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Everything ... you wanted to know about appetizers

by Robin Garr » Wed Jun 15, 2022 8:20 am

Everything – well, some things – you wanted to know about appetizers

It's hard not to fill up on the chips and salsa that you get at Mexican restaurants like these from La Cocina de Mamá. Be careful not to fill up before your dinner comes, though!
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Everything – well, some things – you wanted to know about appetizers

Appetizers! There's something about simply hearing the name that gets your taste buds working, or mine, anyway. It even sounds so much more appealing than the hoity-toity French "hors d’oeuvres,” am I right?

So what is an appetizer, anyway, and where did this idea of offering a small, tasty bit before the main course come from?

This is where things start getting a little complicated, so stick with me. The Merriam-Webster Dictionary defines appetizer as “a food or drink that stimulates the appetite and is usually served before a meal.”

Sharon Tyler Herbst's New Food Lover's Companion concurs, mostly, calling an appetizer any small, bite-size food served before a meal. It may be finger food or a first course served at the table with knife and fork.

The word “appetizer” first appeared in English around 1820, but it became popular in the U.S. and England around 1860, perhaps because nobody really know how to spell “hors d’oeuvres.” Curiously, I discovered to my confusion during a couple of trips to Australia and New Zealand a while back, folks down under don’t use the word appetizer at all. They call that preliminary course an entrée, which is accurate French but quite confusing to a traveling Yank.

Do apps really “whet and excite the palate”?

So what is it about appetizers that delights us so much, anyway? To start with, I’m going to question the conventional wisdom that the name implies, “to whet and excite the palate.”

How does that even work? If you’ve ever filled up on all the delicious free chips and salsa at your favorite Mexican restaurant and got too full to finish your main course, you know that the human system isn’t really designed to work that way.

A cynic might suspect that the appetizer tradition simply affords the restaurant an opportunity to charge you for an additional dish, but there are no cynics on this bus. Let’s just agree that the enjoyment of dining out is only enhanced by having one more tasty treat on the table.

But here’s a twist on the narrative: If I go out to dine and I’m being thrifty, or just not all that hungry (perhaps thanks to a ration of chips and salsa), I’ve been known to order a comparatively hearty appetizer instead of a main course. I save a few calories compared with a larger entrée, save a few bucks, and still get to enjoy the chef’s skills and the restaurant experience.

Another approach: Build a meal with two or three appetizers as small plates, and enjoy a tour of the chef’s work.

Does dining on apps make you seem cheap?

Don’t worry about being seen as a cheapskate. In my experience, restaurateurs are happy to have you do this. Consider adding a substantial bump to your tip to make up the difference to the server, though. The server will be happy, and you’ll still come out ahead.

Curious to find out if I’m the only one who thinks this is a good idea, I asked Facebook friends if anyone else ever orders a starter or salad as a main course. The answer: Do they ever! At least three out of four responses said “of course!”

I also invited social-media friends to tell me about their favorite appeatizer at a local eatery, and hoo boy did they want to talk. A few highlights:

• The clear crowd favorite was green chili wontons at the Bristol Bar & Grille, which drew raves from a half-dozen stalwarts. Also garnering multiple nominations were fried tofu squares at Heart & Soy with three mentions.
• Undervalued vegetables take center stage as chef-driven appetizers like the pickled beet salad and the sweet chili vinegar glazed brussels sprouts at Fat Lamb; beets and ricotta at Bar Vetti; fried brussels sprouts at Scout & Scholar Brewing in Bardstown; fried brussels sprouts salad at Village Anchor; brussels sprout salad at Four Pegs; and cauliflower salad at Chik’n & Mi. Who knew that those veggies that Mom made you eat could taste so good?
• Fried calamari is another crowd-pleaser, with Chik'n & Mi and Porcini coming in for favorable mention.
• And so it goes, from the simple (El Molcajete’s chips and salsa) to the fancy (daikon fries with curry-honey mayo at Dragon King's Daughter or duck confit flautas at Guaca Mole).
• My favorite? It’s a tough pick, but when Seviche offers blistered shishito peppers on its appetizer menu, I can. not. resist.

