Greetings from Memphis!

Greetings from Memphis!

Just wanted to give an update, I have received several emails asking me when and why I left Primo. I had a job opportunity that I could not refuse and hopefully it will eventually lead me back to home. I absolutely miss Primo and working with Bim, we keep in touch and he keeps me updated with the happenings in the restaurant. I got a sneak peak at the new menu and wine list that they are releasing and it looks fabulous! It has a little more structure and hopefully not only will our local and loyal foodies find it appeasing but I think it will do well with the convention goers and those traveling through the city considering downtown in that area we still depend on a lot of visiting traffic as we are waiting for the neighborhood to build. I would like to say that Primo’s menu which changed weekly was very ambitious and a true test to what this community can accept in an original restaurant and a huge thanks goes out to all of you who championed and appreciated the true bistro concept that Bim Deitrich and former Chef Michael Hargrove introduced to Primo and now plays an integral part in the new menu; unfortunately the populace is still not ready nor has established residence in that area to support many of the great food venues on a daily basis.

Meanwhile, I have had a true taste of renaissance in Memphis, a city which is very much like Louisville though I feel its heart is beating a little faster and is progressively in many dimensions bringing vitality to the heart of the city in a way that Louisville is trying but has not yet accomplished. I live smack dab in the center of it. Maybe I should invite our Mayor for life down here for a visit. I will give you an update, especially for those who might be traveling this way. Memphis does not have an original restaurant scene that quite meets the caliber of Louisville but I have found a few treasures off the beaten path of the tourist mall of Beale Street, the locals seem to steer clear of that path except for Memphis in May. My biggest issue with Memphis is horrible roads, horrible!!! With all this being said, I cannot wait to tell you about my foodie experience in heart of Blues Country!

One more thanks to Robin Garr… Louisville Hotbytes is a gem and I feel like I am still home when I read about all the fun happenings and changes in the restaurant community, every city should be fortunate enough to have forum like this!

[Robin Garr]

Greetings from Memphis!

Hey, Allison! Glad to see you doing well! Tell us more about where you're working. I've got a good buddy who lives in Memphis, and maybe I'll send her your way.

Excellent greetings, Allison! There's a really ugly thread right now (Red Robin BS topic lacking taste) that deserves this positive one to lighten the mood. If I moved away from Louisville, I'd want very much to do just what you just did.

Allison, thanks for writing and I'm so glad things are working out so well for you. Just to let you know, I took mom to Primo for her b-day and she LOVED it. It just would've been a little better if you had been there.

Greetings from Memphis!

Hey, Allison! Glad to see you doing well! Tell us more about where you're working. I've got a good buddy who lives in Memphis, and maybe I'll send her your way.

Thanks Robin and Jackie! Abosulely send her my way, I am still learning my way around since I have only been here for a couple of months. It has been a great experience so far.

Allison, thanks for writing and I'm so glad things are working out so well for you. Just to let you know, I took mom to Primo for her b-day and she LOVED it. It just would've been a little better if you had been there.

I am so glad she loved it. The new menu is great! I know everyone has been talking about not dining out as much because the economy has hit our pocket books pretty hard and it has hurt me a bit too considering I usually dine out 2 or 3 times a week. I know you are staying home and cooking more and that can be a great thing but if you get a chance to go to Primo again let me know what you think, there is nothing priced over $25, even a porterhouse (holy cow!) heheh, pun intended! I am sorry I didn't get a chance to visit with you all when you were in, I definitely miss talking to guests and seeing all the regulars... the best part of the biz!

Hi Allison. I am glad you noticed and pointed out about Memphis's speed of progress compared to Louisville. Well, not just Memphis but many other cities have surged forward over time but Louisville's leadership lacks the progressive vision. On a brighter note, you should check out my friend Wally Joe's place, Brushmark Restaurant at the Brooks Museum (http://www.brooksmuseum.org/public/dine ... d=10000152). He does excellent work.

Looi

Memphis does not have an original restaurant scene that quite meets the caliber of Louisville but I have found a few treasures off the beaten path of the tourist mall of Beale Street, the locals seem to steer clear of that path except for Memphis in May.

As a native Memphian, I must counter this statement. Memphis absolutely does have a tremendous local restaurant scene. As a young child growing up in Memphis, my parents believed in eating out and eating out often and we did not patronize chain establishments. Many of the restaurants I grew up in both with mom and dad and ones I discovered on my own as a young adult are still thriving. And you will also find strong diversity of cuisine in the local scene as well.

