LEO's Eats with Robin Garr
Seviche's Churrascos de Argentina
This time it was special. A birthday, an anniversary, and I wanted to treat my bride to the city’s best. So who’s No. 1? It’s gotta be Seviche.
We all know that this city is blessed with a grand buffet of great restaurants, with 20 or more that can dominate on any given day. But Chef Anthony Lamas’ pan-Latino gastronomic temple on Bardstown Road rings my chimes consistently loud and clear.
So, Seviche it would be! And then I’m fooling around on Facebook, and there’s Lamas, checking in from … Bogotá, Colombia!? “I’ll be out of the country until Aug. 16,” the peripatetic chef wrote. “Inspiring young cooks, and being inspired myself by this beautiful country!”
Well, shucks and durn! Would it be fair to review a top local restaurant, knowing that the boss is on the road again? I thought about this for at least 60 seconds. Why, hell yes, it would! It’s easy to look good when things are rocking, but one real test of a restaurant’s deep quality is how well the team functions when El Jefe is away.
With top Louisville chefs like Lamas and 610 Magnolia’s Ed Lee shuttling around the nation for television appearances, book tours and competitions, it’s entirely fair to ask what they leave behind: a well-oiled machine or a noisy train wreck?
Knowing of the strong team that powers the back and the front of the house at Seviche, I wasn’t in much doubt. But I’m not paid to guess, so off we went … and to my delight, Team Seviche was rocking it. Seviche scores on all the fundamentals. ...
Read the full review on LouisvilleHotBytes,
http://www.louisvillehotbytes.com/?p=5347
See this column also in LEO Weekly:
http://www.leoweekly.com/2015/08/sevich ... hefs-away/
Seviche
1538 Bardstown Road
473-8560
http://sevicherestaurant.com
Seviche on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/sevicherestaurant
Robin Garr's rating: 99 points
