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LEO/LHB Eats: Eating for two (or more) at Buca di Beppo

by Robin Garr » Wed Nov 21, 2007 11:58 am

<table border="0" align="left" width="310"><tr><td><img src="http://www.louisvillehotbytes.com/buca07.jpg" border="1" align="left"></td></tr><tr><td>Buca di Beppo is notorious for its zany, tongue-in-cheek New Jersey-style Italian-restaurant décor and its huge portions of Italian-American dishes. The restaurant recently launched a new "Buca Mio" ("My Buca") menu that features smaller portions meant to feed a single diner. LEO Photo by Nicole Pullen.</td></tr></table>LEO's Eats with Louisville HotBytes
Eating for two (or more) at Buca di Beppo

My friends know me as the un-chained guy, an obligate foodie with a strong preferential option for locally owned and operated eateries, where you'll find a distinct local flavor, and where you'll find the host on the premises, working without strings being pulled by accountants and lawyers in a distant corporate office.

My reasoning should be obvious: While chains may provide consistency and a predictable experience, the heavy hand of the bean counter and the cold reality of the quarterly balance sheet almost invariably inspire corner-cutting, and this is as true in the restaurant industry as it is in, well, the newspaper business.

Still, it wouldn't make sense to avoid chain dining entirely - heaven knows, it's popular - and I might miss some good eats. Here and there around the Metro, and particularly in the chain-rich environment of the East End, there's decent dining to be found in at least a few of the big-name brands.

One of the best bets, in my experience, is Buca di Beppo ...

Full reports in LEO and on LouisvilleHotBytes.
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robert szappanos

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by robert szappanos » Wed Nov 21, 2007 2:25 pm

See it did not kill you to do....At least I will say this the first three paragraphs....although not really needed...shows your bias right up front. So anyone out there can read the reast if the report with a grain of salt...but atleast you did like this place....although the food prtions are way to large... :D
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by Robin Garr » Wed Nov 21, 2007 2:34 pm

robert szappanos wrote:See it did not kill you to do....At least I will say this the first three paragraphs....although not really needed...shows your bias right up front. So anyone out there can read the reast if the report with a grain of salt...but atleast you did like this place....although the food prtions are way to large... :D


Ah, so predictable! It's like shooting fish in a barrel! :twisted:
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by robert szappanos » Wed Nov 21, 2007 2:36 pm

You should know...KINGFISH.. :D
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by robert szappanos » Wed Nov 21, 2007 2:37 pm

And actually you are right...Your reviews ARE so predictable.... :D
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by Ron Johnson » Wed Nov 21, 2007 3:02 pm

Robert, only you could complain about Robin's treatment of chains when he gives a chain a glowing review. Robin and others, including me, have been complimentary of many chain restaurants, but I notice that you always ignore those posts so you can drone on about all the alleged chain haters on this site.

I thought this review would finally please you, but no . . .
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by Steve Magruder » Wed Nov 21, 2007 3:22 pm

I've been to Buca di Beppo once myself, and I have to report my eating experience was lackluster.

While I really like the decor, it's very noisy inside. Perhaps I just don't like eating with tons of seeming loudmouths surrounding me - although they are probably not being loudmouths on purpose - it's just that the restaurant isn't designed to muffle ambient noise much at all.

My appetizer, Bruschetta, was excellent and perhaps amongst the best I ever had, and I have eaten real Bruschetta made by a Sicilian cook who happened to be the mother of my former boyfriend, but I digress. But the appetizer was where the "good eatin'" stopped.

My entree, whatever it was, was mediocre. I know this because I can't remember what I had. And even worse, their salad was plentiful, but very plain and nearly flavorless. The dessert delivered was plentiful as well, but honestly, very unremarkable as far as desserts go.

So, if you like to go to a place where earplugs are a must, and you like mediocrity in spades, go to Buca di Beppo.

That's my review. :)
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by Ron Johnson » Wed Nov 21, 2007 3:31 pm

"Mediocrity in Spades" This should be the slogan for Cracker Barrel.
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by Charles W. » Wed Nov 21, 2007 3:34 pm

It was a good review. But if I were editing it, I'd have condensed the first three paragraphs into one sentence at most--perhaps deleted them entirely, even though my own thoughts mirror those paragraphs almost completely.

Robin often comments on Marty's use of words and why he chooses to use his precious space on marginalia--those comments seem appropriate here.
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by Robin Garr » Wed Nov 21, 2007 4:22 pm

Charles W. wrote:It was a good review. But if I were editing it, I'd have condensed the first three paragraphs into one sentence at most--perhaps deleted them entirely, even though my own thoughts mirror those paragraphs almost completely.

Robin often comments on Marty's use of words and why he chooses to use his precious space on marginalia--those comments seem appropriate here.


Noted, but it's also fair to point out that LEO lets me have about 1,200 words per week, exactly double the CJ's usual absolute maximum (and, if I wish, I can even expand beyond that in the LouisvilleHotBytes online edition), so I have the liberty of being able to play around a little without having to cut into the meat of the food review.

Still, the "long lead" is a writer's indulgence that tight editors often hit with the weed whacker ...
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by Mark R. » Wed Nov 21, 2007 4:36 pm

Either their food has changed a lot recently or my taste in Italian is much different than Robin's. We have been to Buca di Beppo several times and agree with the statement "Mediocrity in Spades". Other than the huge portion sizes I see no reason to eat here. There are many other better Italian Restaurants in town both chain and non chain so I don't see any reason to go to this one. On the other hand I see lots of reasons not to go including the noise level, the quality of the food and service and the huge portion sizes! It's just my opinion but I believe many others agree with this opinion.
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by Charles W. » Wed Nov 21, 2007 4:40 pm

There are several restaurants I go to specifically because they are quiet. But there are other places where I enjoy the loud, energetic atmosphere. I wouldn't go to Buca when I wanted to have a deep conversation with someone, but a lout atmosphere can be fun for a festive occasion.
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by Chris M » Wed Nov 21, 2007 4:41 pm

robert szappanos wrote:And actually you are right...Your reviews ARE so predictable.... :D


I have to disagree, because I would never have guessed Robin would give Buca an 84. Based on my last visit (a few years ago) I would have given them maybe a 74.

I might have to drop back in and give them another try.

I thought it was a very Fox News review. "Fair and balanced".

:twisted:
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by Aaron Newton » Wed Nov 21, 2007 4:42 pm

Buca's long been a favorite of ours, as much for nostalgia as anything else. We've rarely had issues with the food. While it isn't the best food, it's decent enough and it's just a fun place for us to go sometimes.
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by Robin Garr » Wed Nov 21, 2007 4:44 pm

Mark R. wrote:Either their food has changed a lot recently or my taste in Italian is much different than Robin's.


I'm always happy to be challenged and don't expect everyone to agree with me! :) I do have a strong background in <i>real</i> Italian, both from travel and cooking; and although I'm a Heinz 57 American, there's enough Ellis Island Italian in my family tree that I know a good "gravy" when I taste one. I've had good experiences at Buca, and would rate it above most of the chains for what it does: Red-sauce Italian-American comfort food that doesn't purport to be "Northern" Italian or undefined "Tuscan."

I've had excellent service there consistently; I think I addressed portion size in detail; and I don't mind a noisy restaurant environment where people are having fun, whether it's Buca or Cafe Lou Lou or the Granville Inn on a game night.

As I said, though, no offense ... I'm happy to talk about my columns, and take constructive criticism, too.
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