
Does size matter? Some of the Metro's tiniest restaurants rank among its most cozy and attractive. From this assertion I do not exclude New Albany's iconic Little Chef, a 10-seat diner so small that it once wore wheels; or, for that matter, the trendy, crowded, noisy and compact new 732 Social on East Market Street, about which we'll be telling you more anon.
This week, though, we turn to another Lilliputian favorite, Simply Thai, housed in the freestanding building at the corner of Wallace and Wilmington avenues in St. Matthews.
Succeeding a short-lived barbecue joint and a forgettable Chinese fast-food eatery, Simply Thai crams about eight tables into a small space, with a couple more patio tables out front.
The restaurant's floral purple, lavender and white walls evoke the colors of spring irises. Quarry-tile floors, white cloth napkins and tables draped in white (under protective glass) create a much more upscale mood than its fast-food predecessors.
Simply Thai is halfway through its third year in business, and by all signs it's a success. Just about every evening, every table is filled with happy diners. I've seen people clad in parkas, knit caps and gloves gutting it out at the outdoor tables in frightful weather, accepting a wintry environment if that's what it takes to enjoy what may be the city's best Thai fare.
Make that Thai and Japanese fare, actually. Owner Mahn Saing, who is Burmese, and his Thai wife, a classically trained chef, have scored with a concise menu that includes traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style "fusion" dinner entrees, all under $20.
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Simply Thai
318 Wallace Ave.
899-9670
Robin Garr's rating: 84 points