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Chicago Restaurant Ramblings...

by Ethan Ray » Mon Apr 21, 2008 4:32 am

Just back in from a week in Chicago, and reporting back with the obligatory restaurant/dining/food report:



Sepia

Late lunch at Sepia. Woke early, and after walking for 4 hours, we developed quite an appetite.


Cocktails:

Vanilla Bean Old Fashioned
vanilla infused and coriander infused woodford reserve bourbon, cocoa nib bitters, sugar, muddled orange

Dark n' Stormy
bacardi 8 yr rum, rosemary infused brown sugar syrup, fresh lime juice, ginger beer, ruby port float

Cocktails here were simply amazing - hand crafted, play well off the speakeasy persona of the restaurant, and borderline perfect in every respect.
Quite possibly the best old fashioned i've had.


Pork Rillettes with fig preserve and pistachio

The rillettes were served in a hinged lid glass jar (think canning jar) beautifully preserved in their own fat with grilled bread and mesclun. The fig preserve was a quenelle of a nice jammy fig compote that balanced out the richness of the pork and pork fat. The pistachios were absent (?), instead toasted pecan pieces... a minor detail since they seemed to only play a minor role as a functional garnish and for added texture. Regardless, a nice simple, tasty light starter.

Steak tartare with raw farm egg yolk and duck fat potatoes

Picture perfect tartare with plenty of toast points. The duck fat potatoes were basically home-fries, fried in duck fat. Delicious, though the side of ketchup seemed out of place, i'd have preferred an aioli of some sort in it's place.

Grilled Amish chicken breast with apples and arugula
I can't stop raving about the simplicity of this dish. Perfectly cooked airline breast, simply seasoned with salt and pepper. Super moist, no sauce... in all truth, any sauce would probably take away from the flavor of the Amish chicken. The apples and arugula were lightly tossed with cassis vinegar and that was it. Simplicity at it's finest. Seriously, 3 things on the plate, not including seasoning (and needed nothing else), and it's one of the best chicken dishes i've had in my life. Just perfectly prepared and seasoned simple food.

A pour of a very "figgy" sherry on the house, followed by desserts on the house as well.

Disclosure: An old friend of mine; who was sous chef at Winston's (when i interned there) tracked me down randomly a week before we left, and turned out he's working in the kitchen at Sepia.

Toffee bread pudding with caramel pineapple ice cream

A large crock of bread pudding, with both liquified and crunchy toffee mixed throughout. Gooey inside and crisp on top. Simple perfection. The acidity of the ice cream was a perfect foil to the sweetness of the bread pudding.

Bittersweet chocolate crepes with blood oranges and chocolate sorbet

The crepes were served with a Tahitian vanilla bean ice cream in lieu of the chocolate sorbet, but it seemed to be more in place anyway. The intensity of the chocolate in the crepes was outstanding, and the vanilla offered a perfect contrast to chocolate overload.



Sepia was by far the best lunch I've ever had, and shines in it's simplicity. The restaurant itself is gorgeous, wood everywhere and has a nice rustic feel in general (the space was formerly an 1890 print shop). Top notch cocktails and superb food; prepared simply but even more important - to perfection.

approximately $80 after generous tipping, not including free desserts and sherry.


TRU

Desserts at TRU.


Cocktails to start:

Cucumber and Sake Martini

Light and refreshing, with specks of black lava salt, and little leaf shaped cucumber pieces pressed onto the sides of the glass (half filled, and the remainder poured tableside)

Chocolate Martini

Tasted like liquid chocolate. the entire top surface was covered in super finely grated milk chocolate.

Roasted Pineapple
Coconut Sorbet, Cashew Frangipane, Sourwood Honey

I could not help from ordering this dish. It was like finding the holy grail. Gale Gand has always had numerous roasted pineapple dishes over the years on the menu, and it was the version in the TRU cookbook that has probably inspired me with more variants that i keep coming back to over the years. I ran one version as a special at Asiatique, another on my first menu at the Oakroom, and another i wrote last fall that i've got scribbled away for this coming summer.

