Doug Davis wrote:But selling 20 varieties of just IPA's, is like selling twenty Cabernets, but no whites or anything else, and thinking you have a good wine list. You dont.
I know this thread is supposed to be about beer, but actually, the above quote points to a problem I find with most wine lists in this city. It's not about the grape, it's more about the region, or better yet, the
style of the wine. Ryan's desire to see more Viognier or Gewurz on lists reflects his preference for aromatic whites, and their lack of representation (Ryan - no offense, as a Somm, I am not at all interested in pairing that sort of wine with any variety of smoked meats - so don't worry about putting them on your list!). In the same way that Doug describes sizing up beer selections based on his recent experience, I can count on one hand the number of restaurants in this city that have well put together wine lists, both in terms of displaying an understanding of how wine should work with the cuisine of the restaurant, and demonstrating that the wine buyer/bar manager has some understanding of wine in the broader sense.
Ryan alludes to something without saying it outright. One has to take under consideration the relationships a restaurant is able to build with its vendors. Depending on how you look at the wholesale climate here, there are either 3 or 4 primary beer distributors you can work with, then 1-2 additional outliers. Coordinate that with the number of tap lines you want to run, and/or the refrigerated storage space you can dedicate to bottles, plus seasonal availability, plus trends you clientele buy into (hoppy beers, perhaps?), plus turnover, since beer is a product that has shelf life (again, the number of places that can effectively serve/market bottle and/or cask conditioned beers in this market is really, really small) and things can get kinda complicated. A restaurant does not equal a liquor store. Heck, at the small shop I am the buyer for, we have very limited space for beer, as our focus is wine. So what we do is very targeted. We can't make everyone happy, and most responsible beverage program managers know that too. And if their liquor sales numbers aren't looking too bad, they don't have too much motivation to please those in the minority who have kinda uppity tastes (sorry, but though beer geekdom is growing, you are still in the minority).
For my part, I basically expect to be let down when it comes to the wine side of things when dining out. Or just go to the same 3-4 places, over and over again, which I'm not especially interested in doing. I live with it, and am comfortable just being a snob, and grumbling to myself when I'm really unhappy. Beverage programs that get it right with regard to beer, wine
and cocktails? You probably won't even find that in most restaurants in the "A" markets (not actually my term - something I heard at a recent trade show, and no, Louisville, however well regarded as a food destination city, is not considered part of those markets).
I would guess that you are trying to observe some decorum and not specifically call out the restaurant that let you down. But it actually might serve everyone better if you did. If the owner or manager is on the forum, they could have a discussion with you about why their beer selection is the way it is. The rest of us could get an idea if we're talking about burgers or white tablecloth, or something in between. It would put some perspective on what you're talking about, was it one place, or is this your experience over a number of different beer lists?