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Robin Garr

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James Beard Awards Best Chef Southeast: Who from Louisville?

by Robin Garr » Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:28 am

The James Beard Award competition is being set up for the coming session, and there's some concern among the organizers about obvious ballot-stuffing and PR manipulation efforts, so the organization is trying to get a more appropriate list of potential candidates.

Here's your chance to have your say: Which Louisville chefs - both established chefs and rising young stars - ought to win consideration for this accolade on their own merits, not ballot-stuffing?

If we can come up with a good, honest list, I'll get it to the right people, and this will afford an excellent opportunity to make the results legitimate.
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Clay Cundiff

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by Clay Cundiff » Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:09 am

Daniel Stage
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Ron Johnson

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by Ron Johnson » Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:10 am

Dean Corbett: Equus and Corbett's
Anthony Lamas: Seviche and Seviche Bistro
Daniel Stage: Le Relais
Todd Richards: Oakroom
Fernando Martinez: Havana Rumba and Mojitos
Peng Looi: Asiatique and August Moon
Michael Paley: Proof
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TP Lowe

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by TP Lowe » Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:10 am

Deano
Jim Gearhardt
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Clay Cundiff

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by Clay Cundiff » Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:11 am

And Dean Corbett, based on the enduring excellence of Equus. (I haven't had a chance to try the new place yet.)
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Chris M

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by Chris M » Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:20 am

I think my first nomination would have to be Anthony Lamas. I've never had a meal prepared by one of his kitchens that was anything short of spectacular. It helps that my taste run towards his particular choice of cuisine, but regardless... truly spectacular offerings across the board, IMO.

My second choice would be Dean Corbett. He really seems to be pushing the local palette with his new place. I think Todd Richards should get a mention (can't leave off the head chef at the only 5 Diamond Restaurant in Kentucky!)

There are many more, but those would be my top choices.

Thanks Robin!
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Ed Vermillion

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by Ed Vermillion » Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:31 am

Ron Johnson wrote:Dean Corbett: Equus and Corbett's
Anthony Lamas: Seviche and Seviche Bistro
Daniel Stage: Le Relais
Todd Richards: Oakroom
Fernando Martinez: Havana Rumba and Mojitos
Peng Looi: Asiatique and August Moon
Michael Paley: Proof



Rounding out this list:

Shawn Ward: Jack Fry's
Michael Ton: Basa
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by Kurt R. » Tue Jan 08, 2008 12:00 pm

Dean Corbett: Equus and Corbett's
Anthony Lamas: Seviche and Seviche Bistro
Todd Richards: Oakroom
Peng Looi: Asiatique and August Moon
Michael Paley: Proof
Shawn Ward: Jack Frys
Michael Ton: Basa
Jim Gerhardt: Limestone
Daniel Stage: Le Relais
Jeff Jarfi: Jarfi's Bistro
Kurt


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Sue H

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by Sue H » Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:06 pm

Anoosh Shariat ~ (waiting for his next venture)

Edward Lee ~ 610 Magnolia
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Paula B

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best chefs

by Paula B » Tue Jan 08, 2008 8:12 pm

I am biased but definitely Anoosh Shariat.
also peng looi, and dean
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by Bradley C. Pearce » Wed Jan 09, 2008 11:41 am

Just so everybody knows...Anoosh is currently doing some F.O.H. work @ Z's & has made a pretty big impact there.
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Ethan Ray

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and back onto my pulpit...

by Ethan Ray » Thu Jan 10, 2008 1:56 pm

I've been trying to keep my mouth shut for a while on this; but this has gotta a little off track
and i don't think the majority of you truly rationalize the gravity the awards carry and to what caliber of chefs win (or even should get nominated) for JBF awards.

For starters, i keep up with JamesBeard.org on a somewhat regular basis, and noted this:

2008 JAMES BEARD FOUNDATION AWARDS ENTRY FORMS
RESTAURANT AND CHEFS
Entry deadline: November 30, 2007

which would explain Robin's earlier post asking for suggestions now after the deadline date:
'there's some concern among the organizers about obvious ballot-stuffing and PR manipulation efforts, so the organization is trying to get a more appropriate list of potential candidates.'


