CJ give four stars to lunch at Brasserie Provence

[Robin Garr]

I like Brasserie Provence, a lot, but I think the Binghams are spinning in their graves over the CJ reviewer granting 4 stars to an eatery featured in her book.

http://www.courier-journal.com/story/en ... /75176652/

I didn't know she had a book on the market although I wouldn't buy it anyway based on what I've seen of her writing in the CJ. Like you I really like Brasserie Provence but I'm really not sure I would give it 4 stars. Their menu is very well executed but lacks originality in my opinion since in reality it's just a great collection of French classics.

I think that about 85% of the time when I have a chef's original, creative take on a classic, I find myself wishing I'd just had a well-executed version of the classic.

Case in point: the Hot Brown. There are eighteen billion different variations on the Hot Brown to be had in this town, and none of them is as good as the original.

I didn't know she had a book on the market although I wouldn't buy it anyway based on what I've seen of her writing in the CJ. Like you I really like Brasserie Provence but I'm really not sure I would give it 4 stars. Their menu is very well executed but lacks originality in my opinion since in reality it's just a great collection of French classics.

Four volumes of Secrets of Louisville Chefs. Also Secrets of Nashville and Chicago books.
100 Fascinating Women of Louisville.

I think that about 85% of the time when I have a chef's original, creative take on a classic, I find myself wishing I'd just had a well-executed version of the classic.

Case in point: the Hot Brown. There are eighteen billion different variations on the Hot Brown to be had in this town, and none of them is as good as the original.

I tend to agree with you, here. I don't like it when there is "over chefing" of the foods. Classics are classics because they are done well. One can be creative but still offer a no nonsense classic version of whatever dish it may be--lassagna, pho, pizza, hotbrown, cassoulet, etc.

[Robin Garr]

I didn't know she had a book on the market although I wouldn't buy it anyway based on what I've seen of her writing in the CJ.

Steve posted the particulars. I guess it's so hard for me because I remember all the Times critics under the Binghams - who became CJ critics after the afternoon paper closed down - were reporters who worked full-time for the paper and did all we could to dine anonymously, or where that was not possible (because photos got passed around), as much on the down-low as possible. To have a free-lance critic not otherwise on staff (Gannett's policy since their arrival), who has a history in restaurant PR, is friends with chefs and has written (or assembled photos and text) in four books about Louisville restaurants as well as participating with local chefs in production of a restaurant show on cable TV, just makes me sad because it's so much against the Binghams' policy of having the critic represent the consumer, not the industry.

I agree with the stars. I've been many times for lunch, dinner ( surprised with music and free dessert), and on two special wine dinners. Every time,the food is fresh and delicious, service perfect and owner Guy an outstanding host/owner. I find no reason at all to fault them in any way. I've spent many weeks in France and know that the beauty of the cuisine is fresh produce, herbs and simple cooking to enhance the dish. They have captured this perfectly.

[Robin Garr]

I agree with the stars. I've been many times for lunch, dinner ( surprised with music and free dessert), and on two special wine dinners. Every time,the food is fresh and delicious, service perfect and owner Guy an outstanding host/owner. I find no reason at all to fault them in any way. I've spent many weeks in France and know that the beauty of the cuisine is fresh produce, herbs and simple cooking to enhance the dish. They have captured this perfectly.

Actually, every post in this discussion has agreed with the stars, and so do I. The issue here isn't the stars. The issue is that the "new" Courier-Journal sees no problem with having a PR person who included a restaurant in her book then giving it a rave review in a column that's traditionally been considered insulated from influence.

Robin, Brasserie is certainly not the only restaurant featured in any of Ms. Miller's books to receive a 4 star rating! Why is it suddenly an issue??? I feel your comments (both here and on FB) definitely put a cloud on Brasserie's review, which really isn't fair to them. They deserve the 4 stars and not your lingering resentment against the CJ!

[Robin Garr]

Carol, I'm not sure why I have to keep repeating myself, but briefly told:

* Yes, Brasserie deserves four stars, or at least 3 1/2.

* This is entirely separate from the issue of the CJ employing a restaurant PR person and writer of "positive" books about local chefs as the - well, I can't say "critic," but "reviewer" - who then non-anonymously grants high ratings to many of her past (or present?) clients.

* I think it is entirely reasonable for HotBytes - and for me - to critique the reviewers, with the understanding that this is an open discussion forum. It's fine to push back against my observation about the reviewer's appearance of conflict and the fact that this is something that the Binghams would never have allowed. If you think I'm wrong about this, fine, but don't attribute it to "bitterness." It's a current issue that has nothing to do with me. Also, It feels a little less reasonable for me to have to take pushback against my critique of the review process simply because we like the restaurant that got the good rating. Am I missing something here?

Remember the quote, "Just the facts mam."?

That unbiased journalism is dead. I don't think Robin is bitter, I think he is , along with others , myself included, depressed or at least disappointed. Unvarnished, unbiased journalism which was once the staple of reporting is now all but extinct. News and reviews are slanted towards whatever turns a buck. I honestly think most people don't have a clue as to how much marketing we are subjected to. In this case it matters little because most people would agree Brasserie Provence deserves multiple stars. But what about other reviews? (Shrugs)

Robin, I understand your concerns and I think they're justified. I don't think a responsible news outlet should handle reviews the way the C-J does.

That said, I think some of the pushback you may be getting here is tied to the fact that, since Ms. Miller took over, every single one of her reviews has been posted here, with negative comments. Either the review itself is poorly done, or the stars don't match the review, or, if there's nothing wrong with the review itself, she shouldn't be doing it because she's a PR flack. At this point, after so many, it feels like beating a dead horse, and it's beginning to be distasteful.

I think there'd be less controversy here if we just let Ms. Miller be, for a while. She's not great at what she does, and she has conflicts of interest. Got it. Can we move on?

But, then again, this is the Internet, and what are forums for if not controversy?

[Robin Garr]

since Ms. Miller took over, every single one of her reviews has been posted here, with negative comments

Actually not true, Jeff, and I'm surprised, given your laudable penchant for accuracy, that you didn't look it up. I mention it when something stands out. It seems that there's been more of a target-rich environment lately.

I think there'd be less controversy here if we just let Ms. Miller be, for a while. She's not great at what she does, and she has conflicts of interest. Got it. Can we move on?

But, then again, this is the Internet, and what are forums for if not controversy?

It's a little more focused than that, too. We've been running this website since 1994 and this forum since the late '90s, and throughout that period, I've sought to make it a place for discussion of all things local eats. That certainly includes critique of the Newspaper of Record's reviews. Ms. Reigler came in for weekly commentary because she so richly earned it. Marty did a pretty good job; I was not a fan of his prose style, but he got the job done. I rarely critiqued. I didn't write much about Ms. Miller at all at first. As it became clear that there was a lot to critique there, I began paying closer attention and posting a "review the reviewer" frequently, when I saw something worth mentioning. I honestly TRY not to be snarky. (And never snide. Compare the deceased local Eater if you want to understand the difference between snark and snide.) But yeah, writing about local food, including local food reviewers, is what we do here, and there's nothing new about that.

That makes sense. I apologize for exaggerating!

[Robin Garr]

That makes sense. I apologize for exaggerating!

No apologies needed! I just wanted to set the record straight(er).