As for the remark about Beale Street - back in the day, Beale Street was equally full of street musicians playing some of the most soulful blues you'll ever come across as well as mischevious individuals who would hold a gun to your back when you were trying to get in your car to head home after a fun night out. The time, planning, money and energy that went into all of the "tourist mall", as you call it, have successfully made downtown Memphis a thriving sector of the city once again that locals do indeed tread and not just on their lunch break. There are amazing local chefs who have chosen to open their first or even second or third restuarants downtown in this area because for the first time in many years, native Memphians feel welcome and comfortable to venture those streets again. Memphians believe in Memphis - from Collierville all the way to the Mississippi. We want every inch of it to be inviting and offer any visitor or newcomer welcoming energy along with something unique about us. There is far more to downtown for us than Memphis In May. In the 80's, when Karen Blockman Carrier left behind 2 restaurants and a catering company in NYC to move home to Memphis and continue her career there, Automatic Slim's Tonga Club was the beginning of great things to come for downtown. She knew then what the city could do to bring back its downtown and she was as instrumental in this as the Belz family is each and every day still. Memphis understands that its downtown is the heart of the city. For me, to have seen over the course of the years what all has been accomplished and the collective positive that has been essential to its success is something I wish for Louisville to get on board with every single day. I do have a great time living in Louisville and have definitely discovered some good restaurants here but I do often times find myself wishing for some of the hot spots I miss from back home.

If I can ever help, please feel free to contact me.

Memphis does not have an original restaurant scene that quite meets the caliber of Louisville but I have found a few treasures off the beaten path of the tourist mall of Beale Street, the locals seem to steer clear of that path except for Memphis in May.

As a native Memphian, I must counter this statement. Memphis absolutely does have a tremendous local restaurant scene. As a young child growing up in Memphis, my parents believed in eating out and eating out often and we did not patronize chain establishments. Many of the restaurants I grew up in both with mom and dad and ones I discovered on my own as a young adult are still thriving. And you will also find strong diversity of cuisine in the local scene as well.

As for the remark about Beale Street - back in the day, Beale Street was equally full of street musicians playing some of the most soulful blues you'll ever come across as well as mischevious individuals who would hold a gun to your back when you were trying to get in your car to head home after a fun night out. The time, planning, money and energy that went into all of the "tourist mall", as you call it, have successfully made downtown Memphis a thriving sector of the city once again that locals do indeed tread and not just on their lunch break. There are amazing local chefs who have chosen to open their first or even second or third restuarants downtown in this area because for the first time in many years, native Memphians feel welcome and comfortable to venture those streets again. Memphians believe in Memphis - from Collierville all the way to the Mississippi. We want every inch of it to be inviting and offer any visitor or newcomer welcoming energy along with something unique about us. There is far more to downtown for us than Memphis In May. In the 80's, when Karen Blockman Carrier left behind 2 restaurants and a catering company in NYC to move home to Memphis and continue her career there, Automatic Slim's Tonga Club was the beginning of great things to come for downtown. She knew then what the city could do to bring back its downtown and she was as instrumental in this as the Belz family is each and every day still. Memphis understands that its downtown is the heart of the city. For me, to have seen over the course of the years what all has been accomplished and the collective positive that has been essential to its success is something I wish for Louisville to get on board with every single day. I do have a great time living in Louisville and have definitely discovered some good restaurants here but I do often times find myself wishing for some of the hot spots I miss from back home.

If I can ever help, please feel free to contact me.

I totally agree with this. I lived in Memphis for most of the 1990's and worked in the restaurant business while I was there, mainly at Cafe Society and Fino's, but a few others as well. Even back then there were tons of great local restaurants: La Tourelle, Puck's, Chez Philipe, Auburgine, Paulette's, Automatic Slims, Cafe Society, Bistro 122, Marena's, Raji's (may she rest in peace), Don Fox's restaurant in Cooper/Young whose name I can't remember, Folk's Folly, and many more I am leaving out. Karen Blockman was a friend and regular at my bar at Cafe Society. She greatly expanded her empire after I left to include Cielo and the Beauty Shop. Memphis is also where I learned all about Vietnamese food from dinng at Saigon Le's.

