El Ranchero is now open at the Hikes Lane location formerly occupied by El Rey. A little brighter and much cleaner than the previous tenant, El Ranchero offers standard Mexican fare, but upgraded – in some cases, considerably. Case in point: the Nacho Grande ($5.50 and good app for 4 or meal for 1) includes the regular stuff plus green onions and black olives and, rather than the soupy cheese sauce you get many places, has significant amounts of real cheese’ which helps the chips stay crunchy longer.
Another highlight from a recent visit was the Tostadas de Ceviche ($3.50) – a 5” – 6” crunchy tortilla described in the menus as “topped with a fish and shrimp salad mix with onions, jalapenos and cilantro, marinated in lemon juice.” Outstanding. It reminded me a little of a similar tostada at the late, great Perla de Pacifica (although that one was a little larger and heavier, with mayonnaise or something). This treat has a ton of stuff piled on but is light, crisp, fresh and delicious.
Finally, but certainly not least, is the queso ($5.50), a mixture of melted “American and Mexican cheese,” with chunks of red and green peppers throughout, served in an almost full soup bowl. Although a routine dish at many Mexican places around here, El Ranchero’s stands above the crowd with more flavor and some late-arriving heat. Queso fans should love this version.
The interior is a little better than before, but nothing great. Everything was fresh and served with prompt attention. All in all, the food in this place is several cuts above the El Nopals/Los Aztecas/El Tarrascos of the world. I’m not ready to put it up with La Rosita overall just yet, but some of its dishes are certainly on par with it.