Good apps demonstrate the chef’s skill

Here’s a fun fact about appetizers: In a good kitchen that takes pride in its work, that price won’t show only in the main dishes. The small plates, salads and sides, too, will show close attention to creativity, quality and flavor.

So it was with our recent visit to Common Haus Hall, where a $10.50 order of sauerkraut balls demonstrated the skills of Chef Jonathan Exum’s kitchen. A half-dozen perfectly fried portions of sauerkraut, mashed potatoes and Bavarian cheese got up-close and personal within a perfectly fried, golden-brown crust.This demonstration of frying skill signaled, if we had been in any doubt, that a main-course schnitzel would be a safe bet.

Another great appetizer that I enjoyed this year is Vietnam Kitchen’s Vietnamese crepe (VA17 Banh xeo chay, $9.25, with tofu, or A17 Banh Xeo, $9.50, with shrimp. This item is absolutely filling enough to serve as your meal, although it’s hard to stop with just one dish at VK! It looks like a giant omelet folded over sizzling ingredients, but it’s actually made with rice flour and coconut milk, tinted yellow with turmeric. It’s quickly cooked in a wok, then folded over bean sprouts, grilled onions and either tofu or shrimp.

I could say more, but it’s your turn. There are tons of great apps around town. Get out there and start eating, and don’t be shy if you want to make an appetizer your meal. Or two or three.


Read the article on LouisvilleHotBytes:
https://www.louisvillehotbytes.com/all-about-appetizers

You'll also find this article in LEO Weekly online later this week.
http://www.leoweekly.com/category/food-drink/
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Re: Everything ... you wanted to know about appetizers

by Steve Eslinger » Wed Jun 15, 2022 10:27 am

Put me down as a big fan of Time 4 Thai's appetizers. The Long Life Rolls, Golden Triangles, and Money Bags are all top notch. And does tapas count? Mojito has too many tapas dishes to mention.
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Re: Everything ... you wanted to know about appetizers

by Robin Garr » Wed Jun 15, 2022 5:19 pm

Mmm! Yes, I definitely think tapas and small plates in general count. Love 'em!
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Re: Everything ... you wanted to know about appetizers

by Robin F. » Thu Jun 16, 2022 7:26 am

Recently discovered and already favorites are the Arancini at Cuvée and the Tuna Tartare at Jack’s/Equus. Yum!
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Re: Everything ... you wanted to know about appetizers

by Robin Garr » Thu Jun 16, 2022 1:31 pm

Good ones, Robin!
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Re: Everything ... you wanted to know about appetizers

by James Natsis » Fri Jun 17, 2022 10:28 am

Nice intro to the meaning of the term "appetizers." Words, their meanings, their subjective interpretations, and translations count more than we think.

In my view, "hors d'oeuvres" tend to evoke a nicer, more serious setting in either a restaurant that takes its food more seriously, or some sort of soiree that wants to make the opening salvo stand out a bit. "Appetizers" are much like what was described above. But for me, the term "app" is not just an abbreviation for "appetizer" or the term used for the thing I have to download to get my appetizer, but rather a reflection of a menu that likely has frozen offerings such as breaded mozza sticks, potato skins, etc.----abbreviated term for an abbreviated effort! Tapas, of course, pertain to something in an espanol speaking place.

Translations are interesting as well. Introducing your head chef as the "kitchen chief" (chef de cuisine) may not be too flattering. The restaurant's Master D may be mistaken for a rap artist rather than your maître d', and your scratched potatoes might not sell as well as potatoes au gratin. You'll also be doing pirouettes trying to describe the "pepper steak" for the entrée better understood as "steak au poivre." (and how about the word "entrée," which means "entered" but used as main dish!). And coffee with milk, cafe con leche, and cafe au lait is like trying to choose behind Monty Hall's door number 1,2 or 3---you just don't know what you'll get!
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Re: Everything ... you wanted to know about appetizers

by Robin Garr » Fri Jun 17, 2022 8:14 pm

Nice analysis! Valid, yet made me smile.

