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Behind the Green Door

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Shane Campbell

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Behind the Green Door

by Shane Campbell » Thu Feb 23, 2012 11:57 pm

I saw behind the Green Door today. No not that movie!
I had no reservation, didn't even know the meal fee.
Seeking foodie salvation within ivory snow chambers
Or at least red skin potato salad, tri-tip sirloin sliced on the bias....and a gooey brownie.

I was in Corydon today unexpectedly and I asked several people about it's newest restaurant. The opinions were so polarized I had to check it out for myself. As I walked to my car, a couple I know were returning with their take out lunches. I proclaimed that I was going to the Green Door. They said “Good luck, you do have a reservation?” No.

Wow, this could be interesting I thought. It was already a little after 1:00 and most places close at 2:00. Oh well, it couldn't hurt to try.

I walked in and was greeted pleasantly by a server. I approached the counter at the back of the small dining room and asked a person dressed in kitchen whites if they had enough food and time to feed me. The same server who had greeted me came up and said of course, looking a little surprised by my question. I said that their posted hours were until 1:30 but that I would eat quickly. “No problem,” he said, “just have a seat right over there.”

I moved to the table indicated, passing two well-dressed women lingering over coffee with take away boxes beside them. One was wearing sporty ear rings. The other occupants included a woman by herself near the wall studying something I couldn't see (probably “Words with Friends” on her phone). Seated at the table to the right of the front door were three young women leaning in towards each other chatting excitedly. Finally, at the table nearest me, were three men well into middle age, dressed business casual just settling their check and confirming next week's rendezvous. I sat down and surveyed the room.

It was a small but comfortable room with a dozen or so tables covered in white table clothes. It had tall ceilings and an exposed brick wall which seems obligatory these days but pleasant none the less. Floor to ceiling windows looked out over the busy street at the town's oldest drug store. Butt Drugs, I kid you not. I've met the Butts and they are stellar people. Bright sunlight streamed through the windows and warmed my back. They may need serious shades in the summer.

The server came over and described the “Deli themed” menu for the day. I said it sounded delicious. He agreed and went off to bring me my first course. When he brought my potato salad it looked like it had been prepped for Fine Dining magazine – ready for photographing. We exchanged names, he was Joe, and I complemented him on the place. He described the diner that had previously occupied this location for over 60 years. He listed a few improvements that were still planned, then moved off to help the giggling threesome by the door.

I had just finished the first course and was wishing that I'd been provided a knife so that I could scrape the potato salad residue from the top of the lettuce leaf. Should I just eat the damn thing and be done with it. No, I would display good manners and leave it. Unless, I was expected to eat it, then they would think I was a philistine. Before I could solve this dilemma, Joe swept by and grabbed my plate, lettuce uneaten. Oh well, I was leaning towards not eating it anyway.

The two well heeled ladies were walking out with their take out boxes. I looked up and made eye contact with the nearest one. She was “sporty ear rings” and was close enough that I could smell her perfume. I spoke to her asking if the food was good and if I should stay for the rest. She assured me that the food was great and that I should definitely stay!

The next course was the main event. This was a roast beef sandwich made with thinly sliced sirloin, seared, basted, and roasted to perfection (according to the menu). It was on lightly toasted bread with lettuce and a horseradish cream. I was going to eat this lettuce and I even had a knife! I didn't notice until later that the menu description said that it would be on Pam's house-made challah bread and would have melted swish (sic) cheese. I don't know what challah bread is, but this looked just like plain white bread to me. Also there was no cheese, swish, swiss, or otherwise.

I have to say, the steak had a marvelously soft texture and there was plenty on the sandwich. I only wish I had taken it from between the bread and consumed it by itself. Even though the horseradish sauce was very mild, I think it, the bread which was a little soggy inside, and the lettuce masked much of the meat's beautiful flavor. The fried mac n cheese was actually the mack daddy! I've had many mac n cheese variations over the last couple of years. Including mac n cheese with lobster, shrimp, duck, and even the fried mac n cheese at Lynn's Paradise Cafe. Some of these have been disappointing with Lynn's being so dry, dense, and lacking in flavor, that it was left uneaten on my plate. This was moist, cheesy, and the crusty casserole-like topping was the perfect counterpoint. Mix in some salty, shredded, country ham and I would happily eat a whole plate of it as the entree. The dessert was a large gooey brownie. This also didn't match the description on the menu. It was indeed a brownie and it was a bit gooey but if what was drizzled under the brownie was bacon, salt caramel, and coffee the bacon and coffee flavors were too subtle for me to detect. The brownie was nice and warm and actually too large for me to finish, though I doubt the typical customer will complain.

I was offered coffee which I declined and the head chef Jesse Badger came over and asked me how it was. We had a nice conversation about the tri-tip sirloin procured locally from Blue Spring Hollow Farm. After hearing how much effort went into preparing this meat, I was doubly bummed that I hadn't eaten it sans bread. Don't get me wrong, this was a very good sandwich and I ate every morsel. I just think that steak was too good to be diluted with sandwich fixings.

I really enjoyed the meal, the surroundings, the service, and talking with Joe and Jesse. IMO, The Green Door is the best meal available in Corydon and I will have lunch there as often as possible.
I'm a bitter drinker....I just prefer it that way
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Shawn Vest

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Re: Behind the Green Door

by Shawn Vest » Fri Feb 24, 2012 12:51 pm

Very nice, as usual a highlight on HotBytes

and hope to see you next week for the BBC tasting at the CPC

Shawn
Without question, the greatest invention in the history of mankind is beer. Oh, I grant you that the wheel was also a fine invention, but the wheel does not go nearly as well with pizza. D Barry
www.ctownpizzaco.com
850 MAIN 812-256-2699
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Brian Curl

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Re: Behind the Green Door

by Brian Curl » Fri Feb 24, 2012 8:12 pm

Shane, I heard you set your on price at this place with a donation. Was that awkward or how did it go?
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Shane Campbell

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Re: Behind the Green Door

by Shane Campbell » Fri Feb 24, 2012 10:57 pm

Brian Curl wrote:Shane, I heard you set your on price at this place with a donation. Was that awkward or how did it go?


I admit I was concerned about this aspect of the meal. I decided that I would literally estimate what I would likely pay at a similar restaurant. I estimated the potato salad starter at $2.50, the main course sandwich with mac and cheese at $10.00, the brownie dessert at $2.50 and the unsweetened tea at $1.50. Total of $16.50 so I left $20.00 and worried that I'd underpaid. I really would have been more comfortable if they had just provided a bill. It is an awkward situation.
I'm a bitter drinker....I just prefer it that way
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Roger A. Baylor

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Re: Behind the Green Door

by Roger A. Baylor » Sun Feb 26, 2012 5:21 pm

Great report Shane, thanks. We're talking with them about doing a beer dinner soon, so stay tuned.
Roger A. Baylor
Beer Director at Pints&union (New Albany)
Digital Editor at Food & Dining Magazine
New Albany, Indiana
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Jackie R.

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Re: Behind the Green Door

by Jackie R. » Tue Feb 28, 2012 12:00 am

I can't think of anything I would have rather read on here, Shane. Excellent report!

Btw, (referencing your Butt Drugs comment) I went to grammar school with a kid who's last name was Butt, and his girlfriend's name was Anita. Naturally, we all snickered about how funny it would be if they got married. But that doesn't trump the other friend of mine with the name Anita who married a guy who's last name was Blunt. Coolest. Name. Ever.

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