So long, Artesano. Welcome Steak & Bourbon!

[Robin Garr]

So long, Artesano. Welcome Steak & Bourbon!

LEO's Eats with Robin Garr

Steak & Bourbon’s steak and frites features New York strip steak au poivre.


I’m not going to lie about this: I miss Artesano. It was a favorite. This does not mean that I don’t like Steak & Bourbon, its recent successor under the same management. But steakhouses are a dime a dozen around here. Serious Spanish tapas eateries are thin on the ground, so the loss of a favorite is a significant hit.

All my whining won’t bring Artesano back, I know, so let’s move on. We dropped in to Steak & Bourbon with a group of friends the other night and had a fine time.

If you were a fan of Artesano, you’ll be happy to know that the look of the establishment hasn’t changed dramatically since the changeover last month, and Artesano’s service and kitchen staff, including Chef Jason Smith, remain in place. Subtle changes in decor add a touch of classic steakhouse look and feel.

A gallery of black-and-white photos of ‘60s-era celebs, historic shots and other memorabilia now cover the walls, but a couple of Artesano’s old bull head statues remain. An open kitchen with a wood-burning fireplace and a long bar well stocked with bourbon flank the main dining room.

The menu is not overly long, but it covers the steakhouse basics. ...

Read the full review on LouisvilleHotBytes,
http://www.louisvillehotbytes.com/steak-bourbon

You'll also find this review in LEO Weekly's Food & Drink section today.
http://www.leoweekly.com/category/food-drink/

Steak & Bourbon
1321 Herr Lane, Suite 130
Westport Village
708-2196
http://steak-bourbon.com
https://facebook.com/steakandbourbon
https://instagram.com/steak_bourbon

Robin Garr’s rating: 76 points

Noise level: The room was filled to capacity, making it was difficult to converse past your immediate neighbor. (The average sound level was 82dB, the sound of loud singing, with peaks to 90dB, the sound of a motorcycle.)

Accessibility: The restaurant and the restrooms are accessible to wheelchair users, but much of the seating is in booths, so wheelchair users might ask for a table with chairs that can be moved out of the way.

Yikes. That meal looked uninspiring to say the least.

[Robin Garr]

Yikes. That meal looked uninspiring to say the least.

Did I mention about missing Artesano?

[Robin Garr]

Oops, sorry, outbound links now made live.

Yeah, this review isn't going to get me in the door.
I admit, I only ate at Artesano a couple of times but I really enjoyed it both times. If I lived closer, I'm sure I would have gone more often. I'm not enthused about this concept. Not only are there multiple high-end steak options around town, my adoption of sous vide at home (coupled with fine steaks readily available at Red Hog et. al.) has put a serious dent in my desire to frequent steakhouses. I doubt I'm alone in that regard. Still, I've always heard (maybe erroneously?) that steakhouses tend to have higher margins than many types of restaurants, so perhaps this is Ole's testing of that axiom.

[Robin Garr]

Still, I've always heard (maybe erroneously?) that steakhouses tend to have higher margins than many types of restaurants, so perhaps this is Ole's testing of that axiom.

I've heard the same thing, and wondered the same.

Still, I've always heard (maybe erroneously?) that steakhouses tend to have higher margins than many types of restaurants, so perhaps this is Ole's testing of that axiom.

I just remember that according to Bourdain (in Kitchen Confidential) steak houses have terrible margins on beef (as aging and quality costs way more than people would be willing to spend), but make up for it on drinks and other menu items.

I haven't read your review yet, Robin, but if that pic is the best example of your samplings, I'm not too excited about S&B. It just didn't look very inviting.

[Robin Garr]

I haven't read your review yet, Robin, but if that pic is the best example of your samplings, I'm not too excited about S&B. It just didn't look very inviting.

I do my best. But yeah, the "au poivre sauce" looked cornstarch-thickened. I couldn't figure why they made a pepper-heavy thick gravy rather than just doing a standard au poivre.

I do my best. But yeah, the "au poivre sauce" looked cornstarch-thickened. I couldn't figure why they made a pepper-heavy thick gravy rather than just doing a standard au poivre.

Definitely not a critique of the pic, Robin. I think it was the sauce that was a turn-off.

[Robin Garr]

I never thought otherwise. In fact, I chose to lead with the image because I thought some pictures really are worth 1,000 words.

I never thought otherwise. In fact, I chose to lead with the image because I thought some pictures really are worth 1,000 words.

Indeed!

So, to be clear, an Italian joint in a former Wendy’s that serves oversauced Italian food is preferable to eating at an Ole Group steakhouse? (78 points > 76 points) That is very interesting.

I know we don’t like to put too much stock in the numbers but the fact that they’re even close tells me all I need to know.

So, to be clear, an Italian joint in a former Wendy’s that serves oversauced Italian food is preferable to eating at an Ole Group steakhouse? (78 points > 76 points) That is very interesting.

I know we don’t like to put too much stock in the numbers but the fact that they’re even close tells me all I need to know.

Alexis, while I have not yet been to Steak & Bourbon but definitely plan on going there soon I'll give you my thoughts. I wife and I actually really like Milantoni. I do agree with Robin's comments about everything with red sauce is quite heavily sauced but if that's what you grew up with and like it's excellent. Their red sauce is actually quite good and obviously homemade. I also really love their calzones which are not heavily sauced.

I believe part of the reason for Robin's relatively low score for Steak & Bourbon is based on several factors. The 1st 1 being that it's really nothing special, we have many steakhouses in town that all have good steaks. However if their meat pies are good as the ones I used to have at Red Barn, I can make a meal out of them! I believe the 2nd reason is that Robin along with many of us really liked Artesano so any replacement is going to be somewhat disappointing.

We now have our own opinions of which restaurants we like or dislike and that's a good thing. I personally like Robin's reviews but don't always put much faith in the number scores he gives them.