Why there are so many pizzerias, and why it won't quit

[Robin Garr]

From a news release from American Pizza Community, a trade group:

Pizza remains a top choice because it is convenient and unique – made-to-order, handmade, freshly-baked, high-quality ingredients. Consider a few pizza industry fast facts:

* There are 3 billion pizzas sold in the U.S. each year.
* There are more than 73,000 pizzerias in the U.S.
* 94 percent of the U.S. population eats pizza (Parade Magazine 2012).
* Americans rank pizza fourth on the most-craved food list (American Dairy Association random-sampling survey).
* The average family eats pizza at home 30 times a year (PMQ Monthly).
* The most popular days for ordering pizza are Super Bowl Sunday, Halloween, the day before Thanksgiving, New Year's Eve and New Year's Day.

While those numbers sound huge, if you look at it another way they seem small. There are about 325 million people in the US, that means that each one of them only have to eat 9 pizzas to reach that total number. That's really not that many when you think about it.

[Robin Garr]

Point is, though, pizza is popular, and most people love it.

And here's a question: We all laugh at so many pizza places opening. But it seems that almost all of 'em stick! I can only think of a handful that have closed in the last few years. Naked Pizza, which had an odd product and parking issues. Uncle Maddio's, which gave way to Fontleroy's. I can't think offhand of any others that have closed. (I'm not talking about ancient history here, but during the modern pizza boom.)

So, contrary to the opinions of all us wise gurus who don't have to meet a payroll I'd say that pizza in the city's drinking zones is still a good investment.

I think the general public's threshold for what qualifies as "good pizza" is extremely low right now. (much like the McDonaldization of the burger) So most pizzas are "good enough" and having a "good enough" pizza on every street is like having a McDonalds or Starbucks on the same street. We don't hold out for really great 'za, we just take whatever is close and good enough.

We do it. We have Little Caesars and Papa right down the hill. Coals is only 10m up the street and Clifton's, our favorite is even closer, but we still settle for "good enough" pizza more often that I would like.

So as long as they keep opening "good enough" pizza places, people will keep going to them. Honestly at this point, there are so many mid-range pizza places, I can't tell one from another (Pie-ology, Uncle Maddios, Blaze, etc.). It's like the Five Guys syndrome of 5 years ago, only with pizza.

I feel like pizza is so popular because it's a safe choice. It's approachable by everyone. There aren't any exotic foreign vocabularies you need to learn to order it. The ingredients are common and easily added or omitted at the diners discretion. Everyone from toddlers to grandparents will eat it. Other than understanding how yeast and gluten work in making a dough, there's no specialized training required to be a pizza cook or restaurant owner. Anyone with a little money and desire can throw
cheese and canned tomatoes on a disc of dough and start a pizzeria.

Now, don't get me wrong, I love pizza. It's probably in my top five favorite foods. Having lived in New York for 2.5 years has made me quite picky as to pizza I'll actually eat in Louisville. But, I'll eat pizza everyday if it's actually a legitimate slice.

I feel like the proliferation of pizza joints in this city casts a light onto the reality of the Louisville food scene. On one end of the spectrum you've got bands of foodies that go crazy anytime a popular chef/restaurateur thinks about a new concept and pretty much fetishize the craft of being a chef. The press machine rolls along touting these revolutionaries of the culinary world and the creativity of the chef. But then the average person goes to one of these places and maybe they don't like what it is or they don't understand it so they don't return. You can't operate a successful long term restaurant by catering to only those adventurous and in the know eaters.

People in this city like to think it's a wide open food town but by looking at the saturation of pizza, Mexican, Southern, BBQ, sandwich, Italian, Chinese, and sushi in this city it's obvious that the majority of people aren't as open or adventurous when it comes to cuisine as some of us would like to think.

Sure you've got restaurants like Decca, Rye, Proof on Main, and a few other establishments that like to push the envelope, but at the end of the day, that progress is thrown into a mix of fairly approachable dishes. I don't feel anyone would be able to operate a successful offal centered restaurant in this city. A majority of people aren't going to embrace the Puerto Rican gentleman selling papa rellenos from the food truck because, even though he's selling delicious fried mashed potato balls, they're not familiar with it.

Pizza is familiar and until people as a whole begin to explore and open up to new culture and cuisines, I guess I'll see you at The Post.

I think the definition of a good, diverse culinary scene is quite subjective. If one wants to dig deeper into the ethnic foods, one has to haunt the ethnic stores. Just one example--the non-descript plaza at Bardstown and Watterson Trail.

The Indian store goes far back then another section meets iit to the left. There is a butcher area with whole goats and other such meats. There is also an area where they put out samosas and things of this sort. I've stood picknicking with my kids and and a visiting couple right outside the door eating delicious samosa, sauces and malt drinks.

The Mexican store (carneceria) has a butcher area with parts of animals and sausages you won't see easily around town. In the very back there is a small restaurant with mainly traditional foods setting out. The soups and other plates you won't find easily around the more obvious dining areas. I even saw paletas and other such stuff.

