by Robin Garr » Sat Apr 14, 2007 9:45 pm
Great question! I'll show my age here by remembering some places that have been gone for a mighty long time, but many of my best food memories of Louisville in the <gasp> '60s are Italian ... Imorde's, a great deli on Third near Ormsby, I think. The original Calandrino's pizza, which was maybe where Za's is now, and Highland Italian, a short-lived place (it may have preceded Lentini's in the same location by a year or two, a place that made a shallow-dish Sicilian pie that was loaded with fennel and oregano and other flavors that were unknown to anyone in Louisville at the time who didn't have at least a little Italian in the family tree.
I remember the fun of being a young adult when the Louisville dining renaissance really started, with Formally Myra's (Bim Deitrich and Tim Barnes), the Bristol, Jack Fry's and a few more spots on and around Bardstown that first got people talking about "restaurant row." Por Que No on Bardstown, which seemed like authentic Mexican at the time, and Chico's in Hikes Point, which really was authentic New Mexico Mexican until they dumbed it down. Boston Fishmarket in St. Matthews, a great all-you-can-eat seafood buffet, and the excitement that surrounded the first local eateries to introduce upscale Chinese cuisine, Sichuan and Hunan - The Empress, then the Emperor, Henny Woo's and Phoenix Dragon (?) and more.
There's a lot more, but these are some of the places that particularly hit my memory when I think about the old days ... and then there were the first food-specialty shops, J.B.'s Larder and then Lotsa Pasta (originally on Bardstown at Wrocklage), bringing us goodies that until then we had needed to go to NYC or Chicago to buy. The city's first bagels, at a name-forgotten bakery in Hikes Point, and our first fresh-baked croissants, at JB's, where one memorable day the kid sent out to put up the movable-letter sign, having no idea what they were, had it advertising "CROSS ANTS" for a full day before somebody noticed; and learning about wine at Cut-Rate in Jeff and then watching with joy as fine wine shops finally started opening up on the Louisville side. Stuff like that ...