by Ethan Ray » Tue Sep 13, 2016 2:43 am
I used to post here pretty regularly years ago, and have been lurking for months...
Yet, I'll break my silence for this.
I have worked with, lived with, shared happiness, pain, sorrow and laughter with Griffin.
If I can say anything about him as a person... he is the following: honest, genuine, one of the most giving people I have ever known, an incredible friend to those he loves, a loving and attentive father, a son who makes his parents proud; he is equally humble, driven, passionate, not malicious, well read, writes well, and perfectly comfortable with where he is at both professionally and personally.
He has both grown; as well as suffered - personally, professionally, and financially as a result of his passion for his craft and profession. He has also thrived, and as I see his barometer - will only continue to, as he grows and progresses on a daily basis. As any true cook hopes to.
He's not going anywhere, and refuses to be a case study in "the flame that burned twice as bright, but for only half as long". Nor will I. We share a lot of mutual respect each for each other both on personal and professional levels and have always pushed each other to be better in ways that were out of our natural thought processes.
For me - pushing him creatively, and in style and form. "Less is more, more is less.", Thought processeson the how's and whys of approach to creation of dishes.
From him - I learned to (at least attempt to) accept what I can't change. To make the most of every day and every situation life throws at you. I learned how to make ramen from scratch never having made anything other than Italian pastas before.We piled his research and testing for well over a year, applied my pastry and pasta knowledge about doughs, humidity, etc., and we were finally able to nail down a product that was entire (quite literally) foreign to us, and dialed it in.
Truth be told - my obsession (that in the end became greater than his) to perfect that ramen dough recipe saved my life and got me sober for 15 months.
He strives for perfection in as much as possible for the model at hand, and isn't afraid to say: "this is bullshit. We're not serving this".
We would close Rumplings for lunch if we got cleaned out of everything the night before because we wouldn't rush any of the broths that took hours to do properly. Between him and my brother Chip (who ran the kitchen on the day to day), there was zero acceptance for serving our guests sub par food because "we're supposed to be open".
Yes, it's likely considered a poor business model, but with 18 seats serving 300+ bowls of noodles a night on weekends... There were some limitations to our ambition and ability to produce to meet the demand. This was part of the undoing of Rumplings.
Zero compromise for mediocrity merely to fill seats. We did it right, or we didn't serve it. The restaurant simply had not enough work or storage space to meet our volume demands, nor the practical advantage to keep up with the fresh noodles made daily. As I am told, Mirin will be outsourcing noodles to remedy this quandary.
Yeah, it sucks for our guests to show up and the place is close for lunch because we got cleaned out the night before and have to recoup to prepare product we deem fit to be proud of. Or we closed early (by early I mean midnight), because of the same.
At the end of the day... You, as a diner: would you be more pissed off to show up hoping to eat and the restaurant is temporarily closed for a service or earlier than intended... Or would you rather they serve you bullshit, with a smile on their faces knowing damn well it's not as good as it could be? Knowing they served you bullshit and took your hard earned money?
The small team we had there couldn't accept that. We couldn't do that to our customers. Too much pride, (probably at the time) too much ego. We tried limping in underprepared a few times. People could tell. It wasn't worth it. Unless they were our regulars; they wouldn't be back. Our regulars lamented because they had had better before from us, but just thought we maybe had "an off night", but knew we were better than that and showed up the next night and we satiated them with "the real deal".
Truth is, on those rare occasions in the beginning: we knew it was off. It was rushed. It was subpar, and it pained all of to serve it. But we did because at that moment, it's what made sense for the dollar attached to running a business.
Griffin has learned a lot from all that.
Those issues at Rumplings aren't even a fraction of his concerns for Mirin. Learn from your mistakes and adapt.
He and I talked briefly in person about this yesterday at my 2 year old niece's birthday party. We laughed. We both thought the whole thing was comical with how blown out of proportion this entire thing is and how anyone who think this was some sort of direct, personal attack.
