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Marsha's Industry Standard: Your number is up

by Robin Garr » Fri Dec 02, 2016 1:16 pm

Your number is up

By Marsha Lynch

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“Who had the pork chop?”

We’ve all been through this. You and your dining companions have chosen a restaurant, been seated, presented with menus and had your orders taken. When the food arrives, the server starts making you do all the work. It’s a conversation-stopper. Hands point to one another across the table. A glass of wine gets knocked over due to all the reaching and pointing. This system is known as “auctioning” food, and it’s a big no-no in fine dining table service.

Since it’s so universally frowned upon, it happens very rarely. Instead, the server glides up to your table and places the dishes in front of the guests who ordered them without asking for your help. Sometimes it’s a food runner (someone you haven’t met yet) presenting your meals. It’s like a magic trick! You may wonder how that guy knew “who had the pork chop” without asking. He wasn’t even here when your orders were taken. So how do they do it, these corkscrew-carrying heroes of the dining room floor?

It’s a game of numbers. First, each table has an assigned number. All the servers know which table is assigned which number. That is job one as a newly-hired member of the front-of-the-house crew: memorize the table number chart. Heck, in diners and mid-level steak houses, you can even find your own table number on a black plastic tag glued firmly to the edge of your booth’s table. But in fine dining, it’s more discreetly done from memory.

Table numbers are often grouped into sections, as well. Perhaps all the tables in the section against the west wall are the 70s, so servers can easily find table 71 or table 73 in the section they’re assigned. Sometimes the section itself has a number, too. The manager assigns sections to specific servers during a pre-shift meeting. So that explains how even a food runner you haven’t seen before can make sure the right food gets to the right table, but how does he or she know which patron at that table ordered which dish? Seat numbers.

There’s no need for you to turn around and see if there’s a number written on the back of your seat at this point; there’s not. All servers and food runners must also memorize seat numbers and convey those numbers to the point-of-sale system when they ring in the table’s order. You might well ask yourself how they can possibly keep the section numbers, table numbers and seat numbers memorized for a 125-or-more-seat restaurant, but it’s easier than you’d think. Seat No. 1 at any given table is usually designated as the seat closest to the front door. Then the seat numbers advance, usually clockwise from seat No. 1, whether the table is round or square.

So when a server (even if it’s not your original server) picks up food to be delivered to your table, he or she inspects the ticket before leaving the pass and can clearly see that seat No. 3 at Table 71 is “who had the pork chop.” This system works well for veteran servers and newbies alike, as long as someone correctly wrote down the seat number that goes with each dish when taking the order, and then inputs it correctly into the point-of-sale system.

Naturally there are variables. In fine dining, it’s a long, antiquated tradition to take the ladies’ orders first, beginning with the eldest (if one of the ladies is obviously eldest). If not, it’s permitted to start with any lady at the table, take all the ladies’ orders and then move on to the men. Food should be delivered in the same order if possible. So, it’s not just a matter of beginning with seat No. 1 and going around the table clockwise or tossing plates full of food out like you were dealing a hand of poker. Maybe you start by taking seat No. 3’s order, then move on to seat No. 6, then back to seat No. 1 and then on to seat No. 4. It’s complex: This is one of those hidden nuts and bolts things that — when it’s performed correctly — you will never even realize.

Some of this fine-dining order-taking etiquette has been modernized and simplified over the years, though, so ladies: Don’t get your linen napkin in a twist when the server looks at you first and asks what you’d like for dinner. You might simply be the lady closest to the door. •

Marsha Lynch has worked at many Louisville independent restaurants including Limestone, Jack Fry’s, Jarfi’s, L&N Wine Bar and Bistro, Café Lou Lou, Marketplace @ Theater Square, Fontleroy’s and Harvest.

Read it on LouisvilleHotBytes:
http://www.louisvillehotbytes.com/your-number-is-up

and in LEO Weekly:
http://www.leoweekly.com/2016/11/your-number-is-up/
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Re: Marsha's Industry Standard: Your number is up

by Mark R. » Fri Dec 02, 2016 7:21 pm

Another great article as usual Marsha! Of course anybody in the industry knows the routine and most people who do not regularly due to but for many people the precision of the act is a marvelous feat. Your article certainly unveils the mystery of it to them.
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Re: Marsha's Industry Standard: Your number is up

by Marsha L. » Fri Dec 02, 2016 8:48 pm

Thanks, Mark!
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Re: Marsha's Industry Standard: Your number is up

by RonnieD » Sat Dec 03, 2016 5:42 pm

Yeah, this is why I was dismal in my short stint in the front of house. We did the whole "taken the elder ladies' order first and then work your way down" system and there was just no way my feeble 19 year old mind could handle that (I would be horrified to try it now at 41). I could remember how to beat the Legend of Zelda and the Detroit Tigers' Chet Lemon's 1985 batting statistics, but knowing who ordered the lasagna and who got the hot brown? Not a chance in hell. Recipes are much easier, you make them a thousand times, they rarely change, and then muscle memory takes over.