When I moved to Memphis in 1990 it was already starting the urban renewal that we are just now seeing in Louisville. The development of South Bluffs and Mud Island bookended downtown and led to quick gentrification of the urban corridor, which is noteworthy when compared to Louisville because the real crime in Memphis was far worse than the perceived crime here in Louisville.

But, all that aisde the real lure of Memphis for me was the music, the culture and the BBQ. Allison, I recommend that you explore the northern Mississippi area. The small towns and backroads are like travelling into the past. You can find amazing little catfish shacks perched on the edge of a farm pond or small blues clubs that are nothing more than spruced up barn or tool shed with some electricty strung up for the musicians. It's a place where time has stood still.

Just typing this makes me miss memphis all the more. I envy you. Enjoy your time there.

Here are some suggestions for good watering holes, if they still exist:

Alex's Tavern (Go real, real late, and tell Rocky and Art and I said hello)
Zinnie's (best when Rhodes is not in session)
Zinnie's East (one block away so you have some where to go when Rhodes is in session)
Huey's (get the burger and listen to great jazz on Sunday's)
The Bayou (oyster shooters)
P&H Cafe (best shuffleboard in town)
Two-Way Inn (get a frozen fishbowl of beer)

Memphis does not have an original restaurant scene that quite meets the caliber of Louisville but I have found a few treasures off the beaten path of the tourist mall of Beale Street, the locals seem to steer clear of that path except for Memphis in May.

As a native Memphian, I must counter this statement. Memphis absolutely does have a tremendous local restaurant scene. As a young child growing up in Memphis, my parents believed in eating out and eating out often and we did not patronize chain establishments. Many of the restaurants I grew up in both with mom and dad and ones I discovered on my own as a young adult are still thriving. And you will also find strong diversity of cuisine in the local scene as well.

As for the remark about Beale Street - back in the day, Beale Street was equally full of street musicians playing some of the most soulful blues you'll ever come across as well as mischevious individuals who would hold a gun to your back when you were trying to get in your car to head home after a fun night out. The time, planning, money and energy that went into all of the "tourist mall", as you call it, have successfully made downtown Memphis a thriving sector of the city once again that locals do indeed tread and not just on their lunch break. There are amazing local chefs who have chosen to open their first or even second or third restuarants downtown in this area because for the first time in many years, native Memphians feel welcome and comfortable to venture those streets again. Memphians believe in Memphis - from Collierville all the way to the Mississippi. We want every inch of it to be inviting and offer any visitor or newcomer welcoming energy along with something unique about us. There is far more to downtown for us than Memphis In May. In the 80's, when Karen Blockman Carrier left behind 2 restaurants and a catering company in NYC to move home to Memphis and continue her career there, Automatic Slim's Tonga Club was the beginning of great things to come for downtown. She knew then what the city could do to bring back its downtown and she was as instrumental in this as the Belz family is each and every day still. Memphis understands that its downtown is the heart of the city. For me, to have seen over the course of the years what all has been accomplished and the collective positive that has been essential to its success is something I wish for Louisville to get on board with every single day. I do have a great time living in Louisville and have definitely discovered some good restaurants here but I do often times find myself wishing for some of the hot spots I miss from back home.

If I can ever help, please feel free to contact me.

I totally agree with this. I lived in Memphis for most of the 1990's and worked in the restaurant business while I was there, mainly at Cafe Society and Fino's, but a few others as well. Even back then there were tons of great local restaurants: La Tourelle, Puck's, Chez Philipe, Auburgine, Paulette's, Automatic Slims, Cafe Society, Bistro 122, Marena's, Raji's (may she rest in peace), Don Fox's restaurant in Cooper/Young whose name I can't remember, Folk's Folly, and many more I am leaving out. Karen Blockman was a friend and regular at my bar at Cafe Society. She greatly expanded her empire after I left to include Cielo and the Beauty Shop. Memphis is also where I learned all about Vietnamese food from dinng at Saigon Le's.

When I moved to Memphis in 1990 it was already starting the urban renewal that we are just now seeing in Louisville. The development of South Bluffs and Mud Island bookended downtown and led to quick gentrification of the urban corridor, which is noteworthy when compared to Louisville because the real crime in Memphis was far worse than the perceived crime here in Louisville.