Perfectly diced roasted and fresh pineapple atop a bed of lightly candied cashews. A perfectly creamy coconut sorbet, and sourwood honey foam over the cashew frangipane.
Each component by itself was so intensely flavored, and incredible on it's own... but get a little of everything on your spoon in one bite? Pure heaven.

Chocolate Ribbon
Orange, Smoked Chocolate Ice Cream, Chestnuts, Stout

We read the description of this dish and just looked at each other... we laughed and i said, "what do you think this looks like?" she nodded and said "i know." and we decided we had to have it (my girlfriend and i are both pastry chefs). The chocolate ribbon was exactly as we thought it'd be: a twisted thin rectangle of soft chocolate. Alex Stupak of WD~50 in NYC (formerly the pastry chef at Alinea) has had this type of chocolate as a menu staple for years. Regardless of the obvious imitation, it was nice to be able to finely taste it.
Super soft, pudding like texture (despite it's flexible rigidity in appearance), laid among perfectly cut fresh orange supremes. Chestnut pieces that appeared to be braised/caramelized in a dark syrup lined the bottom. The smoked chocolate ice cream was everything it should be. The stout was prepared as a lightly gelled sauce dotted on the plate, that tasted like... well, stout. Delicious.

$100 after $40 tip, for two cocktails and two desserts - all $15 each.
(worth it? absolutely!)


Moto

In all fairness i have to say this before i say anything about Moto:
I've become pretty a good friend/professional acquaintance with Ben Roche - Moto's pastry chef via Myspace/email, after he contacted me and we came to mutual admiration of each others work.
When i mentioned being in Chicago, he told me to come by and have cocktails in the lounge and he'd send up 'samples"

Little did we know what that entailed.

Came for cocktails, had dinner.

Lemon Drop Martini
Liquid-centered Lemon Drop Sphere

A pretty standard lemon drop martini, except with a ping pong ball sized bright yellow sphere at the bottom of it.
Upon breaking it... tastes like more martini.

Chorizo Margarita

Smoky, but not at all over heavy. Tasted like drinking a margarita while standing directly over a smoker with chorizo inside and inhaling deeply.

1) Menu
Edible Menu on Brown butter wafer, champagne gelee, American sturgeon roe, roasted pear, lemon liquid gel.

2) Nitro Sushi Roll
Tuna tartare, nori powder, yuba chip, nitro sesame powder (if you ate the sesame powder quick enough, you'll blow smoke)

3) Greek Salad/Liquified
Intermezzo. A Shooter of a faintly green liquid with a drop of Greek olive oil floating on the surface.
Tasted like Greek salad... super intense flavor.


4) Caramel Apple with Bacon
Poached apple wrapped into a half sphere around pulled applewood smoked bacon, then encased in caramel. Applesauce, nuts, and utensils with fresh sage stuffed in the ends.

5) Grapefruit
Gin and Tonic orb (with a drawing of a grapefruit slice fused to it!), flash chilled celled grapefruit (looks like grapefruit orzo), grapefruit foam, lime meringue sheet.

6) Popcorn Ball
two identical truffles - White chocolate and brown butter shells, liquid crackerjack filling, pop rocks and caramel on top.

7) S'Mores
Chocolate shell, liquid graham craker center, toasted marshmallow, chocolate ice cream disc, graham cracker crumbs

7) Biscotti and Coffee
Freeze dried coffee ice cream (think astronaut ice cream), cut and shaped like biscotti, brown butter and vanilla packing peanuts, hot liquid biscotti.

(course 7 two different dishes were sent out.)


By far the most incredible meal of the trip, we expected 2 or 3 plates, and they kept coming.
A tour of Moto's kitchen - which was a treat and is very unusual. (all employees must sign a non-disclosure agreement to work there, so visitors are very rare)

A very very generous tip in relation to the "total" bill.


Nacional 27

Cockatails and tapas.

Shrimp Adobado Skewer
Pineapple Vanilla Salsa

I'm rarely eat shellfish, and am not a huge fan of seafood in general - but these were the most perfectly cooked and tasty pieces of shrimp i've ever had, and reaffirm my confidence that i can actually enjoy shellfish.

