Seviche: The Proper Application of Heat

I don't get around much anymore, so when I dine out I like to make it count. I'd been meaning to get into Seviche to see the new renovations and so went last Monday.

This had to be one of the most memorable meals I've had. Spot on!

The Facillity- Beautiful. Earth-tones were highlighted by a number of textures and properly-spaced lighting. I really enjoyed the Octopii fixtures above the bar and in the entryway (Swann's work?) At one moment we were listening to Spanish guitar, the next it was the Eagles. Everything worked together to give the diner the feeling of an upscale Latin experience. I also liked the wall-of-house-pickled things. It kinda had this nod back to the humble roots of all the world's great cuisines.

Service- Matthew exemplified the lost art of service- he easilly earned the title of 'captain.' Knoweledgable and adaptable- he was there when you needed him, wasn't when you didn't. All of the touches were hit, including the folding and presenting of napkins when we went to the bathroom.

Beverage- This is a great program. Ok, so if you name a drink after a Clash song, 'London Calling,' I'm going to order it out of principle. That was my mistake- I had come from a Bombay Saphire East Cocktail Lab earlier in the day. I had gin on my mind but not on my palate. A nice Burgundy with Dinner. A late Harvest Riesling paired brilliantly with the tang of a Passion Fruit Mousse. The Barkeep was even kind enough to sell me half a dram of the Balvenie Doublewood as a parting tipple. We had an entertaining conversation about Fernet Branca, too.

Cuisine- I feel that if you don't learn something new every time you eat a great chef's food, you're doing it wrong. The Crab Seviche was simply kissed with the acid, making the crab all the sweeter. The swordfish, which I haven't had in years, was happily ordered (guilt-free) knowing Chef's reputation for sustainable seafood. The Passion Fruit Mousse was a fun little punch in the mouth.

And generally with the proper application of heat, drawing the flavor experience out and making one anticipate the next bite. Not once did I feel burned, indeed the sugars became sweeter, the acids more vibrant. Almost better than salt!

Now that I think about it, the whole experience was just that- A proper application of heat.

We just went there last night. Lots of great food, much of hit properly-spicy, as you said. Green onion soup and seafood "moqueca" stew were very spicy and very good. Also fantastic: sweetbread with some kind of meaty sauce that had a heavy "umumi" flavor. And then my wife got the whole catfish, which was so good--so much more tender than a catfish filet.

Who else in Kentucky (anywhere?) is serving whole, head-on catfish other than Anthony? I wish more chefs would follow Anthony's lead, really turn themselves loose in the kitchen, follow their whims, and quit trying to please everyone. If a customer wants a grilled chicken-breast, or if they want their fish filleted and then ruined with a bland sweet sauce, there's plenty of chain restaurants that serve such things. I believe that chef-run, independent restaurants will be more likely to thrive if they focus their attentions on great food instead of trying to anticipate customer demographics.