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Re: Marsha's Industry Standard: Your number is up

by Jay M. » Sun Dec 11, 2016 10:51 pm

Thanks for the insider information. I was reminded of this over the weekend when we visited the "dried mushroom" place. They failed miserably. We were a two top - one male, one female, so it should have been easy to designate who had which app and which main. But no, the runner had to present the dishes and ask. Kind of petty to lament something like this, but, at that price point, they should have done better.
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Re: Marsha's Industry Standard: Your number is up

by Alexis Rich » Mon Dec 12, 2016 12:25 pm

I once witnessed my brother, a long time server then at KT's, take the order of an entire 19 top without writing down a single thing. It was full of dressing on the side requests, burger temps, you name it. He and a few other servers paraded out the food and he presented dishes to the ladies first, then the gentlemen. He knew exactly who got what and not a single plate was "auctioned off." Once the food was down, not a single send-back or correction. Ketchup was already on the table. He ran that 19 top and two other tables and probably had time for a smoke out back.

I have never seen his equal.
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Re: Marsha's Industry Standard: Your number is up

by Marsha L. » Mon Dec 12, 2016 2:39 pm

Alexis Rich wrote:I once witnessed my brother, a long time server then at KT's, take the order of an entire 19 top without writing down a single thing.


That is amazing. I always get worried for everyone - patrons & staff - when servers don't write down orders. It seems like a cool party trick when it goes well, but misplaced hubris when it doesn't. Only the most highly trained staff at the fanciest places seem to be able to do it with any decent rate of success.

I ate many times at KT's over the years so I obviously enjoyed their food and service but that echelon of restaurant wouldn't be somewhere I would expect someone to memorize a 19 top. I wonder what that guy's doing now?

Edited to add: Oh, my I see it was your brother. What's he doing now?
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Re: Marsha's Industry Standard: Your number is up

by neal.johnson » Mon Dec 12, 2016 4:12 pm

Alexis Rich wrote:I once witnessed my brother, a long time server then at KT's, take the order of an entire 19 top without writing down a single thing.


Sorry. Not buying it.
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Re: Marsha's Industry Standard: Your number is up

by Robin Garr » Mon Dec 12, 2016 5:03 pm

neal.johnson wrote:Sorry. Not buying it.

Some thoughts are really best kept to one's self ... :oops:
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Re: Marsha's Industry Standard: Your number is up

by Steve Shade » Mon Dec 12, 2016 6:23 pm

Robin Garr wrote:
neal.johnson wrote:Sorry. Not buying it.

Some thoughts are really best kept to one's self ... :oops:


+1 .... Maybe Neal should just go ahead and call her a liar.
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Re: Marsha's Industry Standard: Your number is up

by Alexis Rich » Mon Dec 12, 2016 7:26 pm

My sister and I were having lunch during the holidays and it was a lunch order, if that makes it more believable. No multiple courses or anything like that. We thought it was going to be a disaster, too but he pulled it off. I agree, it IS an incredible story. For that reason I was moved to post which I don't often do.

He still serves at 2 local places. I always thought he'd be great at fine dining. He tried it and didn't like it.
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Re: Marsha's Industry Standard: Your number is up

by GaryF » Tue Dec 13, 2016 1:58 am

Oh no! The secret is out! :)

Back in the day I could easily remember a 10 or 12 top.
That day is long past.
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Re: Marsha's Industry Standard: Your number is up

by Carla G » Tue Dec 13, 2016 7:49 am

(Deep bow, arm swooshing gesture )
I totally believe it. Savants manifest in all careers and when they do they are awesome!
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Re: Marsha's Industry Standard: Your number is up

by Marsha L. » Tue Dec 13, 2016 7:27 pm

Hell, half the time I can't remember what I went in the walk-in for. Kudos to your brother, Alexis.
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Re: Marsha's Industry Standard: Your number is up

by Steve Shade » Wed Dec 14, 2016 4:39 pm

Marsha L. wrote:Hell, half the time I can't remember what I went in the walk-in for. Kudos to your brother, Alexis.


I am twice as old as you and I can't remember what I went to the basement for. When I forget why I went to the bathroom, color me gone. :lol:
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