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Robin Garr

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Exquisite pho sets a high standard at Eatz Vietnamese

by Robin Garr » Wed Jan 02, 2019 11:25 am

Exquisite pho sets a high standard at Eatz Vietnamese

LEO's Eats with Robin Garr

A fine rendition of traditional beef pho at Eatz Vietnamese.
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I was re-reading Anthony Bordain’s nook Medium Raw the other day, or I should say I was reading it, until I got to his loving, sensual passage on pho. Then I had to put down the book and go check out the state of the pho at the new Eatz Vietnamese.

Bourdain’s celebration of pho was almost sensual, bordering on word porn as he observes, “Using sexual metaphors to describe food … seems particularly appropriate when describing pho in Hanoi.” The broth, for example, is “usually (but not absolutely always) the savory-sweet extraction of many beef bones, heavy on the marrow. Not too dark – definitely not too light,” he wrote. “If the broth isn’t right, the best ingredients in the world aren’t going to save it.”

Mm, hmm.

And then he got on to the beef: “the perfect balance of lean and fat … sliced ever so thinly onto the surface of their broth, where it wilts and relaxes and nearly dissolves into sublime tenderness, cooking lightly in the hot broth.”

That did it! Couldn’t wait any longer! Off we went to Eatz, where I found to my delight that the pho is outstanding, and the rest of the fare is right up there with it.

Eatz is a tiny place, squeezing a dozen two-top tables into what once was the living room of a renovated shotgun house. It opened early in November and, by all accounts, has been running close to capacity ever since.

Decor is simple and attractive, silver-and-white mottled wallpaper with a calming scene of the Buddha seated near a rippling brook and shade trees adorning one long wall; a white fireplace mantel is topped with knick-knacks and surmounted by a flat-screen television. Undraped black tables are furnished with mixed dinette chairs and set with forks and black plastic chopsticks rolled in soft saffron-color cloth napkins.

Owner-chef Nam Huynh’s two-page menu offers a concise but still enlightening peek into the Vietnamese culinary world. ...

Read the full review on LouisvilleHotBytes,
http://www.louisvillehotbytes.com/pho-e ... utstanding

You'll also find this review in LEO Weekly's Food & Drink section today.
http://www.leoweekly.com/category/food-drink/

Eatz Vietnamese
974 Barret Ave.
785-4450
Facebook: http://bit.ly/EatzViet

Robin Garr's rating: 88 points

Noise level: Although the room was small and crowded, we had no difficulty with conversation. (Average sound level 75dB, with peaks to 87dB.)

Accessibility: Not accessible to wheelchair users. Two steps up to the main entrance block access, and the unisex restroom lacks accessibility modifications.
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Andrew Mellman

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Re: Exquisite pho sets a high standard at Eatz Vietnamese

by Andrew Mellman » Thu Jan 03, 2019 1:08 pm

Didn't have the Pho (had Ban Mi and a different combo soup dish), but the food was very good and the people extremely nice! We'd definitely go back.
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Robin Garr

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Re: Exquisite pho sets a high standard at Eatz Vietnamese

by Robin Garr » Thu Jan 03, 2019 2:32 pm

Andrew Mellman wrote:Didn't have the Pho (had Ban Mi and a different combo soup dish), but the food was very good and the people extremely nice! We'd definitely go back.

Everything we had was good, Andrew, but the beef pho, with its 30-hour broth, was memorable. I encourage you to try it next time, and let me know what you think.
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meghan.levins

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Re: Exquisite pho sets a high standard at Eatz Vietnamese

by meghan.levins » Thu Jan 10, 2019 3:16 am

I loved the pho, a very star anise forward broth... beautiful.
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Robin Garr

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Re: Exquisite pho sets a high standard at Eatz Vietnamese

by Robin Garr » Thu Jan 10, 2019 10:24 am

meghan.levins wrote:I loved the pho, a very star anise forward broth... beautiful.

Yep ... beef and five spice dancing together. Now I want to go back for more.

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