BBQ'd Lamb Tiny Tacos
Avocado Salsa

Delicious. Super intensely flavored, and tiny does describe it properly. (but worth every penny.)


We had 4 cocktails between us here, and it's killing me i can't remember everything in them.
Their website doesn't list the ever changing cocktail menu Adam Seger is behind.

I do recall
a very tasty signature magarita,
a cucumber, gin, and lime mojito
the latin manhattan: Costa Rican cigar infused maker's mark, etc.
the forbidden chadwick: a mojito - rum, tons of lime, mint, lucid absinthe rinse, and lucid sugar rim.
(there are definitely ingredients i left out in these cocktails)

hands down, the best cocktails ever.
Adam Seger is a mixology genius. (and an incredibly nice guy as well)

approximately $80 after tip for 4 perfectly made hand crafted cocktails (average $12-14), and two tapas.


Blackbird

Blackbird was supposed to be our big-ticket blow out meal.
With as much hype and praise we'd heard... our expectations were running super high.

We arrived about 20 minutes before our reservation and were promptly seated.

Butter service was an very attractive perfect disc of butter... seasoned with salt and pepper on top... But ice cold.
There was nothing we could do to even attempt to spread the butter on the (very tasty) bread.
I know that it had to be that cold to achieve the desired presentation effect, but the aesthetics lost to the practicality of use.



Melodious Blackbird
Remy Martin VSOP, Licor 43, Peychaud bitters

(insert cool name for a cocktail here)
Champagne, Orange bitters, sugar cube

soft shell crab, greens, ramps, rhubarb

I don't at all care for crab, so i skipped on this one...

crispy confit of swan creek farm suckling pig with braised endive, crab apples, sweet potato mustard and pork rind

a perfectly cut rectangle of (presumably) sous vide pork - shoulder i think. Everything went wonderfully together, the crab apples made for a nice touch... but i kept thinking the endive was fennel (maybe it was the mustard flavor lingering), though the pork rinds tasted a little stale.

grimaud farms smoked duck breast with braised parsley, marinated white asparagus and graham cracker crumbs

When ordered, our server mentioned they serve this with foie gras. (which i later remembered the foie gras ban... you can "give it away" but can't sell it or list it on the menu).
The duck was one word. Tough. the Foie didn't have that buttery melt in your mouth consistency - i had to chew quite a bit. (I don't care much for foie and i knew the texture was not usual). The graham cracker was a nice touch, it added a sweetness and vanilla-notes.


braised organic pork belly with toasted farro, braised kolrabi greens, hibiscus jus and fried rosemary

A nice play on greens braised with ham hocks... Three thickly cut bacon like pieces of belly. Sous vide, not at all seared and not very fatty at all (the 2 main points of ordering belly!)
The hibiscus jus was a small dribble under it all, and quickly blended it with the juices pouring out of the kolrabi. Fried rosemary? i didn't see or taste any. The toasted farro was an interesting mix of al dente farro grains mixed in a puree of sorts (farro puree i assume?)


roasted pineapple with brioche ice cream, hibiscus and puffed 'cinnamon toast'

Slices of nicely roasted pineapple atop seared brioche. The brioche ice cream tasted more like a slightly salty butter ice cream than brioche, but still good. The hibiscus sauce and the puffed "cinnamon toast" (much like cinnamon toast crunch cereal) were delicious.

bittersweet chocolate pave with caraway ice cream, roasted pears and candied olives

The pave was a delicious rectangle of ganache between two meringue-like wafers, the caraway ice cream was atop a crumble of some sort, yet was super intense and tasted like rye bread. The candied olives were delicious and complimented the dish with a nice sweet/salty brine flavor. The pears were tasty and properly poached, but cut way too thick to cut with the provided fork and spoon. Honestly the dish as a whole tasted like i was eating rye bread with chocolate and pears. I admire the use of and thought behind the flavors but it's lacking. Add some cheese (which i hate, yet i still can envision this...) to the dish and do a play on a cheese course, and the dish could be brilliant.


Mignardises presented with the check, which then we asked for coffee (since no one asked us prior if we needed anything else).

