by Robin Garr » Sun Aug 25, 2013 1:37 pm
I admire what the guy is doing from a food anthropology perspective, and it certainly makes sense for him to offer it as an option in his post at a reservation restaurant (which I assume is fueled by tourist andor casino traffic).
But at the risk of being non-PC, when he talks about pre-Columbian indigenous cookery, he's talking about hunter-gatherer cultures with limited culinary resources. Sure, those cultures are worthy of respect, and their folkways worth preserving. But I don't see the subtance for a culinary revival - or a him trend - in American Indian cookery, or indigeous Amazonian or Australian or Melanesian or Inuit either. Fascinating niche, worth exploring. But I can't say it surprised me, or, frankly, appals me to learn that NYC Zagat does not list any "Native American" restaurants. (A term, by the way, that reservation activists have often told me they consider patriarchal and prefer not to have imposed on them.)
