by Andrew Mellman » Sun Oct 30, 2011 7:10 pm
maybe time for my annual rant . . .
1. Frozen name-brand turkeys are a breed called "Broad Breasted White", developed for mainstream American tastes favoring blander less gamy white meat. Nothing against fresh heritage breeds, but realize going in that you will have more of a wild, strong flavor, and much less white meat. If you like that, great, but if you have kids or people used to the milder white meat coming you may have disappointed guests.
2. Under USDA rules, a turkey can be labeled "fresh" if it's been sitting in ice for less than 13-16 weeks (don't remember exact timing). Be absolutely sure that wherever you buy it, it's been slaughtered and cleaned within 24-36 hours. The reason many fresh turkeys "taste better" is that bacteria have been working on the birds. Unlike beef - in which the bacteria stay on the outside and help to tenderize and concentrate flavor - in poultry the bacteria run throughout the bird. In other words, you either have to cook the birds to the USDA recommended temperatures (at which point the white meat that there is will be WAY overcooked) or please keep kids and the elderly away from the meat, as these bacteria are not benign. Sure, it will taste great, but the risk of illness is very real.
3. To have any degree of juiciness whatsoever you must brine heritage birds. Nothing wrong with that, but it's extra work on a day when likely there is a great deal to do. The whole point of major brands injecting birds with a saline solution (with or without added fats) is so you get the benefits of brining without having to go through the work. If you want to, great!
4. Almost every brand of frozen turkeys is frozen solid within 2-3 hours of slaughter. The bacteria counts are negligible. There is a ton of white meat (which most people still want). There is no gamy taste or flavor. You don't have to brine it in the middle of everything. In fact, you will find that - of the major turkey growers in the country (the big farms) - not a single employee will be cooking a fresh turkey for Thanksgiving.
If you really want a "fresh" heritage, please go for it. Just please be careful! Know your grower, know when the bird was slaughtered. Be sure your company will appreciate the different flavor, texture, et al!
Andrew Mellman