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Robin Garr

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Tue Feb 27, 2007 2:38 pm


Crescent Hill

Cozy comfort and creative cookery at Hearth on Mellwood

by Robin Garr » Wed Nov 20, 2019 10:07 am

Cozy comfort and creative cookery at Hearth on Mellwood

Hearth’s Marksbury farm pork chop with chocolate guajillo sauce and tomatillo chow-chow

The bright mustard-yellow exterior paint job that made Bistro 1860 (2013-2018) stand out is gone, replaced by tasteful off-white with light sage-green trim. The huge 54-unit Cruvinet wine dispensing machine that made L & N Wine Bar (2004-2012) special is gone, too, a victim of disuse.

But the latest occupant in the historic 19th century brick farmhouse at the corner of Brownsboro Road and Mellwood Avenue, Hearth on Mellwood Eatery (2019- ), is looking good.

We dropped in for dinner with friends recently and found chef Jason McCollum’s fare creative and exemplary. McCollum and his wife and co-owner Aenith, who also operate Chik’n & Mi nearby, have built a dining destination here since its August opening.

Hearth on Mellwood Eatery’s acronym is “home,” and renovations have achieved a homey look, assuming that your home is a 159-year-old farmhouse. The large black-and-white checkerboard floor has been replaced by wood-look flooring, and the exposed red-brick walls now bear a dozen mirrors in antique gold-look frames. Each of the three dining rooms still sports a gas fireplace, which looked mighty cozy on a chilly evening.

The menu is largely sourced from regional farms, and it frequently changes depending on what’s seasonal and available in the local market. Its seven entrees are priced from $16 (for a Black Hawk Farms Kentucky brisket burger) to $34 (for a seared Farmer Joe’s Kentucky duck breast). ...

Read the full review on LouisvilleHotBytes,
http://www.louisvillehotbytes.com/comfo ... h-mellwood

You'll also find this review in LEO Weekly's Food & Drink section today.

Hearth on Mellwood Eatery
1765 Mellwood Ave.

Robin Garr's rating: 89 points.

Noise level: Most tables were occupied on a busy Saturday night, but it wasn’t too loud to chat with our table mates. (Average sound was 79dB, conversational but on the loud side.)

Accessibility: The historic building has been brought up to date and appears fully accessible to wheelchair users.

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