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Robin Garr

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Discussion of Marsha's Industry Standard: To your every whim

by Robin Garr » Wed Oct 26, 2011 4:51 pm

Industry Standard: Insider info for those who dine out

To your every whim

By Marsha Lynch

I recently joined the catering division where I work, so catering has been very much on my mind lately. The Oxford English and American dictionaries define catering a few different ways: to provide food and drink at a social event or other gathering; to provide what is needed or required; to take into account or make allowances for; to try to satisfy (a need or demand).

I find that all of these definitions apply to my job on a daily basis.

Catering is, frankly, among the most challenging work in the food service industry. It’s a multi-faceted gig. It’s not about opening a brick-and-mortar location and getting guests to fill the seats — it’s so much more. It’s about building a reputation. It’s about logistics, rental agreements, contracts, proposal menus, tasting appointments and also about how to best deliver your food in an off-site location. It requires the utmost professionalism and a healthy dose of MacGyver-like creativity.

Before the first diced onion hits a sizzling pan of oil, a dozen things have to coalesce like a Mahler symphony. First, the organization must market itself and sell the business. Then the company has to decipher the needs of the client.

Peripheral things come into play that have little to do with food. What color, how many and what size tablecloths and napkins will be needed. For that matter, how many tables will be needed? What kind of glassware, china and silverware is required and appropriate? How many servers will need to be hired? Do we need a bartender? If so, there is liquor to procure — and all that goes along with a bar: garnish fruit, bevnaps, stir sticks, cocktail shakers, licensing and more.

Is there a theme for which special decorations may need to be purchased or plucked from crowded storage spaces? Do we need flowers, balloons, boughs of holly or vines of ivy? Place cards, menu boards, salt and pepper shakers, bread plates, butter ramekins, chafing dishes, sterno units … the list is endless.

Clients typically have an example menu to choose from — or (more often) we craft one to their needs and wants. A groom might be vegetarian, and his bride-to-be might be a meat-and-potatoes woman. Perhaps they have relatives who keep kosher. Important guests may be gluten- or lactose-intolerant. Children in the party may have tree-nut or peanut allergies. All of these must be taken into account.

Once the menu is decided (often after a tasting session), a logistical plan is drawn up. Distance to the venue is a crucial element of the plan. For instance, it’s just not feasible to fry menu items and transport them dozens of miles away after cooking. They may have to be fried on site in order to maintain their crispy integrity, and if so, we’ll need portable turkey-fryer burners. Is there refrigeration where we’re going? Oftentimes, probably not enough to house every culinary element we’ll need to keep refrigerated, so we might need to rent a refrigerated truck or van. Gloves, aprons, towels, mats to keep spills from your garage floor, refuse containers and plastic bags to go in them. Platters to pass appetizers on. Dozens of bottles of water to keep the crew hydrated.

Afterward, receiving payment is nice, but the compliments we get are the real payoff. “This was amazing!” “Thank you so much for a great job!” These are the rewards of catering.

Then, there’s the aftermath, which (ideally) no client has to see. The reloading of the trucks and vans. The long slog home with the dirty dishes and pans. Pulling up to your place of business, dog-tired, with many miles to go before you sleep. Stuff has to be washed, dried and put away in their proper places. Rental items have to be bundled up for return or pickup. Trash has to be emptied. Kitchen floors must be swept and mopped … sometimes in the wee hours of the morning. Legs, feet and backs ache. Crewmembers are hungry — they haven’t eaten in hours. Another job is on the horizon first thing tomorrow morning.

Inevitably, catering is grueling work, but it’s also rewarding. We love what we do, and we love making our clients happy.

If they do a good job, love your catering company! And tell everyone you know.

Marsha Lynch has worked at many Louisville independent restaurants including Limestone, Jack Fry’s, Jarfi’s, L&N Wine Bar and Bistro and Café Lou Lou. She now works for her alma mater, Sullivan University, as sous chef of Juleps Catering.