Coffee is by Intelligentisia, which is by far the best coffee i've ever had... (we drove around for 45 minutes on our way out of town trying to remember where the Intelligentsia store we walked by was, to buy 2 bags to bring home.)


To say the least; we were very disappointed.
Everything we ate tasted incredibly under seasoned, if at all.
I seriously could not even pick up the slightest trace hint of salt in anything (even in the pork belly).
The duck was seriously tough, the foie impossible to describe what was wrong with it.
Service was spotty.
Our initial server looked super busy and was tending to tables all across the dining room.
The owner/manager cleared our entrees and took our dessert order in between schmoozing the table next to us.
the assistant manager(?) brought us the check and mignardises, then we mentioned wanting coffee...
then our first server brought us the final real bill.

$200 (post tip) for 2 cocktails, 2 starters, 2 mains, 2 desserts, and 1 coffee.

The entire experience at Blackbird was so disappointing, spotty, etc. that I'm seriously considering writing a letter to the restaurant (which i normally would never even think of doing).


Hot Doug's

Bacon Sausage
Wine-Infused Grainy Dijon Mustard, Herb-Garlic Eurocrème and Caramelized Onions

The Dog- grilled
Chicago-Style Hot Dog with all the trimmings: 'nuff said.

The Salma Hayek
(formerly the Madonna, the Raquel Welch and the Ann-Margret)

Andouille Sausage: Mighty, mighty, mighty hot!

"There are no two finer words in the English language than 'encased meats' my friend'

'nuff said. :D
Last edited by Ethan Ray on Tue Apr 22, 2008 11:14 am, edited 2 times in total.
Ethan Ray

I put vegetables in your desserts, white chocolate with your fish and other nonsense stuff that you think shouldn't make sense, but coax the nonsense into something that makes complete sense in your mouth. Just open your mind, mouth and eat.
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Re: Chicago Restaurant Ramblings...

by Dan Thomas » Mon Apr 21, 2008 4:46 am

Chocolate and Caraway? I don't ever see that as being tasty in any shape or form... I'm glad you enjoyed Moto ...I've eaten there too... It's the only 20 some "odd" course meal that I've ever eaten and wanted to go out an eat something else afterwards(seemed a little to "slick" at times)... but yet I feel privileged to have seen the Moto Kitchen...

But the thing I remember most was a Live tank with one lonely Bass that probably watched his buddies disappear all night and he was the last one standing....He should have been steamed in a little black box that boiled the whole time I watched it...
Dan Thomas
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Waypoint

dthomas@awpwaypoint.com

"People who aren't interested in food seem rather dry, unloving and don't have a real gusto for life."
Julia Child
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Re: Chicago Restaurant Ramblings...

by Mark R. » Mon Apr 21, 2008 7:37 am

I see that Chicago is no different in the fact that they also take classic drinks and change them into something that's far from what they are intended to be! It started with Martinis and a shown in this report is expanding rapidly. Now Manhattans and Old Fashions are also subject to mutations. Hopefully this trend will not continue to expand, otherwise our classic drinks while no longer be recognizable.
Written using Dragon NaturallySpeaking

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Re: Chicago Restaurant Ramblings...

by Ron Johnson » Mon Apr 21, 2008 7:55 am

Very disappointed to hear that Blackbird was so off. I've had two excellent dinners there, but the most recent one was more than two years ago. Did you stop by Avec next door?

It's interesting that during my last trip to Chicago TRU was supposed to be my big, blow-out meal, and it was the most disappointing of the trip.
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Re: Chicago Restaurant Ramblings...

by Robin Garr » Mon Apr 21, 2008 7:59 am

Ethan Ray wrote:Just back in from a week in Chicago, and reporting back with the obligatory restaurant/dining/food report:

Helluva report! Thanks for taking the serious time and effort needed to detail it all, Ethan.
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Re: Chicago Restaurant Ramblings...

by Al Musinski » Mon Apr 21, 2008 9:27 am

What a review. Thanks for taking the time. I too love to visit Chicago as much as possible to visit friends and relatives and I look forward to visiting some that you reviewed. I do have to agree with Dan on Motto's. I too had the opportunity to visit their kitchen and was very inpressed. After spending $2200.00 on food and wine the first place we went to was a hot dog stand to get some solid food and a cold brew. I'm not sure what style of food they are doing now but back then they were into the "foam mold". Very neat idea and attractive but not to satisfying to your appeitite.
I always think better with a full stomach.
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Re: Chicago Restaurant Ramblings...

by NicoleC » Mon Apr 21, 2008 11:51 am

I've eaten at Blackbird several times (when I lived in Chicago) and always thought that it was good but not great. I've had better meals at neighborhood places like Cafe Absinthe.

