LEO/LHB: Dim Sum touch our hearts

[Robin Garr]

LEO's Eats with Louisville HotBytes

Centuries ago, long before "small plates" became trendy and before the Spanish came up with the idea of placing a little dish with a snack on top of their Sherry glasses to keep the fruit flies out of their wine, the Chinese realized that a procession of small plates bearing bite-sized snacks would be a civilized way to while away a convivial meal.

This tasty treat, called "dim sum," which is Cantonese for "touch the heart," has become a Chinese tradition, the Saturday or Sunday equivalent of weekend brunch. Diners may choose among dozens of bite-sized snacks in an artful contrasting array of hot, cold, savory and sweet. Many items are steamed; others are deep-fried, and a few come in more unusual presentations, rolled in glistening Chinese wheat pasta or wrapped in a dark, sturdy lotus leaf.

The dim sum crave has spread around the world, and just about every city around the world now boasts a place or two where dim sum may be enjoyed. In Louisville, that place is Jade Palace, an East End eatery that has featured these goodies for 20 years or so. A few years ago, they kicked things up a notch, adding a squadron of rolling carts that servers push along the long rows of tables, offering diners the option to point out and choose their favorite dim sum delights. Now Jade Palace boasts a spiffy new exterior - it's part of the renovated Westport Village shopping center - but the dim sum stayed the same.

You may order dim sum from a menu if you don't want to wait for the carts, and a regular Chinese menu is always available; but we love the dim sum carts, and so, it appears, does most of Louisville's Chinese community and quite a few hungry Westerners as well.

Full report in LEO and on LouisvilleHotBytes.

Jade Palace
1109 Herr Lane
425-9878
Robin Garr's rating: 86 points

Not sure I'd describe the turnip cakes as translucent. O_o One of our favorites, though it's one of the most wildly inconsistent items we get from a dim sum menu, regardless of the restaurant. Sometimes they come out crispy and hot, sometimes they come out barely fried and feel like they've been sitting around (even when not taking from the cart). But when they are right...ooooh so good.

[Robin Garr]

Not sure I'd describe the turnip cakes as translucent.

Fair enough, Aaron. That's how they look to me, though. Gelatinous, not transparent, but I have the feeling that if I held them up to the light I could see a little light coming through.

Whatever ... I love 'em at Jade Palace, and they seem to get them right every time for me.

Dim Sum aside, Jade Palace is like comfort food to me. My first experience with Chinese food was at Jade Palace in the late 70s when they were located in an old Dairy Queen in J-town. Their basic recipies have not really changed in all those years. Linda who works the cash register is really nice...we get take-out here every couple of weeks.

I got my start in their kitchen in the 80's as a dishwasher, busboy and prep slave. Still love the place and eat there habitually. The Singoporean noodles (seng chou chow mai fun) are my favorite Chineese food ever. The sui mai is also addictive. I could go on and on...

I have not yet had the chance to make it to Jade Palace but after this review, I definitely will. Are the Dim Sum carts on weekends only? If so, can I order Dim Sum from the menu during the week?

[Robin Garr]

I have not yet had the chance to make it to Jade Palace but after this review, I definitely will. Are the Dim Sum carts on weekends only? If so, can I order Dim Sum from the menu during the week?

Elizabeth, I should have checked the current info, as Jade Palace dim sum has changed over the years. I believe you can order from the menu on weekdays, but the carts operate only Saturday and Sunday lunch. It would probably be best to call, though - 425-9878. They speak English well.

Yeah Dim Sum menu is all day everyday, but pretty sure like Robin says the carts are only on weekends lunchtime.

Robin, I just love the column title, each time I read it.

I have tried JP on & off for years and the same things always comes back and bites us; it is the inconsistency in the quality of the food and service.
On our last visit and I mean our LAST TRIP was that every Dim Sum dish we either picked from the cart or off the menu tasted old, was not hot and really had no distinctive taste. Slow service and takes for every to pay your bill.
What has always pissed me off about JP is they charge you for the hot chili sauce. It’s a condiment!
I wish Louisville had another Dim Sum place to go.
Doug Chin

Oriental House on Shelbyville Rd has a fairly extensive dim sum menu. No cart service as far as I know, but the food is at least on par, if not slightly better than, Jade Palace. However, it's been over a year since I've been to JP, so I could be mistaken.

Oriental House on Shelbyville Rd has a fairly extensive dim sum menu. No cart service as far as I know, but the food is at least on par, if not slightly better than, Jade Palace. However, it's been over a year since I've been to JP, so I could be mistaken.

While I love Oriental House my experience has been that the Dim Sum is even more uneven at OH, and the menu isn't as large.