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Aaron M. Renn

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Palermo Viejo - No, the Real One: A Buenos Aires Trip Report

by Aaron M. Renn » Sun Jan 20, 2008 4:43 pm

This is not per se Louisville related, but I just got back from two weeks in Buenos Aires and thought I would share some of my dining experiences. Basically, this city is awesome, and one of the few places your US dollar actually goes a long way. The things you need to keep in mind here are steak, ice cream, pizza, and breaded meats. Lots of purveyors with solid quality and good price points, though I did not have many truly standout meals. Also, there is a cafe on every block with nary a Starbucks in sight, though the invasion is shortly to begin.

I started the trip with brunch at the Four Seasons (***), which was certainly not cheap, but off the charts expensive. Very elegant surroundings and excellent service however.

I had lunch at Mott (**) in Palermo Viejo, which is recommended by many tourist books. I thought it was ok, but nothing special, with a salad focused menu. The design is cool though.

Mercado (**) at the Faena Hotel and Universe was an ok steak place. The star of the show here is the Philippe Starck designed hotel, which is uber-cool in a highly decadent sort of way. If I had it to over again, I'd have eaten in the stark white Bistro in the same hotel. But a nightcap at the bar here is a must.

Gran Bar Danzon (***) This wine bar and eatery is superb - highly recommended.

Caza Cruz (**) A too cool for you design and staff (complete with matching Chuck's for everyone). The food is the most nouveau I had in BA, but that doesn't mean it was good. And it was one of the pricer establishments.

La Cabrera (****) This steak place is unbelievable. It is an absolute must visit in BA. See this web page for photos: http://www.buenostours.com/la-cabrera Enough food to over-stuff two people plus two bottles of one of their higher priced wines plus tip was less than US$100! Astonishing value for the money.

L'Orangerie at Hotel Alvear Palace (**) - The local analogue to the Four Seasons, this place has an awesome enclosed terrace, but the food was only ok.

La Bistecca (**) - An ok lunch place in Puerto Madero, with an extensive buffet and steak/pasta selection.

La Caballeriza (**) A Puerto Madero steak place. Ok, but not spectacular

Pizza La Continental (**) A San Telmo neighborhood Pizza joint. Not bad. I wish I'd gone to more pizza places while here. They also have one on Avendia Santa Fe called, and I'm not making this up, Pizzeria Kentucky featuring pizza by the slice. I didn't eat there, alas.

La Raya (**). Another San Telmo neighborhood place (my office in BA is in this neighborhood). I had the Milanesa, which is a fancy name for chicken fried steak or weiner schnitzel. Not bad.

Rodizio (**) I'm not sure why my staff in BA dragged me to a Brazillian steakhouse, but this was typical of its type. In Puerto Madero.

Burzaco (**) Another San Telmo neighborhood place with good Spanish style food - decent place for lunch.

To interpret my star scale, see:

http://www.urbanophile.com/arenn/ratings.html

I should also note that the overwhelming preponderance of wines on most wine lists are local Argentinian wines. Plenty of Malbecs and the like. The prices are decent but aren't as good a value as you'd get in say Spain.

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