Read it on LouisvilleHotBytes:
http://www.louisvillehotbytes.com/to-your-every-whim
and in LEO Weekly:
http://leoweekly.com/dining/industry-st ... ine-out-33
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Alison Hanover

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Re: Discussion of Marsha's Industry Standard: To your every

by Alison Hanover » Wed Oct 26, 2011 5:01 pm

Nice article Marsha, it made me exhausted just reading it. :D
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Mark R.

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Re: Discussion of Marsha's Industry Standard: To your every

by Mark R. » Wed Oct 26, 2011 5:21 pm

Very nice read! Congratulations on your new job I'm sure you will help maintain high standards for anything we've ever had Juleps cater for us. The article certainly highlights many things that lot of people don't realize happens behind the scenes during an event.
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Re: Discussion of Marsha's Industry Standard: To your every

by Tim Y » Wed Oct 26, 2011 6:06 pm

The logistics can be a nightmare for any off-premise event. Then there are the VIP attendees. I fed George Bush and others (300) 15 years ago. The secret service had to come to the country club and watch the food being prepared and were "getting in the way" for 2 days!!!! Then there is the Rabbi for kosher events who has to "purge with fire", all utensils and whatnot. Catering is not fun, but good luck in your new venture.
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Re: Discussion of Marsha's Industry Standard: To your every

by Mark F » Wed Oct 26, 2011 11:41 pm

I love this article, as it also made my back ache and my feet hurt. I did an eight course tasting menu for twelve people a couple weeks ago; it was me and one other chef. Fifteen hours and all the things Marsha listed you need later; I was begging to expo or even work the line for the rest of my life. Cheers to you Marsha.
I’ll regret this tomorrow…
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Re: Discussion of Marsha's Industry Standard: To your every

by GaryF » Thu Oct 27, 2011 2:29 am

Wonderful article Marsha, brought back the years I owned a catering company in NY. The one thing you didn't mention though was how the caterer must also be a therapist, figuring out who is really in charge and calming nerves.
I often told the clients they could be as nervous and crazy as they needed until the day of the event then that job reverted to me. It seemed to work well on the mothers of brides.
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Re: Discussion of Marsha's Industry Standard: To your every

by Dan Thomas » Thu Oct 27, 2011 5:48 am

I couldn't have put it any better myself. The travel time for food is the hardest thing to get people to understand. People just assume it's like getting take out from a restaurant. I put together the sample menu for my catering operation with this in mind and try to steer people toards certain items depending on how far out they are. You don't realize how big Jefferson County is until you have to haul food out to the far ends of Dixie HWY and then travel to Lake Forest or Tom Sawyer Park trying to be on time with hot food.
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Re: Discussion of Marsha's Industry Standard: To your every

by RonnieD » Thu Oct 27, 2011 9:58 am

For years when I was with Bistro 535 in Shelbyville, we catered the Shelby County Horse Show. For one week we took over a horse barn that had been used for storage and attempted to convert it into a make-shift kitchen to prepare a gourmet banquet line, from stuffed artichoke hearts and meatballs to filets and salmon. We referred to this situation as "Vietnam" (no disrespect intended, but conditions were rough by kitchen standards). I have "fond" memories of sterno burns, washing dishes in 5 gallon buckets while standing ankle deep in mud, slipping and falling out of the refrigerated truck while carrying a tray of lemon chicken breasts, and blissfully passing out behind the bar barn only to be awoken around 4 am by security ("hey, aren't you the kitchen staff? You can't sleep here, buddy.")

After that week, we were all ready to return to our safe, comfortable line, twelve tables in the weeds, and quickly running out of the night's special.

Marsha's article perfectly captures the mania that is the catering side of our business. Kudos to those that make it their living and execute at a high level.
Ronnie Dingman
Chef Consultant
The Farm
La Center, KY

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