That said, keep this in mind (cut and pasted):


"CHEFS WHO HAVE SET NEW OR CONSISTENT STANDARDS OF EXCELLENCE IN THEIR RESPECTIVE REGIONS. CHEFS MAY BE FROM ANY KIND OF DINING ESTABLISHMENT AND MUST HAVE BEEN A WORKING CHEF FOR THE LAST FIVE YEARS. THE THREE MOST RECENT YEARS MUST HAVE BEEN SPENT IN THE REGION WHERE CHEF IS PRESENTLY WORKING." - James Beard Foundation


Furthermore, the 'SouthEast' region encompassed the following:
Georgia, Kentucky, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee, and West Virginia


and here's the list the board has compiled thus far:

Dean Corbett: Equus and Corbett's
Anthony Lamas: Seviche and Seviche Bistro
Daniel Stage: Le Relais
Todd Richards: the Oakroom
Fernando Martinez: Havana Rumba and Mojitos
Peng Looi: Asiatique and August Moon
Michael Paley: Proof on Main
Shawn Ward: Jack Fry's
Michael Ton: Basa - Modern Vietnamese
Jim Gerhardt: Limestone and Mike & Jimmy's Chophouse
Jeff Jarfi: Jarfi's Bistro and Jarfi's at Mellwood
Anoosh Shariat: FOH at Z's
Edward Lee: 610 Magnolia


based on the criteria set by the JBF,

the following are ineligible:
Fernando Martinez: Havana Rumba and Mojitos (HR opened in '04, i believe, and Mojitos Derby '07)
Michael Paley: Proof on Main (opened in March '06)
Michael Ton: Basa - Modern Vietnamese Basa (opened Derby '07)
Anoosh Shariat: FOH at Z's (is no longer working chef)


which leaves us with the following:

Dean Corbett: Equus and Corbett's
Anthony Lamas: Seviche and Seviche Bistro
Daniel Stage: Le Relais
Todd Richards: the Oakroom
Peng Looi: Asiatique and August Moon
Shawn Ward: Jack Fry's
Jim Gerhardt: Limestone and Mike & Jimmy's Chophouse
Jeff Jarfi: Jarfi's Bistro and Jarfi's at Mellwood
Edward Lee: 610 Magnolia



With all due respect to these chefs:


You guys truly fail to see the big picture here.
This list started out to look like a 'Best of Louisville' list
I'm not saying the chef's listed are not accomplished chefs in their own right, or cook horrible food... that's not what i'm trying to convey.


but can you guys honestly say that all of these chefs are cooking the best food or 'have set new or consistent standards of excellence' in Georgia, Kentucky, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee, and West Virginia?

seriously people.
there's a ton of chef's in this region who can cook circles better or equally around this list.

Putting some of these chefs on the list is like making a powder puff
football team and pitting them against NFL allstars.



Since apparently I'm the only person in the industry who has the gall to stand up and nominate his peers (and i encourage others to at least give some quality input), then so be it:



Dean Corbett: Equus and Corbett's
Dean has been doing nothing shy of excellence for 22 years now, I've hardly seen much outside local publications mentioning him and his staff's efforts... and i applaud the level of dedication without being stalled by lack of national recognition. That alone truly takes passion, heart and love for giving the guest the best. With the opening of Corbett's, he takes aim to raise the bar of fine dining in Louisville (and his own personal level of excellence) a rung higher.

Anthony Lamas: Seviche and Seviche Bistro
Anthony's work in this town has changed our entire dining public's perception of what Latin cuisine is/can be. Years ago, it was hard enough to convince people to eat sushi or other raw seafood (regardless of the definition of seviche - we all know it's mostly raw). People have embraced these culinary creations and these days it often seems the dining public has less qualms eating seviche than a burger. Hands down, one of the most influential chefs in Louisville (to the dining public) in the past five years

