LEO/LHB: Deli belly

[Robin Garr]

LEO's Eats with Louisville HotBytes

Let's start right out by admitting that I've lived in New York City off and on, had plenty of exposure to the NYC deli phenomenon, and don't really get it.

In a metropolis known as one of the world's great cities for fine dining, how exactly did such a genre evolve? Heavy, fatty, overpriced food, served by rude waiters whose shtick seems to be insulting the customers ... and the customers love it?

It's no surprise to me that authentic New York deli has never gained much traction in Louisville.

But make a few small changes to accommodate to the local culture, and deli can thrive in the Derby City. As evidence I cite Stevens & Stevens, a lovable eatery that certainly qualifies as a deli ... but a deli with a difference. Yes, the food is hearty. Pastrami, corned beef and roast beef do not qualify as diet fare. But you'll never hear a rude word from the smiling counter staff, and you can get a full lunch for the price you'd pay for a bagel with cream cheese at New York's finest.

Full report in LEO and on LouisvilleHotBytes.

Stevens & Stevens Deli
1114 Bardstown Road
584-3354
http://www.stevensandstevensdeli.com
Robin Garr’s rating: 89 points

But, if you go west across the Hudson you can get the same good (see below) food at a much cheaper price without the rude waiters. The world knows how polite and hospitable we Jerseyites are!

As for the food, heavy and fatty is the goal. As a matter of fact and coincidence, I made my first trip to Stevens & Stevens two weeks ago, not being from the "Ville, and I found it to be excellent -- the best deli I've found (BTW, a Jewish friend and I spent 6 hours one weekend in the 70's trying to find a good deli - no luck) -- but I actually thought to myself that the corned beef as a bit too lean! Honest!

[Robin Garr]

But, if you go west across the Hudson you can get the same good (see below) food at a much cheaper price without the rude waiters. The world knows how polite and hospitable we Jerseyites are!

I used to roll across the GWB on Sundays so I could buy wine! The traffic in New Jersey and the wacky highway signs made me nervous about doing it often, though ...

You're right. Roads are screwy up there. Shoulda come through the Lincoln Tunnel. Straight shot on 3 & 46 to --where else? - Paterson!

[Robin Garr]

You're right. Roads are screwy up there. Shoulda come through the Lincoln Tunnel. Straight shot on 3 & 46 to --where else? - Paterson!

Geddadaheah! We always shot straight across the GWB then 4 and 17 to Bergen County!

Had lunch there 2 weeks ago.

It was good, the service was good....the line was long...all good signs.

Also, they had a fridge full of alternative-sodas and teas, so it wasn't the standard pepsi machine and sweat tea!

They also have tubes to help recycle plastic and aluminum. Nice.

When I want deli, I go to Stevens....have been a semi-regular customer since it opened (usually 1-2x per month) and the food has always been consistently good -- my favorite is the "Speilberg", closely followed by their Reubens....BUT....next time you find yourself heading toward Indianapolis, take the time to stop at "Shapiro's" -- as good as Stevens is, Shapiro's is better...but go hungry -- their portions (especially the deli sandwiches) are huge ....the original Shapiro's is on McCarty St, just south of downtown Indy, off Meridian (US 31)....they built another location in Carmel (northside) which I think is still in business, thought I've never been there....

Does Stevens & Stevens use homemade rye on their sandwiches? That was a repeated comment about Jason's Deli, that they use grocery store bread, but it was not brought up in the Stevens & Stevens review. If Stevens & Stevens does in fact not use artisan bread, but one that is mass-produced, the review seems a little biased when comparing the two.

[Robin Garr]

Does Stevens & Stevens use homemade rye on their sandwiches? That was a repeated comment about Jason's Deli, that they use grocery store bread, but it was not brought up in the Stevens & Stevens review. If Stevens & Stevens does in fact not use artisan bread, but one that is mass-produced, the review seems a little biased when comparing the two.

Stevens & Stevens does list "homemade" rye on the menu.