We hunt for culinary trophies at La Chasse LEO's Eats with Robin Garr Fennel and citrus braised fried rabbit at La Chasse.
Sure, Louisville is named after a French king - Louis XVI, who later lost his head in the French Revolution - but let’s face it: This decision didn’t make us French.
Consider the obvious: Louisville has had damn few French restaurants over 238 years of corporate identity. Save for the long-running Le Relais and the attractive Brasserie Provence, French restaurants don’t come often, and they don’t usually stay long.
So I’m happy to report that our latest French arrival, La Chasse, which opened last autumn in the Highlands quarters vacated by Palermo Viejo, looks like a keeper. It builds on the strengths of its founders, Chef Alexander Dulaney, who came from Le Relais; and Isaac Fox, who presides over the front of the house, from Volare.
Palermo Viejo had a cozy atmosphere; so does La Chasse. At first glance, you might think it hasn’t changed much. But a closer look reveals a substantial redo, with thoughtful, urbane decor that speaks more of Paris than Provence. Think of a neighborhood bistro - earth tones, painted brick, a few paintings - that sets a comfortable feel, then stays out of the way. Same goes for earth-color tablecloths and napkins, fine but unobtrusive flatware and plates, and classy wine glasses.
A stylish bar now runs full-length, and it offers a thoughtful drinks program, which features creative cocktails sorted by style and a well-chosen, international wine list with most bottles starting around $40 and wines by the glass around $10.
La Chasse defines itself as “farm to table inspired French and Spanish fusion,” although I’d spread a broader net, calling it French-accented with highlights from Old World and New alike. Perhaps it’s the rabbit and elk entrees that underscore the name “La Chasse,” meaning “the chase” or “the hunt.” ...
Read the full review on LouisvilleHotBytes,
http://www.louisvillehotbytes.com/?p=5574See this column also in LEO Weekly:
http://www.leoweekly.com/2016/05/hunt-c ... und-many//La Chasse1359 Bardstown Road
822-3963
http://lachasselouisville.comhttp://facebook.com/LaChasseLouisvilleRobin Garr's rating: 87 points