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Phil Gissen

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Sugar added to Bolognese sauce @ Nicola's

by Phil Gissen » Sun Mar 01, 2009 8:46 pm

Saturday, Donna and I drove into Cincinnati for the first time to see some art and try a restaurant. After much research, I chose the Italian place called Nicola's. The room did not impress as it seemed to be a "leftover" from some German or Swiss place since it had that "chalet" look. Donna's appetizer was a carpaccio of brescola with a little marscapone, apple, and a drizzle of balsamic. The portion was about 1/3 of an ounce and cost $15! I wouldn't mind, but Donna said it was just okay. Her pasta was a tagliatelle with a sauce Bolognese. Expecting that robust flavor so typical of Bologna, Donna put her fork down and could not eat the dish. She said that the chef had added sugar to sweeten the sauce. I must ask, why would any Italian chef do this? Does a Bolognese sauce need sugar? In addition, Donna said there was a strange flavor of fennel or rosemary. This pasta cost $22.

I had some trepidation ordering a wine and asked the waiter if a 2003 Brunello would be too young. I told Dan that I like my wines earthy with a barn yard aroma. He assured me that this particular Brunello had aged young and was quite drinkable. After my taste, I knew it wasn't there, but thought it would open up. Alas, I was wrong, and I had a disappointing $100 bottle of wine.

Although we enjoyed our day in Cincinnati, after dropping around 275 bucks at Nicola's, we appreciate Louisville's restaurants even more.
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Mark Head

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Re: Sugar added to Bolognese sauce @ Nicola's

by Mark Head » Sun Mar 01, 2009 10:11 pm

I think sugar is added if the sauce is too acidic in some cases. Most store bought sauces have some sugar in them. That doesn't make it right if the sauce was "bad".

If the wines on the list, I doubt they are gonna tell you "it's not ready". I'm always amazed to see 1st Growth Bordeaux's that are 4 or 5 years old on all kinds of wine lists (maybe an 87 but an 89?). Who orders those wines?
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Jeffrey D.

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Re: Sugar added to Bolognese sauce @ Nicola's

by Jeffrey D. » Sun Mar 01, 2009 10:24 pm

Sounds like Jayson L. was being kind to Nicola:

Re: Nicola's in Cincinnati
by Jayson L on Sat Feb 28, 2009 3:36 pm

It's good but....and I might get in trouble for saying this, being a Cincinnatian and all.....there is better Italian in Cincinnati.
really depends on what you are looking for in Italian food. Boca is something to look at if you are into the whole contemporary, chef -driven approach to cooking. Barresis is another if you really want good traditional Italian craftsmanship.
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