Ghyslain "sophisticated"?

[Robin Garr]

Since a while after Marty took over the CJ's dining critic post,I decided that he was such an improvement over his predecessor that it would just be snarky to continue doing "truth squad" follow-ups to discuss the weekly review, so I've kept generally silent.

I really do need to raise up a portion of today's Ghyslain review for discussion, though.

In America, French food has often been viewed as a complex, sophisticated, expensive cuisine that’s slightly intimidating (think of all those movies that make fun of an American rube who’s befuddled by a menu and winds up with some preposterous dish on his plate).

But in truth, French country cooking is pretty much like American country cooking — and when French cooking is filtered through a Quebecois perspective, you wind up with a cuisine that is fundamentally practical and simple, while still striving to satisfy our cravings for excellent flavor and beautiful presentation.

That’s the strength of Ghyslain’s approach, and the reason his Louisville restaurants have become magnets for diners who are sophisticated enough to appreciate simplicity.

Well, golleeee! So all this time when I've gauged Ghyslain as a slightly more pretentious variation on Panera, I've just been showing off my lack of sophistication? I know I've never really claimed to be sophisticated, but still.

Your thoughts? I know we've debated Ghyslain's popularity before, but ... you've got to be sophisticated to get it? Really?

It would seem to indicate that you have to be sophisticated enough to NOT be sophisticated to appreciate it. Which begs the question, " is there such a thing as a double negative in attitude?"

[Robin Garr]

It would seem to indicate that you have to be sophisticated enough to NOT be sophisticated to appreciate it. Which begs the question, " is there such a thing as a double negative in attitude?"

Some days I have a negative attitude. Other days, not so much. But only rarely do I have a double negative attitude. But maybe that's just me.

I really am having trouble wrapping my mind around this French-Canadian theme, though. I guess in my travels to Montréal and through Québec in general, I just haven't eaten at the right places. Montréal is indeed a world-class city, although I'd have said its gastronomic temples are more French than Quebeçois.

I guess I really do need to rethink this sophistication in simplicity thing. For instance, where does poutine fit in to that rubric?

I took a look at Ghyslain's menu, but they don't seem to have any poutine. This French-Canadian sophistication failure really disturbs me.

But then! Look at their menu! They've got Bruschetta, Croissants, Panini - a Croque Monsieur Panini! They've got French Dip, Focaccia, an Italian Baguette, Indian stuff! Chicken Curry Naan. There's Scottish Smoked Salmon, Quiche Lorraine, Greek Quiche.

I'll be damned. French-Canadian cuisine is a lot more varied than I ever dreamed it was.

Chicken potpie is fine, but I'm waiting for tourtiere to be on the menu.

Sophisticated, in this case, means lots of Botox among the clientele.

Sophisticated, in this case, means lots of Botox among the clientele.

If a confiserie and wine offerings raise the sophistication bar, then I agree. They also package carryout pastrys more nicely..........Ghyslain has my vote over Panera and I'm willing to reward them the extra buck or two as well.

A menu that features Panini and Bruschetta along with Croissants and Croque Monsieur. Is it a bistro,is it an osteria, is it a candy, is it a breath mint? I don't believe that any business (especially a restaurant) can be all things to all people and that's the impression I get from the "varied" menu at Ghyslain. Do one thing, and do it well. No business can do it all

As a lover of all things Québécois, I immediately jumped into excitement after reading about a chef here with roots in Québec who apparently has a good restaurant... without further reading/comprehending much.

Naturally, I jumped on his website to view the menu... and sadly, I was disappointed. Not that I don't think he is a good chef... far from it, I'm sure he's excellent especially from what I've heard. The menu itself did not seem to reflect on his heritage at all, though, with a more... variously geographical menu.

Maybe one day there will be a popular restaurant where one can enjoy varieties of poutine, râpure, tourtiere, cipate, cretons, sugar pie, smoked meat, creme a la sucre, montréal-style bagels, soupe aux pois, cendrillon, etc. etc.

[Robin Garr]

The menu itself did not seem to reflect on his heritage at all, though, with a more... variously geographical menu.

To be honest, this is the thing that puzzled me the most about the CJ's review, with its emphasis on French-Canadian (Quebeçois?) cooking and country French - nice stuff, but my recollection of the bill of fare and its presentation just didn't support that. I was ready to head back to Nulu to celebrate this welcome change, but ... I guess not.

"all this time when I've gauged Ghyslain as a slightly more pretentious variation on Panera,"

*lol* I didn't read everything, because as soon as I saw this line I had to comment! That is EXACTLY what I was thinking when I brought home carry out from Ghyslain for the first time.

I do like Panera, and from what I've had, Ghyslain, so, it's not an insult (imo) but perhaps not the highest praise, either.