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Robin Garr

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Our critic oohs and aahs over Enso

by Robin Garr » Wed Jul 31, 2024 7:37 am

Our critic oohs and aahs over Enso

Mushroom yakisoba, a popular Japanese fried-noodle dish, featured tender house-made noodles. Tossed with tofu and a bounty of spring vegetables, it made a tempting main dish.
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When a rising young chef at a popular new restaurant earns a James Beard Award nomination as an “emerging chef,” then steps up to serve as executive chef at another exciting new eatery, what would you expect?

When we’re talking about Chef Lawrence Weeks, who garnered the Beard nomination at North of Bourbon in Germantown, and spread his wings to hold down the same role at Enso in Clifton, I would expect great things.

Indeed, after oohing and aahing through a memorable meal at Enso, I’d basically just gasp in awestruck delight. This shouldn’t come as a surprise, given that both restaurants share the same ownership team as well as Weeks’s leadership in the kitchen.

“Enso is a Southern restaurant using Japanese technique and style to connect the parallels in culture between Japan and the American South,” Enso declares in its social media.

Enso’s decor is simple and spare, with a Zen-like Japanese vibe in its white and glass, mostly unadorned simplicity, blonde wooden tables and comfortable padded chairs, attractive dishes and glassware, quality cotton napkins, and hot white oshibori hand towels offered as you begin your meal. Only wooden chopsticks are provided, although I don’t doubt that forks are available on request.

Enso’s menu expresses Zenlike enlightenment in its sweet and gentle reassurances: “All house-made noodles use Anson Mills flour (Columbia, SC), all proteins are local, all beef is dry-aged in house, all vegetables are sourced regionally and local when applicable, all seafood is sourced responsibly as possible, and everything is brought to you with love.”

The dinner-only bill of fare is concise but offers plenty of variety ...

Read my full review on LouisvilleHotBytes:
https://www.louisvillehotbytes.com/enso-delights

You'll also find this review in LEO Weekly's Food & Drink section this week:
http://www.leoweekly.com/category/food-drink/

Enso
1758 Frankfort Ave.
https://ensolouisville.com
https://facebook.com/ensolouisville
https://instagram.com/ensolouisville

Noise Level: The room filled up fast on a Friday night, making for an undeniably noisy scene. But conversation remained possible with average decibel levels at a buzzy but doable 75.8dB with only occasional peaks into the 80dB range.

Accessibility: The entrance and restrooms and tables in the main floor, bar area, and patio appear accessible to wheelchair users.

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