Todd Richards: the Oakroom
I don't think it's entirely fair (as an employee) to venture into details regarding why Todd deserves a nomination other than his accolades in and out of the kitchen. With that i will say this: Todd has not stopped with doing nothing shy of offering unfettered excellence in both cuisine and dining to Louisville. What Gerhardt and Cunha did by making the Oakroom a regional culinary landmark, Richards and Nutter have turned that to being progressive on a national level. Todd is one of the only chefs in Louisville i know who gives his cooks equal input on the menu development (i'm the pastry chef, and even i'm throwing out input on the savory food), and truly lets them grow and 'spread their wings' and becoming capable chefs in their own right. I've learned more in the past year about thinking about food than i did in the rest of my 9 years in the business. Not to mention being hand selected to compete on Iron Chef America (regardless of the outcome), which is a landmark event for Louisville chefs across the board getting added (and well deserved) free exposure.

Peng Looi: Asiatique and August Moon
Looi deserves this alone just for sheer determination and ambition. (not to mention his culinary talents). One of the most driven chefs i've ever had the pleasure to call boss, friend, and a mentor. The level of progressiveness i witnessed (and helped unfold) cuisine wise and business-wise over the course of three years in the kitchens of Asiatique and August Moon (also with that of chef de cuisine's Tuan Phan and Wing Tran) was incredible. Looi's hand-on involvement in numerous fund raising events for non profit groups over the years shows the breadth of his heart and generosity (and made a forever lasting impact on me to follow suit). The opening of August Moon in 1987, and Asiatique in 1994 effectively redrew the entire map of what Louisville saw in Asian cuisines. Much as Anthony Lamas is doing now with his Nuevo-Latino blend; Looi was doing 20+ years ago, and opening the door for adventurous upscale global dining for Louisville. He truly was and is to this day a visionary. (not to mention the best source of 'real-life' advice i have ever sought outside of my own father). With the impending opening of Asiatique: Asian Bistro he does nothing but set his scope and his positive vision further, reaching outside Louisville.

Edward Lee: 610 Magnolia
Edward Lee does a very nice job of staying just slightly below the radar.
You don't see too much local highlights of his work, and the occasional natioal media/press blurb. That said though, the guy does some of the best work food-wise in Louisville and all the while keeping a carefully modest distance from distraction. I've only spoke to him (very) briefly on a handful of occasions, and from my personal experiences and from those who have worked with him... he's incredibly driven to culinary excellence whether anyone cares or not. Edward Lee truly lives and breathes food.



I should note: all of these chefs have been invited to cook at the Beard House (an honor in itself), or have participated at JBF Out of House events.

Dean Corbett: Equus and Corbett's -
04/06 (Another Taste of Louisville)

Anthony Lamas: Seviche and Seviche Bistro -
08/02 (Rising Star of American Cuisine),
02/06 (Latino Amor Dinner),
07/07 (Nuevo Latino Bluegrass)

Todd Richards: the Oakroom -
02/07 (Best Hotel Chefs of America)

Peng Looi: Asiatique and August Moon -
09/03 (Wine Lovers' Dinner),
06/05 (Coordinating Chef - Taste of Malaysia),
04/06 (Coordinating Chef - Another Taste of Louisville),
01/07 (Friends of James Beard Benefit Kansas City, MO)

Edward Lee: 610 Magnolia -
03/05 (A Farm-to-Table Dinner),
11/05 (Wally Joe’s 11th Annual Friends of James Beard Benefit Cleveland, MS),
07/06 (Chefs & Champagne 2006 - A Tribute to Thomas Keller),
01/07 (Friends of James Beard Benefit Kansas City, MO)


if the nominated chef's can't be backed up with hard evidence or compelling narative, then what truly makes them 'Best Chef SouthEast'?




the real irony here for me and other chefs is that Kathy Cary made none of your lists despite being nominated for this same award in 2002, 2003, 2004, and 2006.

Coming back to Robin's initial comments regarding PR manipulation...
I've been almost surprised not to see Lynn's Paradise Cade nominated before.

It's amazing how a PR machine can throw you into the spotlight, and get you in for all kinds of awards.
Point in case: Proof on Main.
I literally couldn't open a publicly circulated, or a business-trade food mag for 6-9 months without seeing a multi-page feature on Proof.

Myriad dollars at work my friends.