But, all that aisde the real lure of Memphis for me was the music, the culture and the BBQ. Allison, I recommend that you explore the northern Mississippi area. The small towns and backroads are like travelling into the past. You can find amazing little catfish shacks perched on the edge of a farm pond or small blues clubs that are nothing more than spruced up barn or tool shed with some electricty strung up for the musicians. It's a place where time has stood still.

Just typing this makes me miss memphis all the more. I envy you. Enjoy your time there.

Here are some suggestions for good watering holes, if they still exist:

Alex's Tavern (Go real, real late, and tell Rocky and Art and I said hello)
Zinnie's (best when Rhodes is not in session)
Zinnie's East (one block away so you have some where to go when Rhodes is in session)
Huey's (get the burger and listen to great jazz on Sunday's)
The Bayou (oyster shooters)
P&H Cafe (best shuffleboard in town)
Two-Way Inn (get a frozen fishbowl of beer)

I think maybe I should have worded my statement a little differently. Nothing that I stated should have been taken as a negative meaning or slam against Memphis. I am just relaying what I have experienced. When I said Mall of Beale Street… it really is mainly for Tourist and that most of the locals that I know who live downtown do not go there but rather frequent the locally owned restaurants and bars in all blocks around that is how I have found those hidden treasures that so many tourists miss. Remember, Louisville relies on its many attractions to bring in tourists and boost our economy.

As far as caliber in comparison to Louisville restaurant scene I meant it in a way of diversity of choice and that is not taking away from the Memphis dining scene whatsoever. The choices in dining as far as being able to choose from a multitude of the same cuisines is very limited and that is not saying there isn’t a Mediterranean restaurant or Senegalese restaurant or a sushi restaurant but it is limited in choice. I am saying this because I do eat out two to three times a week. As the city grows I am sure that the choices will keep growing with it. What makes most of the restaurants I have encountered so unique is that they have embraced the cultures that defined the south and there is a passion in preserving a heritage that goes as far back as its first inhabitants from Spanish, French, African, Latin America etc… the fusion is extremely celebrated here. The restaurateurs and chefs that I have met have taken care and pride in demonstrating the flavors in which makes dining in this area so colorful all the way down to the atmosphere of a venue. Trust me, when I step outside of the building where I live, which happens to be Peabody, one of many that the Belz family was so instrumental in developing, the air is swirling with an aroma that is not distinguishable but somehow delicious and you are never sure where it is coming from and there is always the sound of music whether it is echoing down the streets on the weekends or faintly luring on the weekdays.

When I was speaking of renaissance, the urban renewal that Ron said started back in the 90’s has as far as I can see been quite successful hence why I am so in love with this city. (Many of you know how passionate I am about the issue, especially when I was living in Louisville… remember the reference to the thread I started out of frustration and the Mayor playing baseball, http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/hotbytes/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=971&st=0&sk=t&sd=a heheh) There is an energy that radiates and it even lures the populace from the suburbs to downtown and keeps things stirring. It’s youthful and invigorating and you feel like you are part of something special happening. It is frustrating because Louisville can be like this. It should be like this. When I first moved here everyone from home even tried to dissuade me because of the “crime”. Yes, crime is bad here if you stray away from downtown, but it’s the same way in certain districts in Louisville, the streets are clean in most areas even in those developing off of the north and south main districts. Living is affordable; if I wanted to I could buy a small condo under a 100K on Main Street or spend as much as 300K, there is a price range for all and always be in walking distance of any type of venue or business. SWEEET! If I had the money to invest, I would do it now because it will only keep getting better here. The developers and the city seem to really work together on common enterprise and the betterment of Memphis and its citizens. All this aside, I am sure there are always pitfalls and hurdles but I can’t help but be positive and always hope decisions are being made for the common good and success in every aspect will follow. (Good karma)

The roads are still horrible though… I can’t ride my bike without getting pushed off the road by a vehicle or shoddy pavement and I am one of those law abiding bike riders, I actually stop at lights and ride in the correct direction.

Hey Ron, I have definitely enjoyed a burger at Huey's, awesome!

Allison, I will promise you that I am trying not to be offended by your words but it isn't easily accomplished. I would like to ask you one thing - how long exactly have you lived in Memphis?

