LEO/LHB: Something special at the Cottage Inn

[Robin Garr]

LEO's Eats with Louisville HotBytes

Serving up simple, affordable down-home fare since 1929, the Cottage Inn is one of Louisville's oldest eateries in continuous operation. It trails Mazzoni's (1884); but unlike the peripatetic home of the rolled oyster, which has moved repeatedly and only settled down in its new Middletown quarters this year, the Cottage Inn has remained in its original home. Kaelin's didn't come along until 1934, and I'm having a hard time thinking of another contender.

It goes back so far that both my mother and my wife's mother dined there regularly when they were young, and I doubt that there's been much change in the food or the mood or, adjusted for inflation, the cost of a good meal. On the other hand, a sign by the door promises "now entering a trans-fat free zone." I'll bet they didn't have that in 1929, or a non-smoking policy, either.

New owners - the Kreso family, which also operates Mr. Z's at Third and Breckenridge - haven't changed the menu, and they've made only minor changes in the decor, scrubbing down the place and replacing the old country-style wallpaper with a paint job in a classy peachy beige color.

Tables remain draped in heavy green oilcloth and set with simple flatware wrapped in white paper napkins. Bright carnations are placed in vases that look like soda-fountain sundae glasses; every table is provided with a big jar of ketchup.

It's usually crowded at lunchtime, and it can be noisy; it may take a while to get your order taken and served. My advice: Choose the fried chicken, which is excellent and requires a 15-minute wait anyway, then relax and enjoy the break and people-watching.

In recessionary times, Cottage Inn offers the kind of easy-on-the-wallet fare that invites frequent return visits.

Full report in LEO and on LouisvilleHotBytes.

Cottage Inn
570 Eastern Parkway
637-4325
Robin Garr's rating: 90 points

Cunningham's has been open since 1870 with only one change in location due to a fire. I guess that makes it a contender.

[Robin Garr]

Cunningham's has been open since 1870 with only one change in location due to a fire. I guess that makes it a contender.

I knew as soon as I posted that, someone would come up with another. Sheeeesh ...

But thanks!

admit it, you'd be lost without us.

[Robin Garr]

admit it, you'd be lost without us.

No joke! If I had any sense, I'd post this stuff here BEFORE it goes in LEO, so you could catch my blunders before they see print.

Robin - expound upon the "creamy mashed potatoes" at the CI, can you? I am a mashed potato aficianado. Were they house-mashed for sure? (I don't hate instant mashed potatoes, actually I sort of like them, but I'd like to know before I order them).

And I need a T-shirt that says "I lerve Gravy".

I already have one that says "I should really be in the kitchen", which makes people chuckle when I wear it to the gym.

[Robin Garr]

Robin - expound upon the "creamy mashed potatoes" at the CI, can you? I am a mashed potato aficianado. Were they house-mashed for sure? (I don't hate instant mashed potatoes, actually I sort of like them, but I'd like to know before I order them).

Marsha, I could have given you a better answer right after eating there, but to my recollection, they appeared to me to be whipped real potatoes with either whole milk or cream. They weren't artificially smooth - as in mixed with water out of a box - but had just enough texture to make me think they were real.

The brown gravy might possibly have come from a can - this is, after all, low-cost diner fare - but if it did, it was either a darn good can, or somebody in the kitchen took some spices to it.