Just down the street go to Dino's and get fresh -baked flatbreads, spinach and other types of pies, fresh hummas etc.

There are just a few examples.....

We also need to take into consideration the beer, wine, bourbon, and general cocktail choices around town. Not too many places offer 50 -150 bourbons in nearly 30 different places.

Also, quality and consistancy for the price. What are the steakhouse choices and prices? Seafood? High end and low end? Freshness, farm to table? Vegetarian, vegan, gluten free choices? ambiance, food, and prices for kids? How far of a drive? Parking? ..........

I think its the gestalt of the scene that makes a place a foodie destination. I don't think Louisville needs to compare itself to anyplace else. It just is what it is. And I guess we can add "pizza" to bourban horses, basketball and bluegrass!

[Robin Garr]

... one has to haunt the ethnic stores. Just one example--the non-descript plaza at Bardstown and Watterson Trail. ...

Or Buechel! When Ashley Day and I did that piece for LEO a short while back, we were amazed to discover how much ethnic culinary diversity is hidden in plain sight along Old Bardstown Road in particular, and really, all the way from Funmi's in Gardiner Lane shopping center out to DakShin, the Mexican grocery and the Gordita trailer in Eastland.

Point is, though, pizza is popular, and most people love it.

I can only think of a handful that have closed in the last few years.

One that surprised me was Papalino's on Baxter. That place was always packed, and I'd constantly see people drooling for Papalino's pizza on my Facebook feed. I'm sure they had a good reason to move, but I can't imagine a more ideal place for pizza than right there on Baxter, so close to so many bars.

It seemed like a can't miss. I guess you never know with restuarants!

[Robin Garr]

One that surprised me was Papalino's on Baxter. That place was always packed, and I'd constantly see people drooling for Papalino's pizza on my Facebook feed. I'm sure they had a good reason to move, but I can't imagine a more ideal place for pizza than right there on Baxter, so close to so many bars.

It seemed like a can't miss. I guess you never know with restuarants!

My sense of that, Mike, and this is only based on limited information, is that the concept was good, the chef-in-charge was outstanding, but as time went by and he got engaged in other creative ventures, the show was left more and more in the hands of the young hipsters on the crew, who brought variable levels of commitment to the job. The result was a frightening inconsistency that left diners uncertain whether they would encounter awesomely good or awesomely bad pizza on any given visit. Crowds dwindled, the corporate venture divided leaving Baxter and Springhurst under separate management, and Baxter eventually withered.

In shorter and probably more accurate summation, "It's not always about the food."

One that surprised me was Papalino's on Baxter. That place was always packed, and I'd constantly see people drooling for Papalino's pizza on my Facebook feed. I'm sure they had a good reason to move, but I can't imagine a more ideal place for pizza than right there on Baxter, so close to so many bars.

It seemed like a can't miss. I guess you never know with restuarants!

My sense of that, Mike, and this is only based on limited information, is that the concept was good, the chef-in-charge was outstanding, but as time went by and he got engaged in other creative ventures, the show was left more and more in the hands of the young hipsters on the crew, who brought variable levels of commitment to the job. The result was a frightening inconsistency that left diners uncertain whether they would encounter awesomely good or awesomely bad pizza on any given visit. Crowds dwindled, the corporate venture divided leaving Baxter and Springhurst under separate management, and Baxter eventually withered.

In shorter and probably more accurate summation, "It's not always about the food."

Agreed. Though, based on my few experiences, I'd say young hipsters on the crew who brought variable levels of drugs to the job. I was one of those unfortunately people who seemed to get awesomely bad pizza. My last visit, shortly before they closed, was possibly the worst pizza I'd ever had in my life -- even worse than those dessicated mini-pizzas from Kroger. But it had to once be great, based on how many people, here and elsewhere, raved about it.

[Robin Garr]

I'd say young hipsters on the crew who brought variable levels of drugs to the job.

Yeah, that was present, albeit unspoken, in my response.

Teena's Pizza recently closed their Poplar Level Road location after a two year run. I tried three times but I think they were undercooking their pies and not in line with the latest pizza trends. I'm hoping someone will move in and take advantage of the old style wall ovens that were there from Frolio's days.

All of these pizzerias and my husband still won't eat any pizza in the Louisville metro area.....big sigh......lol

Edited to say that we haven't tried Pizza Donisi or The Post yet and I hear good things about both.

All of these pizzerias and my husband still won't eat any pizza in the Louisville metro area.....big sigh......lol

Edited to say that we haven't tried Pizza Donisi or The Post yet and I hear good things about both.

What in the world is he holding out for? Some people just can't be pleased.

I mean, I get longing for real, authentic pizza like you used to have "back home" (NYC, Chicago, St. Louis, whatever), but even if Louisville doesn't have what you consider the real thing, surely everyone can find something enjoyable from all the options we have here.