I could be wrong about this, but me sense is that hors d'oeuvres has pretty much disappeared from the restaurant scene, with the possible exception of upscale French eateries. I wonder if it's on the Brasserie Provence menu. .... why, yes, it is!
https://www.brasserieprovence.com/curbside-takeout-menu

Le Relais calls them "starters and salades," though, and La Chasse breaks them out as "appetizers."
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Re: Everything ... you wanted to know about appetizers

by James Natsis » Sat Jun 18, 2022 11:04 am

Robin Garr wrote:Nice analysis! Valid, yet made me smile.

I could be wrong about this, but me sense is that hors d'oeuvres has pretty much disappeared from the restaurant scene, with the possible exception of upscale French eateries. I wonder if it's on the Brasserie Provence menu. .... why, yes, it is!
https://www.brasserieprovence.com/curbside-takeout-menu

Le Relais calls them "starters and salades," though, and La Chasse breaks them out as "appetizers."


Robin,
You piqued my curiosity regarding the use of hors d'oeuvres so I did a little digging.

Much of what I found of the use of hors d'oeuvres in Louisville relates to catering and events. Here are some examples:

The University Athletic club
The Omni event menu
Hotel Louisville catering
Courtyard Marriot catering
Crave Cafe and Catering (actually lists "appetizers" but when opened is an "Hors d'oeuvres menu")
Mastersons Catering
Victoria's Catering
A First Friday Hop with Republic Bank
A Thurby Soiree at the Water Tower

In other cities there are numerous restaurants that list hors d'oeuvres on the menu. But it is certainly a niche term.
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Re: Everything ... you wanted to know about appetizers

by Robin Garr » Sat Jun 18, 2022 2:19 pm

Jim, I'm trying to intuit a commonality among all those places and sort of see a fuzzy image, but I'm not sure what it is. :lol:

I'm not going to say that it's ostentatious, but it might be leaning in that direction.
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Re: Everything ... you wanted to know about appetizers

by James Natsis » Sat Jun 18, 2022 4:32 pm

Robin,
It is more of curiosity on my part after reading your appetizer piece and interest in the term "hors d'oeuvres" and its place in the mix. I still run a cross it a lot and now I know why. It seems more like a stand alone for events and receptions where there may not be any type of entrée or main dish served. Thus the term's meaning "outside of the works" makes sense, at least to me.
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Re: Everything ... you wanted to know about appetizers

by Robin Garr » Sat Jun 18, 2022 8:17 pm

To be fair, I don't hate the term. I just find it interesting that most restaurants - even French restaurants in the US - seem to be moving away from it. Maybe they just got tired of hearing jokes about HORSE DOOVERS and such?
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Re: Everything ... you wanted to know about appetizers

by Mark R. » Sat Jun 18, 2022 9:40 pm

I guess I've just spent too much time in France but I really don't like the term appetizers, I much prefer the term "hors d'oeuvres"!
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Re: Everything ... you wanted to know about appetizers

by James Natsis » Sun Jun 19, 2022 7:44 am

"Amuse-bouche" (or amuse-guele) is an interesting term I've heard used in francophone or just generally snooty circles. Its my understanding that it refers more specifically to little bite size items that "amuse the mouth." I guess it is sort of an appetizer snack if you will.
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Re: Everything ... you wanted to know about appetizers

by Robin Garr » Sun Jun 19, 2022 12:39 pm

James Natsis wrote:"Amuse-bouche" (or amuse-guele) is an interesting term I've heard used in francophone or just generally snooty circles. Its my understanding that it refers more specifically to little bite size items that "amuse the mouth." I guess it is sort of an appetizer snack if you will.

That's my understanding, too ... I didn't go there in the article, but agree with all you said, and I love "appetizer snack." :lol:

As I understand it, amuse-guele is considered a little more rude in France - "amuse the gullet" rather than "amuse the mouth."
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Re: Everything ... you wanted to know about appetizers

by Carla G » Wed Jun 22, 2022 7:42 am

James Natsis wrote:"Amuse-bouche" (or amuse-guele) is an interesting term I've heard used in francophone or just generally snooty circles. Its my understanding that it refers more specifically to little bite size items that "amuse the mouth." I guess it is sort of an appetizer snack if you will.


I love this term! I love the way it rolls off the tongue when pronouncing it. Also, it's essential that my food has a sense of humor. :D
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