Beale Street is a United States national historic landmark. Whereas that is certainly a tourist draw, the draw is to the history and not the perceived neon and glitter one who did not literally grow up on its streets may not be fully aware of. On the other hand, Graceland is primarily for tourists. 4th Street Live in Louisville is primarily for tourists. Beale Street originated in 1841 and is regarded in history as an icon of progression and power for both the African American community and the blues. Auto Zone Park and the FedEx Forum are for today's Memphians. Yes, when one is traveling and visiting Memphis, going to a game at one of these arenas is an added bonus. However, even though they are both located in the Peabody Place and Beale Street area, we do not feel this is what makes Beale Street a tourist draw. We want you to visit our city to learn of the tremendous history, eat real honest barbeque and hear the blues from whence they came, along with much much else.

Also, diversity of choice in local establishments so far outweighs that of Louisville that it is slightly comical someone would mention otherwise. The assortment and variety of selection in all forms of ethnic cuisines available in Memphis is highly abundant. Eating out two to three times a week is commendable but to honestly begin to tap the vein of what all is truly within reach, you're going to have to step it up a notch. And include all meals - breakfast, lunch, apps, dinner and the most important 'I-need-true-Cajun-and-ice-cold-beer' meal that carries you on through the night and winds you up at The Arcade for breakfast just so you can start the cycle all over again. And ask everyone you meet what their favorite restaurant is. Memphians by nature are mostly friendly and pretty talkative and will oblige, especially when it comes to food. They'll tell you what's really up. Move beyond downtown. Venture into some areas that may not seem so promising, like Orange Mound. Try some barbeque at Payne's. Notice the windows and doors have bars along with the bank teller's window you pay for and receive your food through and get a taste of Memphis' culture. Acknowledge the life of those who patronize that establishment on a daily basis. Duck for drive-bys. Head over to the Overton Park area and eat authentic Texican at Lupe and Bea's. She's probably still in the same white eyelet smock blouse and he's still flirting it up with the guests. Eat the octopus. It's the dish. Drive out to the East End and eat at Erling Jensen's. My passion for carbonara was created by this man, rivaled only by my passion for his in-house cured olives. Go to the Belmont and eat the wings. Memphis Pizza Cafe. Period. Introduce yourself to Alex Grisanti at Grisanti & Sons. His family is legendary in the Memphis restaurant scene. What about Young Avenue Deli (which isn't even really a deli at all)? Have you yet eaten at The Cupboard? The buttermilk biscuits at Brother Juniper's College Inn are worth the time we all have spent standing in the in rain waiting in line outside the door for anyone to relieve even one chair so we could make one step closer to this symbol of breakfast nirvana on Walker Avenue. Just for you, Brett Davis, they have REAL hash browns there. What about Dyer's? Now that cast iron skillet full of many year's old hamburger grease - THAT'S a tourist attraction!

And I'm sorry the streets you are riding on are so bad. I was actually a competitive triathlete, married to a pro triathlete, when I last lived in Memphis. We spent years running and cycling on the city streets while training and found plenty of smooth riding. I have friends who ride there still. Check out Shelby Forest and the area around Walnut Grove Lake. It's a few miles to get out to the lake but Union Avenue which becomes Walnut Grove Road has so much to see it makes it worth it. Union is just fun to ride! Just keep the whole right lane to yourself. It's a tiny one anyway and we locals always hated it.


By the way, my parents first date was at the Peabody nearly 50 years ago. I have the menu mounted and framed and hanging in my kitchen. Lobster was $2.00 and American Cheese was 30 cents. The menu cover is a painting of African American women dressed in white cotton smock dresses picking cotton and titled "Typical Scene Down in Dixie". It's something to see.

Anyway, good luck as you continue to venture deeper as there are many layers yet for you to unfold in your discovery of the real Memphis. Like Ron, I'm a little jealous of your adventure. I haven't been there in 5 whole months. I'm jonesing bad.

I got the impression from Allison's posts that she really enjoyed Memphis.

This thread is killing me. We are planning a weekend trip down there right now.

Ron, you are too much. That made me laugh out loud!

And I hope Allison is enjoying it. My wish for anyone who visits or moves to my amazing and wonderful hometown is that they have the opportunity to get to know Memphis for what it really is and not just as it appears to be. Growing up there was chock full of adventure and discovery while unpeeling the layers of what Memphis really is all about. It would be simple to stop at the pretty layer that has come to lie on top but the real treasure is found when one really digs on in and truly gets a taste. That way one can learn and understand the diversity and complexity of the citizens, the rich history of the city itself and how those things combined have played into what one sees today.

Enjoy your weekend! I'll be not far behind you, believe me!!