Time flies, things change and 211 Clover Lane stays flawless LEO's Eats with Robin GarrEoast half-chicken at 211 Clover Lane
Sooner or later, every restaurant critic - or every restaurant critic who's paying attention, anyway - confronts a dilemma: With so many restaurants and so little time, it's hard to get back to those reliable old favorites.
Your heart wants to go back and indulge in the comfortable places that you love. Your brain - and your urge to begrudge extra calorie intake - pulls you the other way. So, assuming that a new review won't add much to the wisdom imparted by your last review, you head off in pursuit of the next big thing; and everything stays the same. Until it doesn't.
Take 211 Clover Lane, for instance. I love this little place! A local landmark since 1992, it's an understated, elegant whiff of Provence, located in sylvan surroundings just off the pulsing core of St. Matthews' booming eat-drink-and-party zone. I'll drop in for a delicious brunch on occasion, just for fun, without a thought of a review.
The other day I ran across my last review in the archives: Nov. 14, 2007! OK, that's a little too long. So what could be finer than a return visit and an updated review, which you're reading just short of eight years later.
So, what's changed? On one hand, not that much. Everything I said above still applies: Pretty, understated, elegant, located in sylvan surroundings that belie its proximity to the railroad, major traffic arteries and the bright lights of Trinity High School's sprawling campus.
On the other hand, a few little things have changed: a new chef, for instance, and a subtle redo that kept the mood of understated elegance but transformed the bar, in particular, from a cozy little hangout to a beautiful, larger club-like space. ...
Read the full review on LouisvilleHotBytes,
http://www.louisvillehotbytes.com/?p=5396See this column also in LEO Weekly:
http://www.leoweekly.com/2015/10/time-f ... -flawless/211 Clover LaneThe Colony Center
211 Clover Lane
896-9570
211clover.com
Facebook: bit.ly/211CloverFB
Robin Garr's rating: 92 points