by Ryan Rogers » Mon Jan 02, 2012 11:31 am
All great restaurants have a finite amount of time that they can exist. Le Cirque and Lutece comes to mind in NYC and more recently El Bulli in Spain, even though El Bulli went out somewhere near the top they were beginning to become out paced by the younger generation, many of which they'd had a hand in training; like Rene Redzepi at NOMA.
I can think of only a few other restaurants from the 80's that are of that caliber that have continued to stay relevant. Le Bernadin in NYC that had the fortune of hiring Eric Ripert who took the reins after Guy Le Coze's death in '94 and Topolobampo in Chicago which has benefited from Rick Bayless' reinventions, expansions, and all around awesomeness.
Keller didn't take over the French Laundry until '94 and in comparison to some of the newer restaurants his staple dishes (salmon cornet & oysters and pearls), albeit spectacular are becoming somewhat dated.
This all being said I've read most of Charlie Trotter's books and am very much inspired by his drive and ambition. I hope I can make a pilgrimage before they close the doors.
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