Restaurants with good selection of organic wines?

[Robin Garr]

Responding to a question, I'm trying to figure out which local eateries offer a decent selection of organic/biodynamic/low-sulfite/etc wines on their list. Frankly, although I don't mind these wines in principle, it's not really one of the criteria I look for, so I haven't really noticed.

I don't believe Roots / Heart & Soy has wine at all ... but where would be a good place for a person who cares about this to find a few options on the list?

There was a good article in the New York Times this week about how the "organic" label for wines can actually pretty misleading: http://www.nytimes.com/2012/08/04/dinin ... wanted=all

“No worries,” you say, “I drink organic wine.” Think again. It is true that organic grapes are farmed without recourse to chemical fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides and the like. But that doesn’t mean there aren’t any additives in organic wine.

Just like their conventional counterparts, organic producers can add acids, tannins and other correctives to adjust for perceived flaws. They can clarify and filter the wines. And, in the European Union, they can add sulfur dioxide, a preservative, so that the wines can sit for years on supermarket shelves.

“Organic doesn’t mean natural,” said Olivier Camus, a restaurateur and wine merchant in Paris who champions the cause of noninterventionist winemaking.

To answer your question, though, the Blind Pig is only restaurant in town that I can remember making a distinction on its list as far as organic, biodynamic, etc.

I have stayed out of this convo (I seem to recall seeing the original post looking for sulfite free wines here) because the whole sulfite "controversy" really gets my hackles up. But...

There's a couple of points worth making here though.

1) the only documented health concerns that have a direct correlation to sulfites in wine are for a specific (and small) segment of asthmatics. Headaches, etc. all the other concerns I hear on a regular basis at the wine shop have not been identified as having anything to do with sulfites in wine. Here's my "I'm an angry wine guy" answer: "Oh, you got a headache from your wine? How much wine did you drink? Is it possible that might have had something to do with it?"

2) the sulfites that are in wine are there for 2 reasons: one, because there are some sulfties that are a natural byproduct of fermentation, and two, you probably wouldn't drink much wine if sulfites weren't added to stabilize the wine for shipping and storage at room temperature. If your preference is vinegar, then go ahead and push for sulfite-free wines. Here's a good primer on the subject: http://www.thekitchn.com/sulfites-in-wi ... -or-100878

3) Very few wines qualify for the little USDA organic stamp because of their restrictive stance on sulfites (and in other areas). Many wines are produced from organic grapes (you will sometimes see "made from organic grapes" on the label of wines that do not otherwise bear the USDA organic stamp) or otherwise sustainably grown grapes. If a wine is aged in barrels that do not meet the USDA organic standards, then it does not get the stamp. I could go on, as there is a host of other qualifications that keep wines produced from organically grown grapes from getting that little label. Also, "organic" standards are not the only sustainable method of producing wine and growing grapes. The biodynamic set of guidelines is actually more strict that most "organic" guidelines. Further, there are other practices that can be put in place to increase the "sustainable" manufacturing practices, like using stelvin closures, or changing the shape and weight of the bottles. New Zealand's entire wine industry is making a huge push towards such practices. Further, there are many, many European wines with grapes grown by sustainable methods that don't get labelled as such. You see "Old vines" or "Vieille Vigne" on a label? How do you think that farmer maintained those vines for 50+ years without sustainable growing methods?

4) I didn't click over and read the Times article Joel links to, but the "natural" and "noninterventionist" methods discussed in the quote are kind of a hot trend in wine right now, at least in other markets (sadly one can hardly find these great wines here in Louisville), though they have existed for some time. I hate to send anyone to a competitor, but right now, if you are interested in a remarkable wine that was made by one of the more celebrated "Natural" winemakers, that also is a lower sulfite wine (no added sulfurs during the winemaking process, and actually a wine that I think only has sulfur dioxide added in minimal quantities at bottling to the export stock) go to the Party Mart Express closeout store on Shelbyville Rd and grab a bottle of the LaPierre Morgon. In addition to being a lower sulfite wine, it's also a natural wine (made with very non-interventionist methods, etc.) from an outstanding vintage ('07 was a killer for cru class Beaujolais), and a steal at the $14 price they have it at.

[Robin Garr]

Good responses, Ken. I'm with you at least 99.44% on all this.

One point, though ...

Here's a good primer on the subject: http://www.thekitchn.com/sulfites-in-wi ... -or-100878

Here's one from a little closer to home.
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvis ... 0901.phtml

Meanwhile, I'm still looking for local restaurants that make a virtue out of wines labeled organic, natural or low-sulfite ... if any. Anyone?

Meanwhile, I'm still looking for local restaurants that make a virtue out of wines labeled organic, natural or low-sulfite ... if any. Anyone?

Like I said before, the Blind Pig is the only restaurant I know of in Louisville that designates whether wines are sustainable, organic, biodynamic, or estate grown on their wine list

[Robin Garr]

Like I said before, the Blind Pig is the only restaurant I know of in Louisville that designates whether wines are sustainable, organic, biodynamic, or estate grown on their wine list

Thanks, Joel. I didn't mean to slight your good advice.

No worries!