LEO's Eats with Robin Garr

We rolled up to our destination in the gathering darkness, and I found a parking spot at the curb out front. I turned, looked up, and ... wow! This looks just like our old neighborhood in New York City!
It's a sturdy, three-story block of brick, not brownstone -- visualize Queens, not Greenwich Village -- with cozy lights in apartment windows on the upper floors, and busy storefronts opening on the street: a meat market, an Italian gelato shop and a family-run Chinese eatery.
OK, it's not quite the same. There's not much traffic, not a yellow cab in sight, and the street is litter-free. There's not a speck of graffiti around, and no heavy burglar bars pulled down over dark shop windows. Then I turned and looked the other way and saw rows of modern subdivision colonials stacked into a slightly too orderly planned urban-look streetscape. Oh, yeah. We're in Norton Commons, aren't we?
Still, it made me feel good for a minute there. And the simple Chinese delights within Tea Station made us feel pretty good, too, warming our hearts and tummies on a chilly night.
Tea Station, which bills itself as a "Chinese bistro," represents an Asian genre that was once common in our town but has largely disappeared from view: a quality Chinese restaurant run by a friendly Chinese family that offers a good selection of Chinese and Chinese-American fare in an attractive environment where you are more likely to dine in with china, flatware and cloth napkins than to grab Styrofoam boxes for takeout.
Tea Station differs a bit from the current crop of chef-driven Chinese destination eateries where chefs boasting old-country credentials offer even Westerners an "authentic" menu featuring goodies like sea cucumber and fish maw.
Chef Paul Yang, rather, limits his bill of fare to the gently adapted Sichuanese and other regional dishes like those that Louisville considered cutting-edge when it first arrived here back in the '70s and '80s. But Yang doesn't need to brag about culinary credentials; his craft shows in every dish.
Read the full review on LouisvilleHotBytes,
http://www.louisvillehotbytes.com/tea-s ... -and-tummy
And in LEO Weekly:
http://leoweekly.com/dining/tea-station ... -and-tummy
Tea Station
9422 Norton Commons Blvd.
423-1202
http://teastationbistro.com
Rating: 85