue, feet, feathers and intestines to be used in a multitude of ways.
The United States is blessed to have two superb foie gras producers in Hudson Valley Foie Gras and Sonoma Foie Gras. Both are recognized for their exemplary ethical standards. Arguably, a duck from one of these places enjoys a better life than most organic "free range" chickens.
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Mark Head

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Re: Quacking About Foie Gras

by Mark Head » Wed May 13, 2009 6:02 pm

Phil Gissen wrote:I was wondering if anyone else can tell the difference between foie gras from the Hudson Valley in New York and the foie gras in Europe, particularly France. I had wonderfully prepared foie gras the other night in Louisville, but it just didn't give me the depth of flavor I remember from Paris and elsewhere in Europe. Foie gras needs that richness so a Barsac or Sauterne can complement the flavor in all its glory.


Everything in France tastes better as I recall. :)

In all truth I don't eat it frequently enough....I think you'd have to do a direct A-B comparison because of the differences in preparation. I had foie gras seared and topped with candied kumquats not all that long ago and the sweet acidity of the kumquat was a perfect foil for the liver. It was accompanied by some botrytisized wine that was excellant (not a Sauternes or Barsac).
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JustinHammond

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Re: Quacking About Foie Gras

by JustinHammond » Wed May 13, 2009 6:32 pm

Foie Gras: Feeding Doesn't Stress the Ducks
by Matt Sutherland

The process of enlarging the livers involves holding the bird and inserting a funnel down its throat to deliver a carefully measured amount of pre-cooked corn. Numerous studies, including one completed recently by the National Institute of Agronomic Research, show that stress levels do not increase during feeding .


I haven't done any studies on ducks, but I'll have to call bullshit on this one.

Also, who is the National Institute of Agronomic Research and what do they know about the stress levels of a duck with a funnel shoved down its throat. I thought agronomics was the study of using plants (not ducks) as a fuel/energy source.

I don't understand why we can't get over the fact we treat animals horribly. Getting raised to be killed and then killed sucks no matter how it is done. Animals taste good and that is how the food chain runs. If god didn't want us to eat animals he shouldn't have made them out of meat. I doubt the Crocs are talking about how they should have killed that human more humanly. Hell no, they are saying, human fat rules.

I can assure you I won't be worrying about how Miss Piggy was treated while I'm chowing down my pound of bacon for breakfast.

I gotta go, my chicken livers are getting cold.
"The idea is to eat well and not die from it-for the simple reason that that would be the end of your eating." - Jim Harrison

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Phil Gissen

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Re: Quacking About Foie Gras

by Phil Gissen » Wed May 13, 2009 6:36 pm

Justin,

Enjoy those chicken livers but don't cluck too much.
"The Sea Was Angry That Day, My Friends, like an Old Man Trying to send Back Soup in a Deli."
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JThompson

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Re: Quacking About Foie Gras

by JThompson » Wed May 13, 2009 9:23 pm

I just the read the "The Foie Gras Wars" by Mark Caro. It is a very easy read and highly informative, both in the production of Foie Gras and the controversy that surrounds the liver.

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