That said, it's become the opinion of myself and other chef's in the city that Lilly's nomination over the past few years have been direct results of PR campaigns, or people doing quick references to old media spotlights.

How many times over the past few years have you guys seen national publications doing features on Louisville dining mention Lynn's Paradise Cafe or Lilly's if not both?

It's like people keep referencing the same highlighted keywords of 'Louisville Restaurants' from 1996.

(disclosure: all due respect to Lilly's; i think they do excellent cuisine, and a old-friend of mine is dinner sous chef there)


I think it's incredibly bold of the JBF to step up and realize that for years they haven't necessarily been being given a list of nominees that properly represents a regions - but rather represents who's willing to shell out more cash to their media/PR consultants.





after well over an hour of typing and editing,

...my sermon concludes. (for the time being)
Ethan Ray

I put vegetables in your desserts, white chocolate with your fish and other nonsense stuff that you think shouldn't make sense, but coax the nonsense into something that makes complete sense in your mouth. Just open your mind, mouth and eat.
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Kurt R.

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by Kurt R. » Thu Jan 10, 2008 2:21 pm

Ethan,
You have presented an outstanding commentary on this subject and I applaud you for your honesty. In retrospect to my earlier posting and based on the additional information you provided I would say we need to include Shawn Ward from Jack Fry's.
Shawn has consistently performed at a very high level in regards to taste, presentation and quality. Shawn in similar style to Jim Gerhardt has put a new twist on Southern Cuisine. I believe Shawn brings new life to old southern charm and for that reason warrants recognition.
I echo your comments about the others, but specifically support your narratives on Chef Dean Corbett and Chef Anthony Lamas. Based solely on innovation to the region Anthony would be a stand out. Anthony's Nuevo Latino style and innovative menus have greatly broadened the culinary offering in Louisville. In some opinion polls (Nationally) Anthony is ranked as one of the top 5 Chef in conteporary Latino cuisine.
Dean is outstanding and believe his innovation has broaden the overall scope of culinary knowledge to the Greater Louisville Community. With the introduction of Corbett's which I believe will raise the bar of Culinary stanadard in Louisville, Dean has really taken us to a new level. Corbett's may possibly be one of the best restaurant in the nation.
Each one of the Chefs mentioned has great knowledge and passion for the industry. I can't say that I personally can pick just one person.
The PR thing is disturbing, but unfortunately is the way things work sometimes. It appears as if the JB Foundation is aware and seeking a true representation which in itself is impressive.
Kurt


Character is measured by a series of split second decisions.
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David Clancy

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Re: and back onto my pulpit...

by David Clancy » Thu Jan 10, 2008 7:46 pm

Ethan Ray wrote:I've been trying to keep my mouth shut for a while on this; but this has gotta a little off track
(most of long backquote deleted)
Nice sermon Ethan: Damn,....I coulda been a contenda.....(of course, reinventing the wheel in New Albany is a much longer process than I thought so now I am downtrodden, broke, and disqualified!). My vote would go to Dean just for having the biggest B&*#s to head East. Guess their should be a category in JBF for B#@!s in culinary arts in which case, I would be a contenda........
David Clancy
Fabulous Old Louisville
(Is this your homework Larry?)
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Ethan Ray

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by Ethan Ray » Thu Jan 10, 2008 8:19 pm

...my pick for Best Chef South East:


Sean Brock of McGrady's Restaurant in Charleston, SC

Sean Brock's Bio

Sean Brock's blog: Ping Island Strike

McGrady's Restaurant website



Sean Brock and staff are creating some of (if not) the best food in the South East. Quite frankly, I'd put only two of the previously mentioned chefs in a category anywhere close to this guy and his crew.
I'll venture as far to say that the food coming out of the McGrady's kitchen is arguably the most innovative and refined food in the region.
Not to mention the food these guys cook in a single kitchen pays more respect to the ingredients used than half the restaurants in Louisville combined. (read his blog).
Ethan Ray

I put vegetables in your desserts, white chocolate with your fish and other nonsense stuff that you think shouldn't make sense, but coax the nonsense into something that makes complete sense in your mouth. Just open your mind, mouth and eat.
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