by Robin Garr » Thu Mar 03, 2016 8:48 am
I think the laugh here lies in her odd assumption that there is an iconic shrimp and grits dish in Louisville. The fact is that every chef has his own take, and none of them are very close to the simple down-home original from Beaufort, S.C., that Shawn Ward brought back to Louisville and introduced, in his own chef-driven form, around 1995. It caught fire, and everyone came up with his or her own version. EVERYBODY "tampers" with it, and that's the point.
For the daily paper's reviewer to be seemingly unaware of this is a little funny, a little pitiful, and makes a point that's louder than words.