As he stated: he's not in the hot chicken business. His forthcoming Mirin isn't even in the same restaurant category as Joella's other than perhaps "fast casual".
He's got no axe to grind with Tony personally or professionally. There's no ghostwriting fake moniker he's hiding behind. He's just providing a venue for honest, objective editorial in the Louisville food world.
Professionals I know in this town have been saying the same shit for years... Too soft on some places, too hard on others,
But mediocrity and monotony are accepted as the norm or expected.
At the end of the day - as a restaurant operator: your product and brand speaks for itself. Some will love it and eat it up (literally and metaphorically). Others won't. Some reviews you sincerely look at like: "where did we fail?", others you look at like: "this guy clearly doesn't know what good food (hell, even decent food), if it hit them in the face". The truth lies somewhere in between. It always does. I've perused over the comments on both friends who have shared the Insider Louisville article, as well as the initial post itself (and public opinion here on LHB), and there are as many who echo the same sentiments expressed in the review on Kitchen Banter. A wide cross section of both diners and professionals... What I read is a mix of "this guys is running his mouth", to "I've had great experiences and I don't agree", to "the original location I've tried and tried is horrible, but I love the other location"... There's a lot of discrepancy in opinion and opinion based on location.
And if it takes getting smacked in the face with some hot chicken to maybe just not get offended by a (very new) blog that has a marginally small reader base and see it as some sort of personal libelous attack, to maybe be the slightest bit introspective...
I say: Well damn. More people surely see the bad Yelp reviews than this silly little blog that makes no fault and takes pride in being unabashedly honest. And the bulk of its editorial content has been thoroughly laced with humor.
If you're that hurt by a blog post that somehow got some viral traction because it's contrary to a perfect model of "we're the best ever!"
Please consider the following:
No restaurant is perfect.
No amount of corporate training and systems makes a restaurant perfect 100% of the time. There are simply too many variables, guest preferences, expectations to arrive at a 100% guest satisfaction rating every. single. time.
But that's what we strive for.
I've had great service at fast food drive-thru's that was more honest, personable and genuine than I've had in fine dining restaurants. I've had fantastic meals served on plastic trays that wowed me and stopped me in my tracks more than a luxury entree I'm paying mint for.
I've also had some of the most memorable meals in places you'd expect it: places your paying top dollar.
The whole point is guest perception vs quality vs perceived value vs what the restaurant's model and intention is.
The combined sum of those factors is where you succeed. Not in being the most inventive chef, doing the coolest new technique.
Was the food good? Was the service what you expected, did it commensurate with the price you paid? Are you satisfied or disappointed?
I make no bones about the fact that I'm quite happy to get fast food over eating at a lot of mid priced fast casual places because I know exactly what I'm getting into. If I spent $15-30 on a meal I expect a reasonable level of satisfaction. If you fall short, the more the dissatisfaction. If I spend $5-10 and my food isn't perfect, I can shrug it off. I also can justify trying it again (especially if I've had it plenty of times before, with little to no issues). You reach a certain dollar amount on being pissed off if it didn't meet your expectations. More often than not the cheapest places tend to be reasonable consistent, and reliable for more dollars I spent...
Here's another case study: I was given three coupons for one free chicken plate with two sides right around the time the original Joella's opened (these coupons just now recently expired) and while originally excited to use them, have not used one of them due to increasingly mixed reviews I've heard from non-professionals and professionals alike. I've literally had non-foodie/non-restaurant worker friends tell me not to waste my time for free food unless I was starving and okay with being a little disappointed and let down.
I don't know about you, but I love chicken, fried chicken and especially hot chicken and I love a free meal even more... And I couldn't even commit my time to try three times to get a free meal, because everytime I suggested it I was talked out of it.
...And off my soapbox and back into the murkiness where the lurkers hide...
Ethan Ray
I put vegetables in your desserts, white chocolate with your fish and other nonsense stuff that you think shouldn't make sense, but coax the nonsense into something that makes complete sense in your mouth. Just open your mind, mouth and eat.