By the way, you can order their coffee online. I often do. I miss it!
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Re: Chicago Restaurant Ramblings...

by Ethan Ray » Mon Apr 21, 2008 12:36 pm

Mark R. wrote:I see that Chicago is no different in the fact that they also take classic drinks and change them into something that's far from what they are intended to be! It started with Martinis and a shown in this report is expanding rapidly. Now Manhattans and Old Fashions are also subject to mutations. Hopefully this trend will not continue to expand, otherwise our classic drinks while no longer be recognizable.




The old fashioned i had at Sepia was very classic in a number of respects, as was the manhattan at Nacional 27.

Honestly both drinks preparations seemed like they had a larger margin of time spent on them to order.
(being told at both places our cocktails would take around 10 minutes to prepare tells me they're doing a proper amount of muddling)

Both tasted like the classic originals, but with subtle nuances of added flavor.

If you really think about it, there's nothing crazy going on with the cocktails.

Orange, coriander, vanilla, chocolate, tobacco and the like are all very much aromas and tastes associated with flavor profile due to the barrel aging of bourbon anyway.
They did an incredible job of highlighting and accentuating those flavors, without even coming close to taking away from or masking the flavors of the original classic drinks.


Point being, regardless of how the descriptions read, the drinks were far from bastardized versions, and not at all far removed from the original.
Last edited by Ethan Ray on Mon Apr 21, 2008 1:05 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Ethan Ray

I put vegetables in your desserts, white chocolate with your fish and other nonsense stuff that you think shouldn't make sense, but coax the nonsense into something that makes complete sense in your mouth. Just open your mind, mouth and eat.
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Re: Chicago Restaurant Ramblings...

by Ethan Ray » Mon Apr 21, 2008 12:41 pm

Ron Johnson wrote:Very disappointed to hear that Blackbird was so off. I've had two excellent dinners there, but the most recent one was more than two years ago. Did you stop by Avec next door?

It's interesting that during my last trip to Chicago TRU was supposed to be my big, blow-out meal, and it was the most disappointing of the trip.


We were going to stop in Avec for cocktails and a small bite, but looking in the front glass we decided against it.
There was literally no room in the place. Every seat taken, and the standing area was so packed it'd be impossible to move, much less in the door.

I noted the fire code capacity posted by the door was 64 people.
I'd wager that there were at least 90 people packed into Avec - like sardines.
Ethan Ray

I put vegetables in your desserts, white chocolate with your fish and other nonsense stuff that you think shouldn't make sense, but coax the nonsense into something that makes complete sense in your mouth. Just open your mind, mouth and eat.
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Re: Chicago Restaurant Ramblings...

by Ben Smith » Mon Apr 21, 2008 12:48 pm

awesome summary of what sounds like an awesome trip.. i cant wait to see how it inspires you. next time i have to tag along.
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Re: Chicago Restaurant Ramblings...

by Ethan Ray » Mon Apr 21, 2008 12:58 pm

Robin Garr wrote:
Ethan Ray wrote:Just back in from a week in Chicago, and reporting back with the obligatory restaurant/dining/food report:

Helluva report! Thanks for taking the serious time and effort needed to detail it all, Ethan.


When i started typing it out, i didn't fully rationalize how long it was going to take.

I think all told, it took me a little over 3 hours, including a little break in the middle.
Ethan Ray

I put vegetables in your desserts, white chocolate with your fish and other nonsense stuff that you think shouldn't make sense, but coax the nonsense into something that makes complete sense in your mouth. Just open your mind, mouth and eat.
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Re: Chicago Restaurant Ramblings...

by Ethan Ray » Mon Apr 21, 2008 1:03 pm

Ben S wrote:awesome summary of what sounds like an awesome trip.. i cant wait to see how it inspires you. next time i have to tag along.


