Craft House: "You're not really here for the food, are you, Bob?" LEO's Eats with Robin GarrGriddled cheese at Craft House
Remember the old joke about a hunter's repeated efforts to bag a giant grizzly bear? It's a little too long and risque to quote here in full, but it ends with the bear lovingly whispering, "You're not really here for the hunting, are you, Bob?"
Craft House in Crescent Hill is kind of like that too. It's a delightful neighborhood hangout; and with 40-plus draft beer selections made by a baker's dozen local microbreweries, it ranks among the city's top destinations for locavore suds. But I don't think people really come for the food.
Although I admire its purported commitment to local and organic fare, I'm seeing Craft House as more a destination for beer. The fare is reliable, reasonably affordable, never awful but rarely exciting. It seems best suited to lay down a base for the beer: "Meh. Get me another pint."
Don't get me wrong. I like Craft House. It gives me the warm fuzzies to have such an amiable eatery within walking distance of my home, even if it has dramatically increased the difficulty of finding an evening parking space along that stretch of Frankfort. I watched eagerly over the sumer as workers gutted the old Darkstar Tavern, opening up the lofty exposed-brick room from stem to stern and dropping in a beautiful new bar.
Close readers will recall that we dropped in for a quick preview on opening night a few months ago (LEO Weekly, Sept. 3, 2014) with similar, albeit preliminary findings: A Caesar salad was palatable; oyster hushpuppies looked like undersize versions of the iconic Louisville "rolled" oyster but were almost devoid of oyster flavor; an eggplant-based veggie burger was just okay.
Our more recent visit, after allowing a few months for the kitchen to hit its stride, yielded similar findings. The atmosphere was fine, the service exemplary, casual as you'd expect of a beer-based venue but right on point; and three beers hit the spot ... Our food picks, though, repeated the earlier experience: Palatable, yes, but somehow lacking the soul that pushes first-rate cookery beyond the ordinary. ...
Read the full review on LouisvilleHotBytes,
http://www.louisvillehotbytes.com/?p=5186And in LEO Weekly:
http://www.leoweekly.com/2015/01/craft- ... -food-bob/Craft House 2636 Frankfort Ave.
895-9400
http://crafthousebrews.comhttps://facebook.com/crafthousebrewsRobin Garr's rating: 81 points