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Robin Garr

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Tue Feb 27, 2007 2:38 pm


Crescent Hill

Eiderdown, back to its Germantown roots, remains a delight

by Robin Garr » Wed Jan 17, 2018 10:58 am

Eiderdown, back to its Germantown roots, remains a delight

LEO's Eats with Robin Garr

Sunday Sitdown, chicken with grits and greens, at Eiderdown.

When I hear news that a restaurant has decided to make big changes, I worry. Over the years we’ve seen more than a few popular establishments decide to reinvent themselves in some significant way. Remember them? Nope, me either. That’s because changing courses in the middle of the stream too often begins a sad slide downward into the place where memories go to die.

So I fretted a bit, just about this time last year, when Eiderdown’s owners told the beloved Germantown restaurant’s social-media followers that they were closing for a couple of weeks to make some changes. They had strayed from their original intent to be a “European-inspired Southern restaurant for the Germantown-Schnitzelburg neighborhoods,” owners Heather Burks and James Gunnoe wrote.

Eiderdown had become too fancy, too expensive. Their own neighbors could no longer afford to eat there regularly. “For this we apologize,” they wrote, promising to reopen with a return to its Louisville German-American roots, a more affordable restaurant, “a more embraceable restaurant.”

Maybe I worried too much, thinking about past experiences with that restaurant reinvention thing. But we finally found our way back the other night with a group of friends, just a year after its brief closing, and yes! It’s embraceable! I want to hug it! And I’m just sorry it took so long to drop in again.

The new menu gets touched up every now and then, but the basics stay the same. It’s distinctly, but not entirely, German; it’s not overly long, with just six entrees, another half-dozen sandwiches, a variety of house-made sausages, and a list of appetizing snacks and starters. The $32 steak au poivre is gone from the menu, replaced by a $16 beef rouladen. The Sunday Sitdown chicken dinner remains, but it’s now $19, a few bucks under its original price. Everything else is $16 or less; house sausages are all $11, and the bar snacks and starters all fall in the single digits. Much of the meats, cheeses and produce are locally sourced, and the sausages, pretzels, beer cheese and desserts are all made in house. ...

Read the full review on LouisvilleHotBytes,
http://www.louisvillehotbytes.com/eider ... wn-delight

You'll also find this review in LEO Weekly’s Food & Drink section today.

983 Goss Ave.
Robin Garr’s rating: 91 points

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