I learned quite a bit during the trip.
The biggest thing i took away from these experiences were restraint and subtlety.

Lessons in proper service, simplicity of flavors, perfect execution and use of immaculate ingredients are also embedded in my mind.

And make sure everything is seasoned.
It can ruin an otherwise delicious dish and make it not so.


I'll see you soon my friend.
Ethan Ray

I put vegetables in your desserts, white chocolate with your fish and other nonsense stuff that you think shouldn't make sense, but coax the nonsense into something that makes complete sense in your mouth. Just open your mind, mouth and eat.
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Re: Chicago Restaurant Ramblings...

by Ethan Ray » Mon Apr 21, 2008 1:16 pm

NicoleC wrote:By the way, you can order their coffee online. I often do. I miss it!


I've already looked into it.

Not much more than the price in the store, and would be well worth it.
Ethan Ray

I put vegetables in your desserts, white chocolate with your fish and other nonsense stuff that you think shouldn't make sense, but coax the nonsense into something that makes complete sense in your mouth. Just open your mind, mouth and eat.
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Re: Chicago Restaurant Ramblings...

by C. Devlin » Mon Apr 21, 2008 1:21 pm

We're going in a couple of days, and the weather promises to suck pretty much through the middle of next week. Still, I'm determined to get out and walk and walk and walk, and eat and eat and eat. And then there's the wine.

Ethan, I'm going to print your post so we can consult as we go along. Although I've already got a rough intinerary going, we've decided another option is to simply start walking along West Fulton Market and Lake and the like to see what inspires. But I'm glad to read your review of Sepia as that's one restaurant in particular Gary and I are keen to try out. Great review, so that's a definite go.

Nicole, I agree with you about Absinthe. I think it may be one of the most under-rated little gems in Chicago. We used to live right around the corner on Wicker Park, and we loved the place.

A note about lodgings: we discovered a good resource for what's termed "bed and breakfasts" in Chicago, although of course a B&B in Chicago isn't like a B&B in the standard way, tending more toward condos and like. Here's a site with good listings, many very affordable: http://www.bedandbreakfast.com/chicago-illinois.html . And one embedded there that we discovered is a whole nother network of really nice places scattered around the city: http://www.athomeinnchicago.com/. We found a great place in Old Town, less than a quarter of a block from Lincoln Park.
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Re: Chicago Restaurant Ramblings...

by Ethan Ray » Mon Apr 21, 2008 1:31 pm

C. Devlin wrote:We're going in a couple of days, and the weather promises to suck pretty much through the middle of next week. Still, I'm determined to get out and walk and walk and walk, and eat and eat and eat. And then there's the wine.

Ethan, I'm going to print your post so we can consult as we go along. Although I've already got a rough intinerary going, we've decided another option is to simply start walking along West Fulton Market and Lake and the like to see what inspires. But I'm glad to read your review of Sepia as that's one restaurant in particular Gary and I are keen to try out. Great review, so that's a definite go.



Coleen:
Run, don't walk to Sepia.
It's that good.

The first day we were there it was cold.
A section of of I-65 just before the I-90 interchange to Chicago was closed; so amid the crazy detour (that already put us in that direction) and having a few hours to kill, we visited the Indiana Dunes.
A breathtaking start to the trip, distant views of the city skyline... but unbearably cold.
My hands were stinging for 15 minutes after we got back into the car.


The weather the rest of the stay was gorgeous though.
60+ degrees a few days.
While walking around the zoo, my friend from Sepia sent me a text that read: "this is seriously the nicest day we've had in 6 months, enjoy it!"
It looked as if it was the first day in a long time a number of the animals had been outside, as most were lazily soaking up the sun's warmth.

Hopefully the weather shapes up by the time you're there; and please do report back!
Ethan Ray

I put vegetables in your desserts, white chocolate with your fish and other nonsense stuff that you think shouldn't make sense, but coax the nonsense into something that makes complete sense in your mouth. Just open your mind, mouth and eat.
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